Need new tires and thinking about moving up to 18s
#27
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2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Hey CR,
I thought of this a few times and started thinking. (poo bear style).
The AMG suspension was custom engineered to maintain a staggered tire and rim combination and changing these will alter the cars intention of Pre race Benz street car that is competition ready.
I do not condone changing the car for looks and upgrades but the optimal change will come in the ride and handling department. altering the width of the tire/wheel will require some camber bolt kits which are covered elsewhere. next will be spring load, spring pad and shocks.
If you are into it for looks then go for it but consider the aftermath of the geometry in the suspension and steering that will be changed.
AMG did not guess when 17" staggered wheels and tires were selected with an all out pre race spring and shock combination.
Glad to see you back in here CR it has been some time for me too.
Alll the Best, Gator
I thought of this a few times and started thinking. (poo bear style).
The AMG suspension was custom engineered to maintain a staggered tire and rim combination and changing these will alter the cars intention of Pre race Benz street car that is competition ready.
I do not condone changing the car for looks and upgrades but the optimal change will come in the ride and handling department. altering the width of the tire/wheel will require some camber bolt kits which are covered elsewhere. next will be spring load, spring pad and shocks.
If you are into it for looks then go for it but consider the aftermath of the geometry in the suspension and steering that will be changed.
AMG did not guess when 17" staggered wheels and tires were selected with an all out pre race spring and shock combination.
Glad to see you back in here CR it has been some time for me too.
Alll the Best, Gator
#28
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You're giving them waaaaay too much credit. Also not sure what you mean by "pre-race."
Every single car is designed to a compromise. Only a select few ever manage to get shipped out with one, pure intention(CLK GTR, F1, Enzo, Cobra R, old 1le Camaro/Firebird, Viper ACR, CLK63 bs, 1969 ZL1 Corvette/Camaro). Sure, an AMG has to perform, but it's still a luxury car for a "mature audience." It can't behave like a 1st gen Viper in the slightest. That means it's engineered to X performance, Y comfort, and Z driver friendliness. If AMG wanted a real competition ready wheel tire set up, they'd have used forged 18 or 19" wheels, and f/r tires closer in size. Sure, give the rear some serious meats, but 225's with an(albeit aluminum) V8 hanging over the front in a 3500lb car? The E46 M3 was down nearly 100lbs(and 100lb-ft) and wore 225/255. If taken to a road course, I can only imagine how abused the factory front tires would look. I agree, if he puts seriously sticky(PSC) and larger rubber on then his suspension would have a fit. But upping a size or two with so so summer tires or even all seasons as City Rat is suggesting will prove no problem for a stock suspension. This isn't a slight on his car, but he even has a vert. No way AMG made that of all models a track star.
Before anyone gets their knickers in a twist, this isn't a stab at AMG at all, just that every car ha. room for improvement. If AMG's were made to be the pinnacle of performance in their respective classes, the Black Series would never have came about after all.
Every single car is designed to a compromise. Only a select few ever manage to get shipped out with one, pure intention(CLK GTR, F1, Enzo, Cobra R, old 1le Camaro/Firebird, Viper ACR, CLK63 bs, 1969 ZL1 Corvette/Camaro). Sure, an AMG has to perform, but it's still a luxury car for a "mature audience." It can't behave like a 1st gen Viper in the slightest. That means it's engineered to X performance, Y comfort, and Z driver friendliness. If AMG wanted a real competition ready wheel tire set up, they'd have used forged 18 or 19" wheels, and f/r tires closer in size. Sure, give the rear some serious meats, but 225's with an(albeit aluminum) V8 hanging over the front in a 3500lb car? The E46 M3 was down nearly 100lbs(and 100lb-ft) and wore 225/255. If taken to a road course, I can only imagine how abused the factory front tires would look. I agree, if he puts seriously sticky(PSC) and larger rubber on then his suspension would have a fit. But upping a size or two with so so summer tires or even all seasons as City Rat is suggesting will prove no problem for a stock suspension. This isn't a slight on his car, but he even has a vert. No way AMG made that of all models a track star.
