Which Wire for Overhead Console Hardwire of V1?
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clk500
Please post pictures when your done Frisco. I would like to see what wire you tapped into for the positive wire. I tapped into the same wire that 500 Club for the positive and tried just about every screw there was and still not getting any power for the V1.
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From: Bay Area
06 CLS500 + 99 ML320
Originally Posted by Frisco
Sorry, I didn't get to taking that picture over the weekend. I grounded mine to a screw on the right/passenger side of the opening for the overhead console; pull out the console and look up inside the opening and you'll see a single screw that is tapped into one of the structural pieces for the roof. My problem with power cutting out is pretty simple - I just tried to tap into a wire that's live only when the car is on (one of the wires for the garage opener buttons), but it's not big enough and isn't getting good contact. I'm just going to tap into one of the other larger gauge wires and will post pics when I do.
It seems to me your overhead console different than my car. Any idea how to open up and steal a power to hot wire the V1?
Thanks,
hlkc
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This is an excellent write-up and really neat way to hard wire a radar detector. And I did it on my 2005 C230.
The problem however was that I started seeing some strange activities in the car afterwards. The reaction for the automatic dimming of the left rearview mirror slowed down and the moon roof started loosing synchronization twice a weak. When I tried to close the moon roof it would close and then bounce back half open. If I closed it and held the button close for a second, it would get fixed, but not for long. So during the regular A service, I removed the detector and told the dealer about the problem. Dealer checked it and said they tested it and it showed an error in one of the tests, so they replaced the whole overhead unit. Now. This all could be a big coincidence, and it could have been, but being an engineer, I knew that tapping the detector to the extremely fragile “grey and blue” wire, which is the only one in the overhead unit hot on ignition, would alter some of the circuits in the relatively complex overhead unit. And I believe it did break something in my car.
So recently with a help of a friend, I hardwired it again, but this time using a transistor. So the “grey and blue” wire is used just as a switch to open the transistor and the real wire, which gives the power to the radar detector, is the big "red and blue" wire, which I believe is used in some power circuit like the moon roof motor.
My radar detector is Passport 8500 X50. Will write again after some time to tell how it goes this time.
The problem however was that I started seeing some strange activities in the car afterwards. The reaction for the automatic dimming of the left rearview mirror slowed down and the moon roof started loosing synchronization twice a weak. When I tried to close the moon roof it would close and then bounce back half open. If I closed it and held the button close for a second, it would get fixed, but not for long. So during the regular A service, I removed the detector and told the dealer about the problem. Dealer checked it and said they tested it and it showed an error in one of the tests, so they replaced the whole overhead unit. Now. This all could be a big coincidence, and it could have been, but being an engineer, I knew that tapping the detector to the extremely fragile “grey and blue” wire, which is the only one in the overhead unit hot on ignition, would alter some of the circuits in the relatively complex overhead unit. And I believe it did break something in my car.
So recently with a help of a friend, I hardwired it again, but this time using a transistor. So the “grey and blue” wire is used just as a switch to open the transistor and the real wire, which gives the power to the radar detector, is the big "red and blue" wire, which I believe is used in some power circuit like the moon roof motor.
My radar detector is Passport 8500 X50. Will write again after some time to tell how it goes this time.
Last edited by nikita; Jul 17, 2006 at 05:57 PM.
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From: Bay Area, CA
03 CLK500, 04 X3, No 07 GT3RS :(
I haven't had that problem, at least that I'm aware of. The sunroof problem seems to be common with people in the forum, and the whole drive motor assembly on mine was replaced under warranty right after I bought the car. It has been working fine ever since and doesn't seem to have electrical issues with the radar detector but perhaps I should look a little closer.
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Originally Posted by Frisco
I haven't had that problem, at least that I'm aware of. The sunroof problem seems to be common with people in the forum, and the whole drive motor assembly on mine was replaced under warranty right after I bought the car. It has been working fine ever since and doesn't seem to have electrical issues with the radar detector but perhaps I should look a little closer.
This could very well be a problem with 2005 C230 only, or the power consumption of my radar could be higher than the V1, or this all could have been a coincidence where the time I noticed the defects in the car was the same time I installed the detector. I am just sharing my experience.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Somewhere in TX
2006 C230 Sport
This is an excellent write-up and really neat way to hard wire a radar detector. And I did it on my 2005 C230.
The problem however was that I started seeing some strange activities in the car afterwards. The reaction for the automatic dimming of the left rearview mirror slowed down and the moon roof started loosing synchronization twice a weak. When I tried to close the moon roof it would close and then bounce back half open. If I closed it and held the button close for a second, it would get fixed, but not for long. So during the regular A service, I removed the detector and told the dealer about the problem. Dealer checked it and said they tested it and it showed an error in one of the tests, so they replaced the whole overhead unit. Now. This all could be a big coincidence, and it could have been, but being an engineer, I knew that tapping the detector to the extremely fragile “grey and blue” wire, which is the only one in the overhead unit hot on ignition, would alter some of the circuits in the relatively complex overhead unit. And I believe it did break something in my car.
