introvert2001

So the MB dealership said I needed the Caster Arm on my CLK 350 replaced. Fine but their charge is $773.56. What is a Caster Arm specifically because the lady at the dealership only sent me an email of estimates but didn't explain what this is exactly. After googling I am still confused. Are there any step by step directions that can tell me how to install this part myself and a recommended place where I can purchase it? Thanks!

sailorben

In the U.K., the lemfoerder parts are around £180 from a third party supplier. I believe the castor arm is the front lower control arm.

Fitting is easy enough, and shouldn't take more than an hour, provided you have the basic skills.

If I remember rightly, the castor arm requires the anti roll bar mount to be dropped in order to get access to enable the bolt to be removed, but even that's easy enough.

You'll just require a number of sockets, torx bits to prevent the ball joint from turning on tightening, and a torque wrench.

It's a fairly simple job, if looking at the part; you cant figure out what you need to do, then it might be worth considering getting an independent to fit it. I don't know US labour rates, but it shouldn't be more than an hour.

Rudeney

Your car's front suspension has two "control arms" on each side. I've never hear either of them called a "caster arm", but I suspect what they are talking about is the "torque strut", which is also called the "upper control arm". Here are the WIS docs for replacement of it, and the "cross strut'", a.k.a. lower control arm:

http://benzbits.com/w203/FrontAxleTorqueStrut.pdf
http://benzbits.com/w203/FrontAxleCrossStrut.pdf

mis3

As per my other post, I just had my front springs replaced a few days days.

The indie, who works in Mercedes, said that I would need the following replacements soon: front lower ball joints, caster arm complete, front links. I too have no idea of these parts.

Rudeney

It seems there are so many names for these suspension parts! The W209 has 6 basic front suspension parts:

Common failures include:

The first step in diagnosing a problem is visual and audible inspection. Look for cracked or leaking bushing on the Torque and Cross Struts, dry anti-sway bar bushing, or dry/leaking ball joints. Locate the exact source of any noise by using a mechanic's stethoscope while articulating the suspension. That is easier said than done, and requires lifting the car, then using an apparatus to articulate the suspension, such as another jack or helper with a long lever. Another option is to use a mechanic's electronic listening device with mics placed on the various suspension parts, then go on a test ride.

Once the parts are repaired, then get an alignment. If the car has not bee wrecked and you have new parts, it should only need a toe alignment. If it has been wrecked, you may need a camber adjustment, which requires special bolts in place of the standard ones at the Torque and/or Cross Strut frame bushings. If the Torque or Cross Struts have more than 60K miles, I'd replace them - the bushings will almost surely be compromised. The anti-sway bar bushings and links will mostly just create noise, with no other effects on handling or alignment, unless an en ling physically breaks loose. Unless bent, the McPherson Strut Cartridge has no effect on alignment.