Before anyone gets their knickers in a twist, this isn't a stab at AMG at all, just that every car ha. room for improvement. If AMG's were made to be the pinnacle of performance in their respective classes, the Black Series would never have came about after all.
#29
Super Member
You're giving them waaaaay too much credit. Also not sure what you mean by "pre-race."
Every single car is designed to a compromise. Only a select few ever manage to get shipped out with one, pure intention(CLK GTR, F1, Enzo, Cobra R, old 1le Camaro/Firebird, Viper ACR, CLK63 bs, 1969 ZL1 Corvette/Camaro). Sure, an AMG has to perform, but it's still a luxury car for a "mature audience." It can't behave like a 1st gen Viper in the slightest. That means it's engineered to X performance, Y comfort, and Z driver friendliness. If AMG wanted a real competition ready wheel tire set up, they'd have used forged 18 or 19" wheels, and f/r tires closer in size. Sure, give the rear some serious meats, but 225's with an(albeit aluminum) V8 hanging over the front in a 3500lb car? The E46 M3 was down nearly 100lbs(and 100lb-ft) and wore 225/255. If taken to a road course, I can only imagine how abused the factory front tires would look. I agree, if he puts seriously sticky(PSC) and larger rubber on then his suspension would have a fit. But upping a size or two with so so summer tires or even all seasons as City Rat is suggesting will prove no problem for a stock suspension. This isn't a slight on his car, but he even has a vert. No way AMG made that of all models a track star.
Before anyone gets their knickers in a twist, this isn't a stab at AMG at all, just that every car ha. room for improvement. If AMG's were made to be the pinnacle of performance in their respective classes, the Black Series would never have came about after all.
Every single car is designed to a compromise. Only a select few ever manage to get shipped out with one, pure intention(CLK GTR, F1, Enzo, Cobra R, old 1le Camaro/Firebird, Viper ACR, CLK63 bs, 1969 ZL1 Corvette/Camaro). Sure, an AMG has to perform, but it's still a luxury car for a "mature audience." It can't behave like a 1st gen Viper in the slightest. That means it's engineered to X performance, Y comfort, and Z driver friendliness. If AMG wanted a real competition ready wheel tire set up, they'd have used forged 18 or 19" wheels, and f/r tires closer in size. Sure, give the rear some serious meats, but 225's with an(albeit aluminum) V8 hanging over the front in a 3500lb car? The E46 M3 was down nearly 100lbs(and 100lb-ft) and wore 225/255. If taken to a road course, I can only imagine how abused the factory front tires would look. I agree, if he puts seriously sticky(PSC) and larger rubber on then his suspension would have a fit. But upping a size or two with so so summer tires or even all seasons as City Rat is suggesting will prove no problem for a stock suspension. This isn't a slight on his car, but he even has a vert. No way AMG made that of all models a track star.
Before anyone gets their knickers in a twist, this isn't a stab at AMG at all, just that every car ha. room for improvement. If AMG's were made to be the pinnacle of performance in their respective classes, the Black Series would never have came about after all.
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
I agree with what you are saying. Every chassis is used in so many different applications, for the W209 anyway- CLK320, CLK350, CLK500, CLK550, CLK55, CLK63 etc and come with so many different weights, weight distribution, power, torque, wheel size, width and tire sizes. There will definitely be a band of wheel/tire combos that are better performing and cause no additional problems with the stock suspension geometry and components.
I agree that the staggered setup should definitely be retained and that a very small increase in width only (if at all) with the same rolling diameter and lighter wheels with better rubber is the way to go.
I agree that the staggered setup should definitely be retained and that a very small increase in width only (if at all) with the same rolling diameter and lighter wheels with better rubber is the way to go.
#31
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2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
I kinda like this we are getting controversy from different angles, It is friendly but helps one make decisions.
If we look at AMG and the W208 as it progressed the steering components, Suspension components and rim diameters all changed. The W209, W211 (210) all enhanced to favor larger diameter wheel which was a Fad in the early 2000's era with hopes of collecting an Indy or exotic car appearance.
