brettleasure

so i managed to actually change the cps myself. it took me a while to find the darn thing and the mounting screw. i'd say the hardest part was arranging the ratchet extensions in the right configuration.

anyway, i got it done and it seemed to have work. it started every time, with ease, but it did die once after it had been idling in park for about 10 min. since then, no issues. took it for a drive and it was fine the whole time. i'll check it tomorrow; god i hope this was the last obstacle.

Yidney

Hopefully it works, but dying even once while idling is not normal.

brettleasure

went to try it out this morning; same issues came back. no starts a few times, then starts right up. it didn't die on me this time, but i may not have given it enough time. though one time it did turn over, and immediately die.

any ideas? was the cps i put in bad? frustration is kicking in hard for me today.

Rudeney

The new CPS could be bad. If it's an eBay or Amazon part, even though sold as "Bosch", they can be cheap Chinese crap. But before throwing more parts at it, I'd check codes. Even if the MIL is not illuminated, you might have something stored. Oh, and you need SDS or an MBZ-specific scan tool to check all the systems beyond the ECU. For example, a bad EIS can cause this.

Yidney

Yeah, I think you need to bite the bullet and take it someplace that has the MB diagnostic system. I think you have some intermittent electrical fault rather than a fuel issue. Something like a failing EIS as Rodney suggested.

brettleasure

for sure, i was planning to do that here real soon. also, pardon my ignorance, but what is an EIS?

btw, started everytime since then, ran fine, hasn't died

brettleasure

i took a video of the symptoms, but it wouldn't allow me to upload. it's an mp4, 188mbp, so not sure if it's to big or what....

but, i did take some pictures of the cps replacement. lucky for me, my hands/arms just barely fit. there is a noticeable oil leak very near this location which we'll have addressed in the future as well.

you can see the old part on the left, the new one on the right. believe it or not, i got this part at a local autozone, looks identical and even has the same script, including mb logo on it. you can also see how i had to rig up the ratchet to reach the darn screw. i didn't have much room to turn it, but luckily it only required a 1/4 turn to break the screw loose and from there i could get it by hand. by the way, a telescoping mirror is a must!

brettleasure

eis - electronic ignition system, i take it. looks like the unit the key goes into. provided that's the culprit, because it's still having the no start symptoms, is this something i can replace?

Yidney

What brand did the CPS you got at Autozone say it was on the box? Also, looking at your photos of the connector, it looks like your lever may have broken off as a I warned it might in a post above. Did it click on when you put it back on? Can you just pull it off again without squeezing anything? If so, you really need to get a new connector. It will wiggle free with time and your car will stop dead wherever it does. Also, interesting that you used a male torx bit. I thought those bolts were all the opposite so that you need an E-torx to remove them. I wonder if somebody replaced that sensor before.

The oil leak may just be the cam plugs - the round caps near the top of the head.

As for the EIS, I'm pretty sure it needs to be coded, so I think it may be a dealer only thing, but Rodney will know for sure.

brettleasure

i'll check the box when i get home. and yes, you're exactly right, a very small part of the connector did snap off as it was really dry/brittle. i did just plug it in without it clicking, but it still felt fairly firm. i was thinking that it will be ok because it's fairly stationary and i don't expect it to wiggle free, but maybe some tape will help? that connector seems like a bigger pita to change, but i will if i have to.

and yes, i believe it was an e27 bit if i remember correctly. it seemed pretty clean looking now that i remember it.

and yeah, the cam plugs sound familiar. i had the car coded out a few weeks ago at autohaus in scottsdale, but can't find that readout for the life of me.

Yidney

If it was an E-Torx "bit", then what is that a picture of, which clearly is not an E-Torx socket?

As for the code readout, what does that have to do with leaking cam plugs? Cam plugs leak because a rubber o-ring gets old. It's never going to store a code.

But if you got the car "coded out," what codes did they read? Did you get a printout?

