Clk coolant change created more issues then it solved
Clk coolant change created more issues then it solved
What I thought was gonna be a simple quick job ended up being. Not that. Recently I got an 04 clk500 with 100k miles on it I've been swapping parts that I deemed as you know maintenance items since the mileage is high and I can't be sure what was done previously. Spark plugs, air filters, bushings, shocks, new intake pipes etc, and today was the thermostat, and temperature sensor I was going to tackle.
I ended up deciding I was going to drain and flush the coolant as well since it was looking a bit cruddy. We'll I've done that now new thermostat is on, new temperature sensor is on, and did 2 flushes of the coolant system with distilled water. Now I am almost positive I have air trapped in the system that I'm unable to bleed properly. I've lost heat where I previously had it, at least from the defrosters. The main vents were always cold but I believe that's something with the blend door and the clicking I hear which from what I understand is a common issue. The temp gauge will go to about the hash line between the 80c mark and the 120c mark and just stays there.
Cooling fan comes on full blast the expansion tank will sometimes overfill and boil over other times it'll be near empty. All without me doing anything other then having the cap off to burp bubbles. I've squeezed the top radiator house going to the thermostat housing and it feels like there's no coolant that's made it's way up to there. (this while the car was hot and running)
So I'm asking for advice, before I purchase a vacuum filler to drain it properly and fill it properly, on what I've done wrong to this point?
II will add that the temp sensor is an ngk branded one not sure if that'd give a false reading for the temp gauge as to why it's not doesn't move once up to temp
I ended up deciding I was going to drain and flush the coolant as well since it was looking a bit cruddy. We'll I've done that now new thermostat is on, new temperature sensor is on, and did 2 flushes of the coolant system with distilled water. Now I am almost positive I have air trapped in the system that I'm unable to bleed properly. I've lost heat where I previously had it, at least from the defrosters. The main vents were always cold but I believe that's something with the blend door and the clicking I hear which from what I understand is a common issue. The temp gauge will go to about the hash line between the 80c mark and the 120c mark and just stays there.
Cooling fan comes on full blast the expansion tank will sometimes overfill and boil over other times it'll be near empty. All without me doing anything other then having the cap off to burp bubbles. I've squeezed the top radiator house going to the thermostat housing and it feels like there's no coolant that's made it's way up to there. (this while the car was hot and running)
So I'm asking for advice, before I purchase a vacuum filler to drain it properly and fill it properly, on what I've done wrong to this point?
II will add that the temp sensor is an ngk branded one not sure if that'd give a false reading for the temp gauge as to why it's not doesn't move once up to temp
Junior Member

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 5
From: Bay Area, California
2015 S63 AMG Coupe, 2003 CLK500, 1986 TVR 280i
Air in the system and/or may be failed aux water pump.
With heater at max temp and full blast the aux water pump should be running. If it’s not, you need to look into it and perhaps replace it. It sits right up against the coolant reservoir. Listen to it and if you can remove it and test it by applying 12 volts to it. Also feel the hose out of the aux pump running towards the interior. If it remains cold, the pump is not running or failed.
Another issue (quite rare) the valve in the thermostat may be tilted and out of alignment. This can happen if you drop the thermostat. Misalignment can prevent the thermostat from opening completely.
I vacuum fill the system. But encountered a failed aux pump that drove me nuts since it was working until I flushed the coolant, changed thermostat, upper radiator hose, water pump, pulleys and belt.
good luck.
Another issue (quite rare) the valve in the thermostat may be tilted and out of alignment. This can happen if you drop the thermostat. Misalignment can prevent the thermostat from opening completely.
I vacuum fill the system. But encountered a failed aux pump that drove me nuts since it was working until I flushed the coolant, changed thermostat, upper radiator hose, water pump, pulleys and belt.
good luck.
With heater at max temp and full blast the aux water pump should be running. If it’s not, you need to look into it and perhaps replace it. It sits right up against the coolant reservoir. Listen to it and if you can remove it and test it by applying 12 volts to it. Also feel the hose out of the aux pump running towards the interior. If it remains cold, the pump is not running or failed.
Another issue (quite rare) the valve in the thermostat may be tilted and out of alignment. This can happen if you drop the thermostat. Misalignment can prevent the thermostat from opening completely.
I vacuum fill the system. But encountered a failed aux pump that drove me nuts since it was working until I flushed the coolant, changed thermostat, upper radiator hose, water pump, pulleys and belt.
good luck.