Most of the performance cars produced today are 18" or larger rims but it does not mean that placing them on an older car will produce any performance gains other than looks.
Lowering this car gets real cumbersome as speed bumps, parking blocks and animal carcass all will damage the bumper cover sooner or later, and this is a problem for most of us in stock trim.
In the racing world lower is better but not in every day commuting.
Bring on the feedback + or - I am easy. I think 18" rims are going to change a lot of drive-ability in the street for the W208.
The 18s will provide more room for big brake kits but were are racing again.
Which ever route you go, Keep us posted CR. There are a lot of W208 with upgraded rims that look sweet but it all depends on what you want the car to be.
Cheers, Gator
If we look at AMG and the W208 as it progressed the steering components, Suspension components and rim diameters all changed. The W209, W211 (210) all enhanced to favor larger diameter wheel which was a Fad in the early 2000's era with hopes of collecting an Indy or exotic car appearance.
Most of the performance cars produced today are 18" or larger rims but it does not mean that placing them on an older car will produce any performance gains other than looks.
Lowering this car gets real cumbersome as speed bumps, parking blocks and animal carcass all will damage the bumper cover sooner or later, and this is a problem for most of us in stock trim.
In the racing world lower is better but not in every day commuting.
Bring on the feedback + or - I am easy. I think 18" rims are going to change a lot of drive-ability in the street for the W208.
The 18s will provide more room for big brake kits but were are racing again.
Which ever route you go, Keep us posted CR. There are a lot of W208 with upgraded rims that look sweet but it all depends on what you want the car to be.
Cheers, Gator
#32
Super Member
I kinda like this we are getting controversy from different angles, It is friendly but helps one make decisions.
If we look at AMG and the W208 as it progressed the steering components, Suspension components and rim diameters all changed. The W209, W211 (210) all enhanced to favor larger diameter wheel which was a Fad in the early 2000's era with hopes of collecting an Indy or exotic car appearance.
Most of the performance cars produced today are 18" or larger rims but it does not mean that placing them on an older car will produce any performance gains other than looks.
Lowering this car gets real cumbersome as speed bumps, parking blocks and animal carcass all will damage the bumper cover sooner or later, and this is a problem for most of us in stock trim.
In the racing world lower is better but not in every day commuting.
Bring on the feedback + or - I am easy. I think 18" rims are going to change a lot of drive-ability in the street for the W208.
The 18s will provide more room for big brake kits but were are racing again.
Which ever route you go, Keep us posted CR. There are a lot of W208 with upgraded rims that look sweet but it all depends on what you want the car to be.
Cheers, Gator
If we look at AMG and the W208 as it progressed the steering components, Suspension components and rim diameters all changed. The W209, W211 (210) all enhanced to favor larger diameter wheel which was a Fad in the early 2000's era with hopes of collecting an Indy or exotic car appearance.
Most of the performance cars produced today are 18" or larger rims but it does not mean that placing them on an older car will produce any performance gains other than looks.
Lowering this car gets real cumbersome as speed bumps, parking blocks and animal carcass all will damage the bumper cover sooner or later, and this is a problem for most of us in stock trim.
In the racing world lower is better but not in every day commuting.
Bring on the feedback + or - I am easy. I think 18" rims are going to change a lot of drive-ability in the street for the W208.
The 18s will provide more room for big brake kits but were are racing again.
Which ever route you go, Keep us posted CR. There are a lot of W208 with upgraded rims that look sweet but it all depends on what you want the car to be.
Cheers, Gator
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
Mine came with 18" stock, probably due to different markets. I also have not installed my KW coilovers due to only having 3/4" clearance at the bottom of my driveway. I am going to get some new collars made up so I can have the car sitting higher than the minimum drop they allow. The minimum is 1/2" and I think I only want 1/4.