As for the new connector, it is more of a pain than the sensor itself, but not a lot more. The key is releasing the wires where they are bundled with others so you can get the connector up on top of the head so you have room to work. I posted pics a couple weeks ago. Will it stay in place w/o a clip? Maybe. Maybe not. But the odds that I would leave it that way on my wife or fiance's car so that she can be the one to find out are exactly zero.

Yidney

Now i see you are saying you cannot find the printout. Call and see if they have a copy. They probably stored it electronically.

Rudeney

EIS = Electronic Ignition Switch, and yes, it has to be coded, and no, you cannot install a used one. It and the instrument cluster store the odometer mileage. When you replace one of the two, you have to use SDS to copy the mileage from the other. And this can only be done with a new, virgin part (or, a part that has had some very unofficial low-level EEPROM reprogramming to make it virgin).

brettleasure

much appreciated fellas, seriously....

so, i'm wondering if this is actually temperature related. it seems to have most issues when it's cooler outside, and as such, this morning was cooler than recently and it still had some no-starts, along with it dying on her a couple times. so she's driving my vehicle now and i'll see if i can get this thing back to autohaus, if it will make it.

i seem to remember reading somewhere that the eis sometimes acts this way because of bad solder joints or something; worse when cold, fires up when it's warm. does that make sense rodney?

brettleasure

*rant/vent*

i'm starting to get to the point where i feel overwhelmed with this car. not only do i have to worry about this starting/dying issue, but it has at least the one oil leak, needs struts for the hood, the trunk partition, and now the suspension is creaking loud as ****. we were quoted by one shop about 1900 to do the front and back suspension, assuming that's all it is. not to mention the laundry list of cosmetic issues to deal with. she loves the car and wants to keep it, but i'm leaning toward the contrary. am i over reacting, or is this to be expected?

JimVonBaden

Yup, my Amazon "Bosch" CPS was definitely bad. Frustrating when you swap a bad part for a bad part. It cost me $405 in towing.

brettleasure

ran over to autohaus on my lunch break to make an appt. he was saying that it might indeed be the eis or something similar. btw, i just put two new batteries in the fob, no change.

Yidney

You have not said how many miles are on the car. Stabilus brand hood and trunk struts are OEM, but half the price. Get them from Pelican parts or similar place. On the difficulty scale, replacing those is about the same as eating nachos. If the oil leak is the cam plug, that is as easy or even easier, and even cheaper. Won't cost you $100 to do all three of those jobs.

As for your actual suspension, that is somewhat mileage dependent, but unless the car has a ton of miles, rebuilding the whole front and rear suspension is probably BS. Especially the rear. If I had a creak, and somebody's solution was to rebuild the whole suspension with no more specifics as to actual issues, I would never go back to that person. Although a number of things can cause creaks, at least potentially, on these cars creaks in the front are usually sway bar bushings, and in the rear it's sway bar end links. The front bushings can often be lubed (I started a whole thread on it) and the rear end links will set you back about $60, and as a DIY are slightly more difficult, maybe like eating nachos with chopsticks. But not hard.

That is not to say that you don't have other issues, but suspensions are not rocket science. Put the car on ramps and grab a flashlight. We can walk you through it, but you are pretty much looking for cracked or torn rubber bushings. If you can swap a CPS, you can do that. Even if you don't want to DIY, it will help you from being ripped off.

I have had my car for 6 and half years, and still think of it as my new car. I have no intention of getting rid if it any time soon, and it has nothing to do with affording something else. It's a great engine and transmission in a relatively simple package as MBs go.

brettleasure

hey yidney, thanks for the encouragement. the car has 157k on it right now. i plan to take the car to autohaus on monday, possibly leave it overnight, so that they can get to the bottom of the situation. when i'd had it in there before i seem to remember them saying that at least one of the oil leaks is cam plug. when i was doing the cps, i used a paper towel to wipe away some of the black sludgy build-up behind there and i actually saw fresh oil, so if that's where the cam plugs are, that makes sense. is there a video/pics/tutorial on how to do that because i definitely can try. i have basic tools to do basic things, so if it's easy, im inclined to tackle it. and yeah, i know the hood and trunk partition struts are cheap and easy to replace. also, chris at autohaus seemed to think, based on my description, that the suspension creaking was ball joints. i've never done anything with suspension before, so if there's any videos/pics about this car particularly, i might try that as well.

