CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

2 issues on my new to me Cabriolet CLK 500

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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 12:45 AM
  #1  
ZitoMD's Avatar
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From: Maryland
2005 CLK 500, 2010 Ford Fusion, 2012 Chevy Avalanche
2 issues on my new to me Cabriolet CLK 500

New to me 2005 CLK 500 Cabriolet. Bought it as a project but need to get the little things fixed to have a commuter first.

1st on the list is getting the key fob to work. Checked #8 fuse and fob batteries both good. Based on threads here it may be a bad amp. However I can't figure out a) where they are located on a cabriolet and b) any way to test them? Should I try getting one from a donor car?

2nd need to replace the rear window regulator I believe as it only goes down an inch. Since it doesn't go down, neither will the top.

Any of you experts able to help me out?
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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The antenna amp on the cabriolet is under the dash. I think it's real PITA to access with lots of parts having to be removed. Try switching the key from "global' to "local" locking by pressing and holding the lock/unlock button simultaneously until the led light on the fob blinks (unless you have a newer chrome key with not light, then just hold them for about 10 seconds). Sometimes this will wake up the system. Remove the interior A-pillar trim and make sure the antenna wiring is connected to the windshield contacts. Also, do you have a 2nd key? If so, does it also not work? And finally, try aiming the key at the IR receiver on the door handle to see if it works that way. If so, then it is most likely the antenna amp. Oh, and you might try unplugging the alarm siren (under the fender liner, behind the front passenger wheel). Sometimes it goes bad and can interfere with RCL even if fuse #8 is good.
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 02:40 PM
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ZitoMD's Avatar
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2005 CLK 500, 2010 Ford Fusion, 2012 Chevy Avalanche
Thanks for the reply. The car does start with the keys. I do have both and the each have the same issues. I have been using them about 1 inch from the door handle pointed at the black square. They both work when I do that. I will try the global/local change. Not holding much hope it will work.

Looks like i may need to pull the dash at a local salvage yard for practice. Will see if there is an Amp there. Any instructions to help with that?

Thanks for the PM as well. I got as far as removing the interior door panel. Just found out i need to pull the back seat as well.

Is my assumption correct that it is the regulator that would make it only go down 1 inch?
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