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Has anyone ever dropped the subframe? If so, I have a few questions if any of you are willing to help me out:
1) Can I use a generic bushing press kit to get the 4 rubber bushings/mounts free and also to press the new ones in?
2) In the Mercedes tech documents, it says to re-thread the bolt holes in the frame. Has anyone done this and what did you do? Can you use the same size tap and the original screw or do you have to tap bigger holes and get bigger bolts?
3) If I can use the original sized 4 subframe bolts, does anybody have the specifications or part number so I can order brand new bolts to install.
Any advice would be appreciated! Gonna tackle new mounts, control arms, springs/struts for the rear suspension and new control arms, springs/struts for the front.
(2) 2004 Mercedes Benz CLK500, (2) 2005 ML500, SL500
Use the search engine. On 11/14/2018 member Jaybird123 had the same question at post #26 of Reviving an older thread by Thinrush on this subject, you can see my reply's on how to do it. I suggest getting new Lemforder rear control arms rather than replacing just the bushings, not very expensive.
I believe we're talking about 2 different things. I'm talking about lowering the subframe from the frame and changing out the 4 rubber bushings within the subframe (the ones that a lot of youtubers post videos of them changing them out and having to use air chisels to get them out). I believe you were talking about the control arm that is hard to get to without lowering the subframe. Can you please reply if you have any knowledge of lowering the subframe and changing out those bushings? If you can answer any of my previous questions I'd greatly appreciate it.
(2) 2004 Mercedes Benz CLK500, (2) 2005 ML500, SL500
How did you check the rear sub frame bushings to know for sure they need replacing? A guy my wife works with was told
by a Mercedes dealer his were bad, and was around $ 1,800 to fix, but I put it up on my alignment rack and checked and
they were fine, just the support joints that connect the rear lower control arms to the wheel carriers. He went to an independent
shop and spent a lot less.
My wife's 04 CLK 500 has 352,000 miles and hers are still good.
I just figured that I would lower the subframe and change out that control arm rather than cut the bolts how you did it. Not that your way is wrong but I just thought why not replace the subframe bushings as preventive maintenance as well. I’m replacing pretty much everything in the rear suspension and don’t want to leave anything untouched so I won’t have to do any repairs in the future.
I just put mine back in. Did not change bushings so I cannot answer those questions but can tell you my experience with the bolts and threads. (Disclaimer,,,,, I am a hobbyist and Not a professional Mercedes Mechanic)
The 4 bolts that hold the sub-frame to the body came out fine. I checked the threads with the original bolt and everything looked good, no damage to threads or signs of loctite. The rear two "nuts" or threaded body mounts are fixed and part of the body. The front two can move- see picture. If you pull the inner fender liner and remove a rectangular plug you can see the floating "nut" and clip that holds the front in place. Sorry I did not measure the bolts but in hindsight I should have bought new ones with hex heads to replace the reverse star head ones that are in there.
Just make sure you drop the lower control arm pivots and remove the springs before you drop out the sub-frame. I used internal spring compressors and dropped out the whole assembly - fortunately it worked (without stripping the threads). However I put the springs in After installing the sub and did not even need the spring compressor. I just used two floor jacks and an alignment bar to get each spring in.
Last edited by Paulers; Jan 4, 2020 at 07:54 PM.
Reason: spelling
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Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
