No crank no start with working starter, fuel pump, and many new parts!
08-10-2024, 11:37 AM
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W209 2005 CLK320 Coupe
No crank no start with working starter, fuel pump, and many new parts!
Hello all, I am currently having issues with my 2005 W209 CLK320 coupe. The problem started with many of my exterior lights not working, and I traced the issue back to water intrusion into the front SAM and ECU compartment. I installed a new front SAM with the same part number and I had the ECU rebuilt and it started like a charm. Diagnosing this issue involved, removing the SAM and ECU and all the cables related to it. Now a few months later I am having another no start issue.
When I insert the key the steering lock releases, the dash and other electronics start, the fuel pump makes its normal noise, but when I turn the key into the furthest start position, the starter does not even try to move. So, I installed a new starter and starter relay and related fuses, which did not fix my issue. Also, I had the EIS/EZS module rebuilt, thinking it was an immobilizer issue to no avail. When I put a paper clip in the starter relay pins to bridge the connection, the starter cranks. From this, I’ve narrowed down the issue to somewhere between (or including) the front SAM and the key. I don’t believe the ECU is the culprit, as it is recognized by my OBD II scanner tablet, and it does not do the high fan speed on key input like I had my damaged ECU.
While tinkering with the car, I would rarely get about a second of starter cranking when I turned the key. But when I would try it a second time, it wouldn’t even make an attempt to start. Also, the battery is new, and reads ~12.4V on a multimeter.
Any ideas on where to start? I’ve made sure all of my connections on the back of the SAM are as secure as they can be, as a few of the retaining clips were damaged when removing them, but none are loose. I’m afraid this might be the culprit, but I want to get another opinion before splicing wiring harnesses to add new connectors.
When I insert the key the steering lock releases, the dash and other electronics start, the fuel pump makes its normal noise, but when I turn the key into the furthest start position, the starter does not even try to move. So, I installed a new starter and starter relay and related fuses, which did not fix my issue. Also, I had the EIS/EZS module rebuilt, thinking it was an immobilizer issue to no avail. When I put a paper clip in the starter relay pins to bridge the connection, the starter cranks. From this, I’ve narrowed down the issue to somewhere between (or including) the front SAM and the key. I don’t believe the ECU is the culprit, as it is recognized by my OBD II scanner tablet, and it does not do the high fan speed on key input like I had my damaged ECU.
While tinkering with the car, I would rarely get about a second of starter cranking when I turned the key. But when I would try it a second time, it wouldn’t even make an attempt to start. Also, the battery is new, and reads ~12.4V on a multimeter.
Any ideas on where to start? I’ve made sure all of my connections on the back of the SAM are as secure as they can be, as a few of the retaining clips were damaged when removing them, but none are loose. I’m afraid this might be the culprit, but I want to get another opinion before splicing wiring harnesses to add new connectors.
