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While servicing the transmission I drained the oil out of the pan and it didn't look red. The color is more of an amber when I tip the container. It is pretty dark, but defiantly not red.
The fluid I got from the dealership is red. The stuff I got is 236.14, and that is apparently the correct fluid.
Did MB factory use a different fluid than what is now recommended?
Any thoughts?
The magnets were a little crapped up, but no chunks. The oil does not smell burnt.
I have pulled dozens of transmission dip sticks and the fluid is either red or black (burnt).
That is normal. The MY2007 and earlier 722.9 transmissions will really dirty the oil. That's why it should be changed every 40K miles. The first photo below is the color difference in mine from the CLK500 at 40K miles. The next photo is the color of the fluid on the ML350 I bought with 118K (unknown if fluid was ever changed previously).
MY2007 CLK550 Transmission Fluid at 40K miles (right sample)
its fine as long as you don't have lots of metal shaving or disc particles your fine . What i did was I dropped the pan and changed the filter last year and added the amount of oil needed . Then 1 year later i just drained the oil from the tran pan and filled it up again . This is better than flushing and will clean your old oil out over time .
its fine as long as you don't have lots of metal shaving or disc particles your fine . What i did was I dropped the pan and changed the filter last year and added the amount of oil needed . Then 1 year later i just drained the oil from the tran pan and filled it up again . This is better than flushing and will clean your old oil out over time .
I have to disagree. It's best to change all the oil and filter. Doing these partial changes will never change all of the fluid. Of course with no torque converter drain, you do what you can. When I changed fluid on the ML350, I only swapped out about 5 quarts because I couldn't access the torque converter drain - the bell housing access port is on the wrong side! I plan to do a flush when I can (this is the kid's car so it stays with her in Atlanta).
I have to disagree. It's best to change all the oil and filter. Doing these partial changes will never change all of the fluid. Of course with no torque converter drain, you do what you can. When I changed fluid on the ML350, I only swapped out about 5 quarts because I couldn't access the torque converter drain - the bell housing access port is on the wrong side! I plan to do a flush when I can (this is the kid's car so it stays with her in Atlanta).
Well yes if you do have a drain plug its a different story but if you don't you will never be able to get all of it out . so it will always mix
If you do the flush procedure by disconnecting the cooling discharge line, you will get out as much as you would draining (with the torque converter drain). Following that procedure, you'll flush 3 quarts three times. Since the transmission holds 9 quarts, the flush changes it all. The problem is, you have to refill with 5 quarts after the pan drop, and then do a final level check, so you;re looking at needing abut 15-16 quarts of fluid to do this job.
If you do the flush procedure by disconnecting the cooling discharge line, you will get out as much as you would draining (with the torque converter drain). Following that procedure, you'll flush 3 quarts three times. Since the transmission holds 9 quarts, the flush changes it all. The problem is, you have to refill with 5 quarts after the pan drop, and then do a final level check, so you;re looking at needing abut 15-16 quarts of fluid to do this job.
Rudeney,
The indie here told me that he drains the oil from the pan first and then shift gears in d-r-n-p to completely flush it. Also he added some 236.11 oil (half a liter, always used 236.10 before) Should I go for a full flush with 236.14 since I have no error codes but shifting hesitations? I have done the oil change twice as the you guys always mention with original filter. Car is little more than 90K miles.
I'm doing a complete change and got 7 liters total out with the torque converter drained as well. I probably spilled half a liter in the process, plus what's in the filter maybe make 8 liters that I recovered.
So whatever is in the lines and cooler is what is left.
I am about to fill it up with new fluid. How much should I put in to start with? The whole 9 liters? I haven't got my I-carsoft yet, it's on the slow boat from China, so I am going to just get everything full of oil and wait to warm it up to do the final run up and level setting proceedure.
Now that I have the proper gear to do this proceedure It's a snap. I hacked a garden sprayer and installed a regulator on it. Drilled a hole and installed a tube fitting in the top of the sprayer.
Just fill with tranny fluid and pressureze to about 5 psi and it's a snap to fill. Got the adapter for the transmission pan at Amazon.ca. for like 12 bucks I think.
My car has esy access to the torque converter plug, so doing this every 40k will be easy.
I'm doing a complete change and got 7 liters total out with the torque converter drained as well. I probably spilled half a liter in the process, plus what's in the filter maybe make 8 liters that I recovered.
So whatever is in the lines and cooler is what is left.
I am about to fill it up with new fluid. How much should I put in to start with? The whole 9 liters? I haven't got my I-carsoft yet, it's on the slow boat from China, so I am going to just get everything full of oil and wait to warm it up to do the final run up and level setting proceedure.
Now that I have the proper gear to do this proceedure It's a snap. I hacked a garden sprayer and installed a regulator on it. Drilled a hole and installed a tube fitting in the top of the sprayer.
Just fill with tranny fluid and pressureze to about 5 psi and it's a snap to fill. Got the adapter for the transmission pan at Amazon.ca. for like 12 bucks I think.
My car has esy access to the torque converter plug, so doing this every 40k will be easy.
I'm curious why you bought the icarsoft from China and not from Amazon Canada just like the adapter.
Trying to use a metaphor. It's actually coming from Ontario, but is taking it's sweet time getting here. I've had things come from China quicker than down east.
Trying to use a metaphor. It's actually coming from Ontario, but is taking it's sweet time getting here. I've had things come from China quicker than down east.
Oh I see. I used to live in Windsor, Ontario right on the border with Michigan, US and I had a relative that works in the US so I always used Amazon US for all my car parts purchases. I feel your pain!
