Jaybird123

Rudeney

If you have the filter in the tank, then you replace the entire sender unit (left side of the tank). Part number is A2094701394. Now, I will warn you that it is entirely likely that you will break the old, brittle plastic nipple on the fuel pump when you go to disconnect the lines from it (the lines come with the sender and run through the tank and plug into the pump on the right side). Also, you might want to buy new seals, too (A2114710579). They were revised and are now much thicker.

Plutoe

Think about another issue where there really is a problem, like helping your children to catch a ball!!

PS: There is more BS at BW than fact, however I am told it's a great dating site

gaazmon

Off topic, but I actually met one of my ex's on here. No joke. It made for interesting reactions when she or I would mention how we met

And like Rodney said, I would recommend to change the seals while you are at it. Mine were leaking when I bought the car and had them replaced (No issues since and over 80k miles).

Kustom1911

FWIW mboemparts.com has the best price I know of for the in the tank Fuel Delivery / Level Sensor / Filter @ $ 230 + shipping.
The only way to know for sure if you do not have an external fuel filters like the 320 or 350 is to look it up in the EPC
with your serial number. Our CLK500 does not use the external filter when I checked.

Wife's 04 CLK500 fuel pump went out @ 255,000 miles. When I removed the old pump the seal ring was split, so I installed new
seal rings on the new pump and the FD / LS / F. You also need the claw style wrench to properly torque the plastic nuts for them.
The FD / LS / F is original @ 313,000 miles.

She uses known gas stations and I put in a bottle of Chevron Techron every 2 months

Rudeney

Here's a list of MBZ dealers I've found who sell parts online at a discount. No single one has the best prices on all parts, and there are shipping cost differences, so check them allf or the best delivered price.

https://www.shopmbonline.com/

https://www.factorymoparparts.com/

https://www.mbpartspros.com/

https://www.genuinenewparts.com/

https://www.benzpartshq.com/

https://www.oembenzparts.com/

https://www.mercedespartsdelivered.com/

https://www.mbdirectparts.com/

https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com/

https://www.mboemparts.com/

https://www.shopmbonline.com/

https://www.factorymoparparts.com/

https://www.mbpartspros.com/

https://www.genuinenewparts.com/

https://www.benzpartshq.com/

https://www.oembenzparts.com/

https://www.mercedespartsdelivered.com/

https://www.mbdirectparts.com/

https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com/

https://www.mboemparts.com/

Jaybird123

Thank you all for the advice and links. I will be returning the unused SL 82 Mahle and gladly keep my $41 for another day! It seems like I would be better off to explore other identified potential causes of mild idle stumble and near-stall on inclines for now. I also periodically run Techron through my cars, and at 133k mi it sounds like dirty fuel filters are less suspect. I have a valve cover gasket to replace this weekend, and will be inspecting the spark plug(s) below that leaking gasket for oily buildup. I'm also replacing all of the breather hoses as suggested. Does anyone have a picture or WIS of the cleaning recommended on the underside of the breather cover? I read mention of some small port that often gets clogged...?

Rudeney

When I did the cover on the M112 in the C240 (same as on the M113, just two less cylinders), I used Gunk engine cleaner (which is basically just aerosol kerosene) and sprayed them, includign all the small passages, and then wiped clean with a microfiber cloth. You'd be amazed at how well microfiber absorbs oil - even for spills.

Jaybird123

Rudeney

Once you get it started, the RTV will release fairly well. I'd start on a corner with a razor blade and get it through the RTV, then move up to something thicker. I have some plastic wedges and a Teflon-coated window glazing tool I used for those jobs. There is also an RTV solvent made my Loc-Tite that can help.