the thing that is worrying me is that this might indeed be the eis and i was quoted like 800 bucks for that. rodney informed me that if it is this, it has to be a new unit. i've taken apart many dashes for audio installs, so i'm not afraid to tackle this if it can be done.

btw, issue still persists; no start, no turnover for 7 tries this morning. started on the 7th, and immediately died. then, started on the 8th and ran fine from there.

oh, and it's also discouraging when i look at the lower front fascia lip that was completely snapped in half by the towing company, which i've got taped up for the time being until they can get this fixed. it just all feels like alot right now.

Yidney

157k will definitely need a front suspension refresh if not already done. Could be ball joints creaking at those miles, but you would not replace ball joints. You replace all four control arms - only after determining they need it - because if they have been on there long enough for the ball joints to fail, the rubber bushings on the other end will be toast. All four in Lemforder (OEM) brand will cost you about $450 as a DIY. Then you need to look for leaking struts - obviously grimy oil on the outside.

Yeah, the cam plugs are in the back where you were reaching. Put your mirror back there. They are higher up - on the head - at the end of the cam shafts. They are just a round plug with an O-ring on them. Probably an easier job than hood struts.

brettleasure

right on; how many cam plugs are there total, and where you do recommend sourcing them? from the video i just watched, it seems really simple; pop out, pop in.

Yidney

Use your mirror on both sides and see which are leaking. There is a large and small one on the side where the CPS is. On the other side it its different. There is a larger round cover held on by 3 E-torx bolts - it's an oil centrifuge cover. Also pretty cheap, but see if it is actually leaking. Mine weeps a tiny bit, but not enough to bother with for now. And I think there is small cam plug on that side too. I have no source recommendations. They are not expensive so it you have a dealer nearby you can do that, or just order them online. Those are the sorts the things that I'd buy genuine MB and not some off brand product. Those you won't find at autozone I don't think.

brettleasure

dropped off at autohaus this morning. got a call just now saying that the issue is indeed the EIS system; $1000 to fix. i asked if this was something i could do and he advised against it. this is very frustrating considering they didn't find this the first 2 times it was in the shop. we're still paying off an alternator replacement, which firestone had replaced thinking it would fix the issue (it was the only/closest place open the car could be towed to near her work when the car wouldn't start at all).

are you guys aware of any other route to fixing the EIS that doesn't involve spending 1k? i'm so freaking frustrated with this car that i'm not even sure i want to keep it, but it'll be near impossible to sell/trade it in it's current condition.

Yidney

Yeah, too bad about the alternator experience. Firestone would not have a clue, and that never sounded like it was the issue. But what's done is done. I am not aware of a DIY EIS procedure. Physically installing it may not be a big deal - I've never done one - but it has to be coded. How much of the $1,000 is the part vs. the install and coding?

Not sure why they did not find it before if you took it in with the same symptoms. If it did have the same symptoms, what did they say it was?

As Rodney has said many times, they are great cars if you can DIY, but they can quickly cost significant money if you cannot. Older luxury cars are cheap for exactly this reason. There are certainly people on here with CLKs with more miles than yours, but still, your miles are getting up there. Not sure how long I'd hang onto mine if it had 157,000 miles. But at this rate that will not by until about 2035, in which case it may have to double as a casket.

brettleasure

right, what's done is done. and, it looks like we'll have to bite the bullet and have this done. i'll most likely have to get a credit card specifically for this (yes, i'm 36 and i have never had a cc, still have excellent credit!). i'm not a mechanic, but i'm handy and i can learn easily. we live in an appt complex and it's very difficult not having a place to work on a car. i'm sure it will be a good car for some time to come, i'm just not sure we're equipped to usher this car into it's latter years.

but for now, we'll have to get this fixed because there's no way we can trade it in with its current issues. i'll keep you guys posted. thanks for the help and encouragement thus far.