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Soft brakes after front and repaired

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Old 08-10-2023, 08:32 PM
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2006 CLK 350/. 2009 CLK 350/2005 Both White
Soft brakes after front end repaired

So on one of my Mercedes, I decided to do the front end, inner outer ball joints, tie rod ends, swaybar links. During this process, you have to take the caliper off and the bracket and I did that no I did not remove the ABS connector from the wheel hub because I tied everything up.

There was no need. I want to put everything back together again I had a little trouble with the caliper. I tried to put the pistons in, but I didn’t have the right tools to compress them any better than big water pump pliers. But I was able to with a few types of a hammer get them on, and the tire spun without much resistance.

All seems normal until I went for a test drive. so if I go down the street and I’m going about 30 and I hit the brakes as if someone was coming out of the driveway without looking, there’s no way I’d be able to stop in time.

My other exact make model except for the year when I get into that one you just touch the brakes lightly and you’re almost going through the windshield. What could’ve changed. I didn’t move the pistons in. Also did was I remove the caliper and again I put it back on I had to tie up a little bit because it was snug.

Last edited by karayjay; 08-11-2023 at 08:20 AM.
Old 08-12-2023, 08:52 PM
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Did you contaminate the pads with grease?

Sounds like you may have damaged a piston, or something else.

Check the piston can still freely move. I use a small G-Clamp to push pistons back. Should push back quite easily.

Next check the pads are not jammed in caliper. Did you copper grease the contact points?
Pad should be loose in the caliper to wiggle around a tiny bit. It should be free enough to easily slide it towards and away from disk by hand when pistons are fully back.

What kind of caliper do you have, One piston, two pistons, or four pistons?

If one piston, then the whole caliper has two slides it must be free to slide on.

A two and four piston caliper, all pistons must move freely, and the pads move in and out towards and away from disk easily. Pins must be rust free and not jam pads either.

Any issues, do a full brake service, by cleaning all rust and dirt, check piston(s) move freely, and all sliding areas, including pad edges) are lubricated and free to move.

The final possibility is you have damaged a brake hose by sharp bending it. The internal rubber line can break away from the stiffening chords, and cause an internal blockage.
Old 08-13-2023, 04:39 PM
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So I figured out what it was on the brake pad bracket there are two long rods, and one of them was seized, which means that the caliper was not sliding in and out freely. I took it out by heating it up a little bit greased it up and it’s working perfectly and the price of working good.

What’s interesting is prior to me doing all this work the brakes never had a problem so I don’t know how it was working all this time when it was seized.

Also, if you want the parts only five dollars a pair at your local Autozone I almost fell down cheaper there than online.

Last edited by karayjay; 08-13-2023 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 08-27-2023, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by karayjay
So I figured out what it was on the brake pad bracket there are two long rods, and one of them was seized, which means that the caliper was not sliding in and out freely. I took it out by heating it up a little bit greased it up and it’s working perfectly and the price of working good.

What’s interesting is prior to me doing all this work the brakes never had a problem so I don’t know how it was working all this time when it was seized.

Also, if you want the parts only five dollars a pair at your local Autozone I almost fell down cheaper there than online.
Glad to hear you figured it out!

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