jigsb

Hello, I have searched high and low and cannot seem to find this part (Please see attached picture) which the right and left air intake ducts fit into. It sits right below the locking mechanism rebar on the top. It seems like one complete part (1) for the front and left air intake ducts (driver side is cracked - 2). And second part which is broken is the red square marked 3.

Wifey had a front-on collision in my beloved 1st owner 2009 clk350 cab, luckily no frame damage, but insurance marked it as a total loss owing to the entire front being damaged including grill, headlights, some part of bumper and hood, etc. She says she was looking at two adorable puppies on the sidewalk

The car has been simply awesome over last 10+ yrs w/ no major issues, just a relay for the top which had gone bad and wiper pump which were easy cheap fix. Still gives me 25-30mpg combined.And shifts like butter with smooth acceleration.

Hence want to fix and keep this car. I have already procured decent used oem grill and headlights. But need some help in procuring the attached parts shown in the picture.
I have looked up the following parts listed in the Sticky thread and the one I need is not listed: I have searched a few MB parts website but surprisingly do not see this listed or I am not looking at it right.

1. ENGINE COVER 1130100967
2. LFT AIR INLET 1130942282
3. RT AIR INLET 1130942182
4. KEVLAR INLET LFT 2730900182
5. KEVLAR INLET RT 2730900082
6. LFT AIR CLEANER 1130900501
7. RT AIR CLEANER 1130900601
8. REAR INTAKE ASSY 1130900129

Thanks in advance to the wonderful forum and the folks who make it happen.

bixaman

I could be wrong but it looks like the bigger area you highlighted is a large plastic piece called the Air Baffle (2095050530).
Only the top part seems to be intact in your pic.

The middle piece, or what's left of it, supports the front grill (2098880090)

Again, I could be wrong twice over so I would carefully look at images of these parts.

HETPE3B

Be careful - the air baffle differs within the models - the above mentioned number (2095050530) refers to the buffle for models with M112, M113 engines (320, 500), while if you have 350 - you have 272 engine and it is using different looking (and different part number) air baffle.
The grill support - all the same.
Nearly all part numbers that starts with 112 or 113 from your list above - won't fit your car.
p.s. I just parted out couple CLK350's, so I may have a lot of parts available.

jigsb

Thank you Bixaman. That really helps.

Thank you Hetpe3b, wish I had known sooner. Bought the needed parts from Ebay already - lights, grill, etc.. Bumper was fixed by a mobile repair. Just need the hood and above two parts and ac condenser as it seems it is busted as well. Are you in and around Los Angeles or SoCal area !? My car color is black (original non-metallic Kalpana black) and would love to have a black hood, so can avoid painting and possibly mismatch between 10 year old existing color and new paint on the hood.

One quick other question, if I am replacing the busted condenser and then re-charging from 0, how much refrigerant (134A?) cans do I need and pressure readings (with compressor running and off) (for 2009 W209 clk 350).

Thanks again.

jigsb

Ok found the capacity from: https://www.ictworkshopsolutions.com...3/Mercedes.pdf

It seems it is 850gms +/- 25gms (roughly 30 oz) for 2005 clk and later. It also list Pag46 oil at 120ml (roughly 4 oz)

Have couple more Q sorry, if I am replacing the condenser and recharging with refrigerant R134a, do I still need to add above oil. Mobile mechanic who is doing the job for me did not mention anything about oil recharge.

In one of the Toyota videos, the techy added roughly 1 1/2 oz directly in the new condenser - remaining capacity approx 3 oz being in the compressor and lines !?. Is that the normal process !?

And one dumb question - What is the pag46 oil for and does Oil and Refrigerant flow through the same lines ? If so, they do not mix ?

Thanks again

Rudeney

The oil and refrigerant mix in the system - they share the same lines. The problem you have is the oil capacity listed is for a brand new, clean/dry system. In your case, it likely lost some, but not all the oil, but you don't know how much. . So, what I usually do is "assume" it lost half of its oil, so I add half the total quantity back. if you are going to DIY, make sure you know what you are doing - you will need a vacuum pump and proper gauges to do all of this.