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CLK 500 - Shaking heavily when coming to stop (one or two times lost power)
So this is an over a year issue. I've tried what I can and cannot figure it out. All spark plugs are good, new belt replaced, engine mounts fixed and replaced, I changed the CPS sensor twice, just nothing is solving this problem. Took it to a mechanic and they said the rotors need to be replaced and new tires as well as brake fluid flush? In other words, they really had no idea and just told me what they think I need to have replaced from diagnostic and inspecting. I really don't think that would cause it to shake so hard on idle and sometimes losing complete power to the car where I have to turn the engine off and on.
There are no error codes or check engine lights, all clean. Any ideas or components I should look at that could cause this heavy shaking. It only occurs after driving for some time and then going to slow down to a stop such as a red light. It shakes after coming to a complete stop, not during. It is random as well. Sometimes a smooth ride with no issues and sometimes a very bad ride. If I can't figure out anymore, just gonna sell it for parts or as is. It sucks as the car is in excellent shape with the interior and only 120,000 miles and hate to see this go. Thank you.
Tl;dr Car is shaking and losing power after driving to a complete stop.
If it shakes at a full stop, then none of those items the mechanic listed would be affecting it. Some other things to check are the fuel pump (amps and pressure test) as well as the MAF sensor. You could try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if that changes things. It will throw a code and you'll get an illuminated MIL, but if there is no change, then iI might replace the MAF sensor (make sure to get a genuine Bosch or MBZ part, NOT from eBay or Amazon - they sell fakes).
Another thing I have seen cause this is vacuum leaks and poor intake seals. Check that the engine cover is tight around the MAF sensor opening. Also, the elbow between the MAF sensor and throttle has seals that can deteriorate. Check the vacuum hoses for cracks/breakage - they are prone to this with age. Finally, it could be a throttle problem. Try the reset procedure (below) to see if that helps. If it does, you may have a bad accelerator pedal.
1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.
When I changed oil a month ago, I noticed the seal on the air cleaner felt old... bought a new one at the MB dealer for about $20... I think it was more preventive maintenance for me because I felt no difference in the car’s performance, but did notice the newseal was thicker (I’m guessing a result of 12 years of use and 120K miles)... Old seal New seal
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