alexandergreat

Hi,
I need to change my rotors both fronts for my 2007 clk550 coupe, 123k miles.
Which ones would you advise? (See links below). Also maybe are there cheaper one (would like to have drilled or dimpled), anyone?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...210912#fitment

or

https://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/cross-drilled-brake-rotors-black-zinc-coating.php?d=59840&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz7bYg4Gg3gIV h9lkCh3eLAekEAQYAiABEgI1hfD_BwE

Or these guys :

https://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/premium-dimpled-&-slotted-brake-rotors-black-zinc-coating.php

Thanks

Fatz

I replaced my rotors recently and I used StopTech. I don't think you are going to notice any huge advantage or disadvantage in the rotors unless you often do spirited driving. I chose StopTech primarily because I did not want to paint the hubs of the new rotors myself and they have a good reputation. I used Akebono pads. The dustless ones, and they are great except for an occasional very low squeal. Contrary to my prior stance on no/low dust pads, I'm liking not having to clean the wheels daily. There is also an occasional "mushy" feel when first applying the brake. This may have nothing to do with the pads or the rotors and it is just occasionally.

Personally I would not be too concerned about "cheaper" ones. Just shop for the best price on the ones you decide on. But you could get none drilled ones for a few dollars less. Once again, I would not.

Rudeney

I have found that OE brake rotors and pads offered the best stopping on my CLK550. I tried Frozen Rotors and various pads, but was happier when I went back to OE MBZ parts.

alexandergreat

Then I'll try to find just that.
After all rotors isn't something to neglect. How do generic brands justify low cost rotors? Lower quality for the metal? Or the process maybe...
Rodney, would you say same goes for shocks/struts? Genuine vs for eg. Bilstein?
I have a mechanic who says he's got the original so should I go for it?
For the rotors, it seems that genuine is going to cost me though.. but after inspection, the 'lip' at the edge is not even a mm out. I think the thickness of the rotors in the inside, have to be 28mm btw.
Interesting btw, I found that the other side of the rotor (the side facing under the car) is thinner than the one facing out (wheels bolts side).
I'll make some research to find oe rotors. Would you also change rotors bolts? Is there a torque spec on these btw?

Thanks guys.

Rudeney

I generally use OE or OEM parts for the suspension.

91ser

COOPERDB

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I just ordered new rotors from R1Concepts.com -

https://www.r1concepts.com/eline

I went with the Eline drilled and slotted rotors as

I am an old man and don't drive as fast and hard

as most of you do -

I wanted the drilled and slotted rotors for looks -

For hard driving R1 offers these:

https://www.r1concepts.com/geomet

I worked with Kevin at R1 and he gave me the

best price shipped by far compared to the other

brake / rotor companies I spoke with -

Kevin@r1concepts.com

He addressed all my concerns and while I have

had issues in the past with other companies rotors...

Kevin did not have any negative comments about

other companies - he just sold me on R1 -

I ordered on Tuesday and the rotors are slated to

be delivered tomorrow which is Friday - FAST -


Thank-You
D.B.


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