#34
SPONSOR
[QUOTE=tw2;6448965]I agree with what you are saying. Every chassis is used in so many different applications, for the W209 anyway- CLK320, CLK350, CLK500, CLK550, CLK55, CLK63 etc and come with so many different weights, weight distribution, power, torque, wheel size, width and tire sizes. QUOTE]
THIS IS WHY WHEN IT COMES TO SUSPENSION WE SAW THE NEED TO PROVIDE PRECISELY ADJUSTABLE FRONT CAMBER AND CASTER AND REAR CAMBER (WITH EXTRA TOE) ADJUSTMENT KITS.
CURRENTLY OEM THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE ADJUSTMENT!
CAMBER:Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/traction.
CASTER: Resolves steering pull, increases steering response, with better turn in and high speeddirectional control. Along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
There is (for front only) the inaccurate "one only position" offset fluted bolts. But these only offer .3 of one degree (1/8" / 3mm) and to change setting means labor intensive dis-assembly each time.
The K-MAC system offers 3 to 4 times the adjustment range with precise (ongoing) adjustment capability - adjustment being carried out accurately (under load direct on alignment rack).
It means also no more repeat trips to dealers or alignment shops trying to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve steering pull or premature, costly inner edge tire wear. The result of curb 'knock' damage worn bushings. load carrying, altering suspension height or fitting wide profile tires/wheels.
For the rear - there is available "Camber Arms" -
But these upper arms to reduce inner edge rear tire wear need to move top of tire outwards reducing essential clearance "top of tire to outer fender".
The K-MAC patented design bushings resolve this problem by adjusting lower, not upper arms (front and rear). They also replace the main (highest wearing) suspension bushes at the same time and have twice the load bearing area. With the front K-MAC bushings being 2axis/self aligning without the OEM oil filled/air voided bushes.
Result is improved brake/traction and steering response. Note - most aftermarket bushings (even though oil/air voids are deleted) wheel hop, loss of traction can increase. As today's multi link suspension arms are therefore restricted and can bind, lock up as they are prevented from travelling through their required arcs.
All kits come with instructions and bush extraction/insertion tubes (MB World Member Heiss Rod has kindly provided step by step picture sequence re front bush installation.
Watch: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-airmatic.html
See 2015 Catalog: http://K-mac.com/mercedes/
$480US Front kit
$480US Rear kit
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/attachments/c-class-w204/283700d1397109035t-need-drop-what-do-you-suggest-4.jpg)
Special promotion price delivery for MB World members USA/Canada $30 one kit or $40 for front and rear (average delivery time is 3 to 4 days). Payment can be made using Vis, Mastercard or PayPal.
THIS IS WHY WHEN IT COMES TO SUSPENSION WE SAW THE NEED TO PROVIDE PRECISELY ADJUSTABLE FRONT CAMBER AND CASTER AND REAR CAMBER (WITH EXTRA TOE) ADJUSTMENT KITS.
CURRENTLY OEM THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE ADJUSTMENT!
CAMBER:Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/traction.
CASTER: Resolves steering pull, increases steering response, with better turn in and high speeddirectional control. Along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
There is (for front only) the inaccurate "one only position" offset fluted bolts. But these only offer .3 of one degree (1/8" / 3mm) and to change setting means labor intensive dis-assembly each time.
The K-MAC system offers 3 to 4 times the adjustment range with precise (ongoing) adjustment capability - adjustment being carried out accurately (under load direct on alignment rack).
It means also no more repeat trips to dealers or alignment shops trying to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve steering pull or premature, costly inner edge tire wear. The result of curb 'knock' damage worn bushings. load carrying, altering suspension height or fitting wide profile tires/wheels.
For the rear - there is available "Camber Arms" -
But these upper arms to reduce inner edge rear tire wear need to move top of tire outwards reducing essential clearance "top of tire to outer fender".
The K-MAC patented design bushings resolve this problem by adjusting lower, not upper arms (front and rear). They also replace the main (highest wearing) suspension bushes at the same time and have twice the load bearing area. With the front K-MAC bushings being 2axis/self aligning without the OEM oil filled/air voided bushes.
Result is improved brake/traction and steering response. Note - most aftermarket bushings (even though oil/air voids are deleted) wheel hop, loss of traction can increase. As today's multi link suspension arms are therefore restricted and can bind, lock up as they are prevented from travelling through their required arcs.
