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Starter interrupt probably works differently in our cars. If I understand correctly the ECU is responsible for this feature and in my case even though my car "fully manual" according to ECU configuration it never worked. Basically my ECU doesn't care whether the clutched pedal pressed or not, but the switch is still necessary for proper cruise control functioning.
1998 C43 w/ 55 swap Wavetrac LSD and 6-Speed manual
202 chassis - previous generation of electronics. I'm sure it's different. I found a guy that can do the coding - but I'm tempted to buy a version of the C3 w/ HHT installed and figure it out. I just know I am NOT driving around w/ the 722.6 shifter still plugged in and in neutral as the long-term solution!
My brake/clutch pedals came out of a Crossfire - bolts right up. The brake switch is identical so no issue there. The clutch has provisions for TWO switches. One is for the clutch all the way pushed in - this would be for the starter interrupt and still need to figure this out but thinking one of the wires in the shifter harness is the key. The second switch position is at the top of the clutch travel - a 2nd switch here to disengage the cruise control as soon as the clutch is pressed. (The pedals I got from the donor x-fire did not have the switch installed but that could have been lost when removed or not needed w/ the newer electronics.)
Great job! I wish I could have a manual tranny! You must be a Master Mechanic to take on such task!! I remember way back in the eighties, my dad swap out an 8 Cyl and installed a 6 Cylinder engine in his 1986 Monte Carlo 🥰
Hello my friends, it's time to share a story about manual transmission swap on my 2004 clk320 convertible
Let's start from "why" question: it's very simple : I love my CLK and I prefer manual cars ... and there are lots of other different reasons but it's more "talk over a cold beer" kind of discussion :-D
I'll try to share as many details as possible, hope it's going to be interesting (i'll reserve couple of post just i case)
Ok, back to busyness.
Entire swap took me 10 hours (thanks to buddies for helping me ) start to finish. I have really small garage with no lift so I rented a lift at PitRow (big shoot-out to them) and my clk came with automatic and left the same day with manual
But I spent about 6 month in preparation for that action...
Anyway....
Mechanical part:
1. 716.6 transmission from 2005 Chrysler Crossfire with ~45k
2. Luk flywheel
3. Sasch clutch kit
4. Everything else is original Mercedes parts (everything from c320 manual)
No drilling/cutting, everything looks and works stock!
I found VIN from c320 with manual transmission and used it to find all necessary parts
I did it on a 2007 clk550 and it worked great. The transmission felt strong enough for the V8. I wouldn't do it on a clk63 I think that the torque of that engine would destroy the transmission.
Originally Posted by Sixcarbs
Very cool!
Has anyone done this on a CLK 55 or CLK 63?
Last edited by elrover2006; Jan 11, 2025 at 05:23 PM.
Reason: adding a picture
Have you had any success in getting the ESP to work in your 07 CLK swap? I've been doing some manual swaps and I run into an issue with the ESP telling me the wrong engine computer is fitted (C1038) and it comes up as soon as I code the ME to NSG. Change it back, the ESP is happy, but the car won't start. Change it back to NSG, the car starts/runs/drives just fine but the ESP is inoperative and throws that code. I've done a lot of digging but so far the answer I usually get is "Your ESP coding is wrong and you can't change it"
Hello all, im trying to get more powerful m112 to my w210 e260 which is already manual but i have engine from car which had A/T. I have whole engine with engine cable harness and ECU. So my question is that will i need coding the engine ECU? If yes, I would like to get requirement for purchasing Star diagnostic because i have more models.