Derek Likos

nevermind, i see that i have to take another plastic piece off to see the fuse

Derek Likos

Derek Likos

wouldn't my AC be out aswell? I see it controls that too but my AC works fine until my engine over heats

Derek Likos

Okay so help me out here, what exactly am i looking for. #5 is the middle one.

Rudeney

You have to remove the box and open the back panel to access the fuses, but yo only need to do that if the fuse is blown. You can check continuity from the front side. Just put your ohmmeter between the battery feed (the large middle terminal) and #5 (next to the last on the right).

Derek Likos

just checked it, all is good there! Im guessing its my fan. I checked fuse 51 as well. I also realized that when the car seems like its trying to start the fan it makes a high pitch whining noise but never comes on. Also, my coolant light comes on at about 85c, I guess when the thats when the fan tries to kick on and when it doesnt that code pops up? It also fluctuates down, as if my car is getting cooler(which it isnt) it does that for about 5 minutes THEN starts showing higher temps. At this point im thinking of just buying the fan because i cant think of anything else that it could be.

Rudeney

Yes, the fan will kick on based on coolant temps, and if it doesn't you'll get an error. It does sound like the fan may be bad. Check the wiring harness to it and make sure it's well connected and the contacts are clean.

Derek Likos

Can you please send a link of hiw to take apart the pre fuse box, or if yiu could explain? Thank u

Rudeney

There are plastic tabs holding it to the wall. Once you remove it, then there are plastic tabs holding the back cover on. Remove that to access the fuses. But if you check continuity from the battery terminal to terminal #5 and it;s good, it's not the fuse.

Derek Likos

IT WAS A PAIN IN THE A**, but i got it off, theres these extra pins you have to pull off but they will not come off unless you break them, i read somewhere that its non serviceable so i think MB just tried to make it really hard to take off.... so i broke the 2 pins off(they were useless anyway the piece has like 8 other clips to hold it shut) anyways i inspected the fuse and it seemed okay. I realized that other fuses in the box were flipped so they read upside down. SO i turned that fuse upside down aswell, bolted everything back together and 2 hours later MY FAN WORKS! I just wanted to thank you for the diagram because there are 0 videos on any of these things. Car is running better than ever, again thanks brother!

Rudeney

lad to help, but honestly, I think it wasn't the fuse - its direction does not matter. Maybe it was a loose connection somewhere that was "fixed" by moving things around?

Derek Likos

im not exactly sure, maybe taking the assemby off a tightening it back on.. im not sure but im definitely not gonna question it haha.

BK627

So I'm still having issues with my ecu. Originally when my fan was running high all the time I was told that it was my ecu that was causing the issues. So I mailed it to a place to have it repaired, after I received it back the fan was working properly, but I received another code p0023 they ended up replacing the chip in the ecu again. Everything was working fine again, but I a few hours after I reinstalled the ecu I got new codes coming up, P0030, P0050, P2190 (p) and P0606 (p)
From what I understand P0606 which is pending is an indication that the ecu is no good. I'm thinking of replacing the ecu but now I'm thinking I might have a short somewhere that is boring out the ecu. The car is running fine as if nothing is wrong but the codes are there and it drives me nuts anytime I see the check engine light. Any suggestions here would be appreciated, I wan to get this issue fixed but don't want to start changing parts that are not needed. (I have a sprint booster connected to the car as well, not sure if that could have caused any damage or not)

Rudeney

First thing you need to do is to get a scanner that reads MBZ codes and not generic OBDII codes. iCarsoft i980 or MBII, or the Autel MD802 MaxDiag Elite are all reported to be good ones that won;t break the bank.

BK627

Rudeney

Yes, than you for catching that, it's i980 (I will correct my original post).