All kits come with instructions and bush extraction/insertion tubes (MB World Member Heiss Rod has kindly provided step by step picture sequence re front bush installation.
Watch: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-airmatic.html
See 2015 Catalog: http://K-mac.com/mercedes/
$480US Front kit
$480US Rear kit
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/attachments/c-class-w204/283700d1397109035t-need-drop-what-do-you-suggest-4.jpg)
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/attachments/wheels-tires/286602d1399954231t-20-incurve-wheels-cls-sl-ferrari-grey-5.jpg)
Special promotion price delivery for MB World members USA/Canada $30 one kit or $40 for front and rear (average delivery time is 3 to 4 days). Payment can be made using Vis, Mastercard or PayPal.
#35
Senior Member
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Thread Starter
Love this forum
Gator,
Great hearing from you. Yeah things have been busy and life got in the way so I haven't had a lot of time to really contribute to the forum. Back now and you really hit the nail spot on, the good natured spirited debate of this thread really is helping me, and I hope others down the road make a decision on this topic.
Everyone,
Thanks up front once again I don't know why I am surprised but this debate really shows this forum at it's best and I really appreciate it.
Gator,
My goal has nothing to do with looks. As usual, I am using the opportunity of something wearing out, tires, to make a performance upgrade in the car. In this case better handling and traction. Not looking to replicate the set up of a track car, as some have pointed out, its a cab and never going on a track. That said I am looking to take some of the experience of others here in the tire, wheel and suspension area to get the most out of my application, better handling and traction for a daily driver that sees mostly highway miles and yet has to negotiate neighborhood speed bumps. and parking ot barriers, etc. First step, tire and wheel setup, with new shocks all around. In a perfect world I think that adding the Euro spec spring and spring pad package setup at the same time would complete this but still have not gotten a response back from Gert on price and availability so that piece of the puzzle may have to wait.
At this point you guys have helped narrow the tire choices and wheel sizes. Again, for tires looking at going with: Front 235/40 18, Rear 265/35 18. I have been hunting on line for staggered fitment packages on wheels in front 18x8 and 18x9 rear and either they have crappy selections or the fitments are like 18x 8.5 and 18x9 or 18x8 and 18x 9.5 for those tires. Suggestions on good sources for staggered fitment wheel packages would be appreciated. Thanks again. You guys are great.
Great hearing from you. Yeah things have been busy and life got in the way so I haven't had a lot of time to really contribute to the forum. Back now and you really hit the nail spot on, the good natured spirited debate of this thread really is helping me, and I hope others down the road make a decision on this topic.
Everyone,
Thanks up front once again I don't know why I am surprised but this debate really shows this forum at it's best and I really appreciate it.
Gator,
My goal has nothing to do with looks. As usual, I am using the opportunity of something wearing out, tires, to make a performance upgrade in the car. In this case better handling and traction. Not looking to replicate the set up of a track car, as some have pointed out, its a cab and never going on a track. That said I am looking to take some of the experience of others here in the tire, wheel and suspension area to get the most out of my application, better handling and traction for a daily driver that sees mostly highway miles and yet has to negotiate neighborhood speed bumps. and parking ot barriers, etc. First step, tire and wheel setup, with new shocks all around. In a perfect world I think that adding the Euro spec spring and spring pad package setup at the same time would complete this but still have not gotten a response back from Gert on price and availability so that piece of the puzzle may have to wait.
At this point you guys have helped narrow the tire choices and wheel sizes. Again, for tires looking at going with: Front 235/40 18, Rear 265/35 18. I have been hunting on line for staggered fitment packages on wheels in front 18x8 and 18x9 rear and either they have crappy selections or the fitments are like 18x 8.5 and 18x9 or 18x8 and 18x 9.5 for those tires. Suggestions on good sources for staggered fitment wheel packages would be appreciated. Thanks again. You guys are great.
Last edited by City Rat; 06-01-2015 at 12:10 AM.