It's pretty cold in my garage, abour 1 degree c. I wonder how long it will take for the transmission to warm up to 45 C with no load on it.
Should I be running it in neutal or drive or park?
And should I be checking the level with the engine running, and in what gear?
The printed instructions seem to be a poor German to English translation
In a pinch, you can use an IR thermometer to check the temp in the center of the pan. You need to start then engine, and (with your foot on the brake). cycle through all the gears. You may need to rev the engine a bit, and cycle gears several times to reach 45C. It's actually a bit of a pain because the "full operating temp" is closer to 90C. It takes a bit of time to get it to 45C, and then it seems to quickly increase. Be patient - don;t be tempted to rev the engine while in gear with the brake held - it will quickly overshoot 45C. Oh, n check the overflow while in park - do NOT let the engine "freewheel" the tires.
OK, I think I've got it now. Hopefully my icarsoft is here tomorrow. I know from experience that 50 deg C is too hot to keep my bare hand on for more than a few seconds, so I'll have a pretty good idea of what I'm shooting for. I can't believe they are so sensitive. I've got the jack stands two notches higher in the back to make the pan level. I'll check in with the results.
Recently got a bunch of codes:
P0750 -- Transmission shift Solenoid A
P1909 -- Transmission Temp sensor open or shorted
P0995 -- Transmission fluid pressure sensor switch F high
P0746 -- Transmission pressure control solenoid
Probably because my tranny have never been touched.... ever. and with 205,000mi on it maybe MB considers this a lifetime.
Anyway, I want to attempt doing a fluid change but I'm confused as to which tranny I have (722.6 or 722.9). A VIN lookup WDBTK56F87F207791 tells me its a 722.906. Looking for a good DIY video.
Recently got a bunch of codes:
P0750 -- Transmission shift Solenoid A
P1909 -- Transmission Temp sensor open or shorted
P0995 -- Transmission fluid pressure sensor switch F high
P0746 -- Transmission pressure control solenoid
Probably because my tranny have never been touched.... ever. and with 205,000mi on it maybe MB considers this a lifetime.
Anyway, I want to attempt doing a fluid change but I'm confused as to which tranny I have (722.6 or 722.9). A VIN lookup WDBTK56F87F207791 tells me its a 722.906. Looking for a good DIY video.
The 722.9 has 7 forward gears and 2 reverse gears/ratios hence the .9
It only goes up to 6 because after that it goes to D and 7th gear.
These transmissions need a fluid change every 39k miles so it's amazing how it lasted until 205k without destroying itself.
The fluid change procedure is more complicated compared to the 722.6 5-speed but there are very good youtube tutorials on how to do it.
Thanks a lot.. just looked at a few videos. Doesn't look that hard. I don't want to make it harder on myself than I need to so I'm wondering.. instead of going the further steps of emptying the transfer case what if I was to fill until it came out of the overflow tube then wait 5min and keep pumping more in repeating a couple times? I understand some of what I pumped in will be coming back out but will it have mixed in to the old stuff enough that what overflows will have been a half mixture of new and old. I'm getting rid of the car soon so I really don't care if I change the fluid 100%.
Another question: just looked at autohausz and they sell three different brand kits: Meyle, Febi, and more expensive Vaico. Which brand would you pick?
Got around doing the flush. Yep, liquid was black, some gunk on the magnets but no metal. Drained and added 5qts (didn't do the torque converter). 5qts was the perfect amount.... but.....
... I seem to have a real issue every time I touch liquids, I can't seem to get the seals right. After doing the change I now have a leak!! Grrr. It looks like its at the front center edge where its slightly angled, probably not perfectly on there. I used the Febi Bilstein kit from Autohausaz. Did anyone else notice that the new rubber seal didn't exactly fit tight onto the edge of the pan? Maybe when I put it on it moved a little. Going to have to take a look tonight. Sux.
BTW.. for those going to try doing this. 1: To get the fluid in I just bought and cut a cheap 25' tube from the Lowes, drilled a small hole in the 5qt container, held the hose in the container wrapped with cloth while putting pressure into the container from my air compressor. Worked great. #2 instead of IR temp on the case I had a FLIR camera that worked good (only problem is it started to give higher false temps once the muffler got hot and started throwing off heat.
Even the OE gasket is hard to get seated properly in that curve. I have had the same problem with it twice. Did you remove the exhaust support bracket? That makes it much easier to verify that it is seated correctly.
The IR thermometer works better because you can pinpoint an exact spot on the pan and not get false readings from the exhaust. And as for filling, I think I'd have spent a little extra money and bought a cheap hand-operated fluid pump at Harbor Freight. I invested in the Assenmacher pump because even on the first DIY, I still saved money over having an indy do the change. And now that I've used it many more times, it has definitely paid for itself.
Nope.... Did not remove the support bracket. I even looked at it and said to myself "I don't need to remove that". LOL. but its nice to know I'm not the only one.
Since the gasket overhangs over the lip I'm really hoping I can just take that bracket off then pull on it a little without having to drain and take the pan off.
Just finished re-doing the pan. What a PITA! After I put it back on and started putting the fluid back in I immediately saw I had a leak again down the side. This time the seal had pushed outward when the pan was tightened. I was able to loosen the bolts a little and push it back in while getting fluid all over me. haha. That has to be the worst gasket I have ever seen! Anyway, all done. Drove it and no leaks for the past hour. For the next person doing this for the first time... Strongly recommend running your finger around the the entire outer edge making sure the gasket is sitting right after putting the bolts in.
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