Another issue (quite rare) the valve in the thermostat may be tilted and out of alignment. This can happen if you drop the thermostat. Misalignment can prevent the thermostat from opening completely.
I vacuum fill the system. But encountered a failed aux pump that drove me nuts since it was working until I flushed the coolant, changed thermostat, upper radiator hose, water pump, pulleys and belt.
good luck.
Junior Member

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 5
From: Bay Area, California
2015 S63 AMG Coupe, 2003 CLK500, 1986 TVR 280i
Aux water pump.
Yes, that’s the one hanging from the expansion tank.
i did vacuum fill the engine twice, then checked the aux pump only to see that it had failed. Replaced it and all was good (actually I replaced the expansion tank as well, since the cap can fail over time).
water pump spontaneous failure is unheard of (unless you can see it leaking, making noise or the pulley wobbling).
Checking errors via scanner is also a good thing if you have access to one.
My car has 170k mikes on it and I’ve done two major services on it each after ~80k miles. These engines are as solid as they come. They well designed and there are procedures available online which make life easier.
if you just bought this car, don’t neglect the transmission service. The “life time transmission” oil typically in the owner’s manual is total BS.service the transmission right away if it has not been serviced already. I do it every 60k miles minimum.
Just take your time, use OEM parts and procedures, and you’ll be fine.
i did vacuum fill the engine twice, then checked the aux pump only to see that it had failed. Replaced it and all was good (actually I replaced the expansion tank as well, since the cap can fail over time).
water pump spontaneous failure is unheard of (unless you can see it leaking, making noise or the pulley wobbling).
Checking errors via scanner is also a good thing if you have access to one.
My car has 170k mikes on it and I’ve done two major services on it each after ~80k miles. These engines are as solid as they come. They well designed and there are procedures available online which make life easier.
if you just bought this car, don’t neglect the transmission service. The “life time transmission” oil typically in the owner’s manual is total BS.service the transmission right away if it has not been serviced already. I do it every 60k miles minimum.
Just take your time, use OEM parts and procedures, and you’ll be fine.
Last edited by pomchal; Nov 9, 2025 at 12:15 PM.
Yes, that’s the one hanging from the expansion tank.
i did vacuum fill the engine twice, then checked the aux pump only to see that it had failed. Replaced it and all was good (actually I replaced the expansion tank as well, since the cap can fail over time).
water pump spontaneous failure is unheard of (unless you can see it leaking, making noise or the pulley wobbling).
Checking errors via scanner is also a good thing if you have access to one.
My car has 170k mikes on it and I’ve done two major services on it each after ~80k miles. These engines are as solid as they come. They well designed and there are procedures available online which make life easier.
if you just bought this car, don’t neglect the transmission service. The “life time transmission” oil typically in the owner’s manual is total BS.service the transmission right away if it has not been serviced already. I do it every 60k miles minimum.
Just take your time, use OEM parts and procedures, and you’ll be fine.
i did vacuum fill the engine twice, then checked the aux pump only to see that it had failed. Replaced it and all was good (actually I replaced the expansion tank as well, since the cap can fail over time).
water pump spontaneous failure is unheard of (unless you can see it leaking, making noise or the pulley wobbling).
Checking errors via scanner is also a good thing if you have access to one.
My car has 170k mikes on it and I’ve done two major services on it each after ~80k miles. These engines are as solid as they come. They well designed and there are procedures available online which make life easier.
if you just bought this car, don’t neglect the transmission service. The “life time transmission” oil typically in the owner’s manual is total BS.service the transmission right away if it has not been serviced already. I do it every 60k miles minimum.
Just take your time, use OEM parts and procedures, and you’ll be fine.
Thank you for the advice as well I did follow some threads on here before I did it that said the system self bleeds and the way I did it wouldn't be an issue but it seems to be an issue so I do think a vacuum fill will resolve the issue along with the new auxiliary pump will follow up when I get a chance this coming weekend or next.
Also on the transmission according to the previous seller it was rebuilt not long ago and I thought the 5 speed was pretty much bullet proof but I'll start looking into doing this as well better safe then sorry!
Just wanted to follow up and say a simple vacuum fill resolved the issue. Definitely seems more finicky when it comes to bleeding itself compared to my Saab but its a lesson learned and new tool added to the arsenal .