So recently with a help of a friend, I hardwired it again, but this time using a transistor. So the “grey and blue” wire is used just as a switch to open the transistor and the real wire, which gives the power to the radar detector, is the big "red and blue" wire, which I believe is used in some power circuit like the moon roof motor.
My radar detector is Passport 8500 X50. Will write again after some time to tell how it goes this time.
The problem however was that I started seeing some strange activities in the car afterwards. The reaction for the automatic dimming of the left rearview mirror slowed down and the moon roof started loosing synchronization twice a weak. When I tried to close the moon roof it would close and then bounce back half open. If I closed it and held the button close for a second, it would get fixed, but not for long. So during the regular A service, I removed the detector and told the dealer about the problem. Dealer checked it and said they tested it and it showed an error in one of the tests, so they replaced the whole overhead unit. Now. This all could be a big coincidence, and it could have been, but being an engineer, I knew that tapping the detector to the extremely fragile “grey and blue” wire, which is the only one in the overhead unit hot on ignition, would alter some of the circuits in the relatively complex overhead unit. And I believe it did break something in my car.
So recently with a help of a friend, I hardwired it again, but this time using a transistor. So the “grey and blue” wire is used just as a switch to open the transistor and the real wire, which gives the power to the radar detector, is the big "red and blue" wire, which I believe is used in some power circuit like the moon roof motor.
My radar detector is Passport 8500 X50. Will write again after some time to tell how it goes this time.
Has anyone measured the voltage off the big "red and blue" wire????
The V1's input rating is 12-16 Volts.
I recently hardwired my V1 to the "red and blue" wire, int the overhead consult, but the V1 gets PRETTY WARM during operation. I am concerned that the voltage from the "red and blue" wire may be more than 16 Volts.
Does the V1 normally run pretty warm????
~rick
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From: MA
E90 M3
Great guide! I just followed this guide and hardwired my V1 into my 07 CLK550. After the install, my sunroof immediately had a problem. It would automatically open all of the way, but would only move a few inches at a time when I tried to close it. I just assume that the radar detector is drawing too much power and interfering with some of the other electronics, but I'm not too worried about it.
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E320 CDI, SL550, clk550
Great guide! I just followed this guide and hardwired my V1 into my 07 CLK550. After the install, my sunroof immediately had a problem. It would automatically open all of the way, but would only move a few inches at a time when I tried to close it. I just assume that the radar detector is drawing too much power and interfering with some of the other electronics, but I'm not too worried about it.
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E320 CDI, SL550, clk550
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Joined: May 2008
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From: San Francisco
Sold - CLK500
I found that the suction cups dont work, so i opted to use my passenger sunvisor with the clip that comes with the v1. If you position the clip the wrong way round, i.e clip if so that the clip is visible you can get it into a good visable position for the driver. Only problem is that if i passenger gets in your car and pulls the visor down, it will make the v1 drop as it pushes the v1off the clip.
I will try to post pics later, as i know my desciption is a little hard to understand.
I will try to post pics later, as i know my desciption is a little hard to understand.
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From: MA
E90 M3
I found that the suction cups dont work, so i opted to use my passenger sunvisor with the clip that comes with the v1. If you position the clip the wrong way round, i.e clip if so that the clip is visible you can get it into a good visable position for the driver. Only problem is that if i passenger gets in your car and pulls the visor down, it will make the v1 drop as it pushes the v1off the clip.
I will try to post pics later, as i know my desciption is a little hard to understand.
I will try to post pics later, as i know my desciption is a little hard to understand.
also, the inoperability of the passenger sunvisor would be a problem for anyone who has girlfriends/wives/hookers
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Joined: Jan 2019
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GLC300
New to the forum and MB. I just hard wired a v1 in my wifes glc300. I used the fuse panel on he left side of the dash. It had a blank switched power slot. I just plugged in a spade connector and ran the concealed display to the steering column. The V1 is suctioned cupped to the top left of the windshield. Works well. I hope to learn a lot on here. Really nice driving car.
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glc300
I had posted a thread a while ago, but I guess it's no longer available. Anyway, here are some pics.
As you can see, on the left side of the console the blue/gray thin wire is hot only with ignition on. I too, spent a couple of hours with a voltmeter to find it. Hope this helps
As you can see, on the left side of the console the blue/gray thin wire is hot only with ignition on. I too, spent a couple of hours with a voltmeter to find it. Hope this helps
blue/gray thin wire is hot even when car is turned off and locked.
still looking for the wire that is hot when ignition is on..