#36
Super Member
Gator,
Great hearing from you. Yeah things have been busy and life got in the way so I haven't had a lot of time to really contribute to the forum. Back now and you really hit the nail spot on, the good natured spirited debate of this thread really is helping me, and I hope others down the road make a decision on this topic.
Everyone,
Thanks up front once again I don't know why I am surprised but this debate really shows this forum at it's best and I really appreciate it.
Gator,
My goal has nothing to do with looks. As usual, I am using the opportunity of something wearing out, tires, to make a performance upgrade in the car. In this case better handling and traction. Not looking to replicate the set up of a track car, as some have pointed out, its a cab and never going on a track. That said I am looking to take some of the experience of others here in the tire, wheel and suspension area to get the most out of my application, better handling and traction for a daily driver that sees mostly highway miles and yet has to negotiate neighborhood speed bumps. and parking ot barriers, etc. First step, tire and wheel setup, with new shocks all around. In a perfect world I think that adding the Euro spec spring and spring pad package setup at the same time would complete this but still have not gotten a response back from Gert on price and availability so that piece of the puzzle may have to wait.
At this point you guys have helped narrow the tire choices and wheel sizes. Again, for tires looking at going with: Front 235/40 18, Rear 265/35 18. I have been hunting on line for staggered fitment packages on wheels in front 18x8 and 18x9 rear and either they have crappy selections or the fitments are like 18x 8.5 and 18x9 or 18x8 and 18x 9.5 for those tires. Suggestions on good sources for staggered fitment wheel packages would be appreciated. Thanks again. You guys are great.
Great hearing from you. Yeah things have been busy and life got in the way so I haven't had a lot of time to really contribute to the forum. Back now and you really hit the nail spot on, the good natured spirited debate of this thread really is helping me, and I hope others down the road make a decision on this topic.
Everyone,
Thanks up front once again I don't know why I am surprised but this debate really shows this forum at it's best and I really appreciate it.
Gator,
My goal has nothing to do with looks. As usual, I am using the opportunity of something wearing out, tires, to make a performance upgrade in the car. In this case better handling and traction. Not looking to replicate the set up of a track car, as some have pointed out, its a cab and never going on a track. That said I am looking to take some of the experience of others here in the tire, wheel and suspension area to get the most out of my application, better handling and traction for a daily driver that sees mostly highway miles and yet has to negotiate neighborhood speed bumps. and parking ot barriers, etc. First step, tire and wheel setup, with new shocks all around. In a perfect world I think that adding the Euro spec spring and spring pad package setup at the same time would complete this but still have not gotten a response back from Gert on price and availability so that piece of the puzzle may have to wait.
At this point you guys have helped narrow the tire choices and wheel sizes. Again, for tires looking at going with: Front 235/40 18, Rear 265/35 18. I have been hunting on line for staggered fitment packages on wheels in front 18x8 and 18x9 rear and either they have crappy selections or the fitments are like 18x 8.5 and 18x9 or 18x8 and 18x 9.5 for those tires. Suggestions on good sources for staggered fitment wheel packages would be appreciated. Thanks again. You guys are great.
Let us know what you decide on
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#37
Senior Member
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Thread Starter
BTW I found this review and summary of testing of UHP A/S tires. the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3s came out pretty well on this against some of the other tires discussed in the thread. At least one of you PM'd me with that exact suggestion.
#38
Senior Member
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Thread Starter
Guys,
I just wanted to get a quick verification from you on wheel size. I finally found an outfit which has a decent selection of staggered wheels and tires but in the particular wheel that I'm looking at instead of 18x8 in the front and 18x 9 in the rear they have 18x8.5 in the front and 18x9.5 in the rear. They say that the additional 1/4 inch on the inside and outside will not cause wheel rub when turning from stop to stop but the wheels tires will be "right at the fender". Is anyone running 18x 8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear? how does this affect handling any problems with rubbing either in turning or with the car weighted down with people? (Not that happens ever but I don't want any rude surprises.) Still looking to run the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 235/40/18 front, 265/35/18 rear. Thanks.
I just wanted to get a quick verification from you on wheel size. I finally found an outfit which has a decent selection of staggered wheels and tires but in the particular wheel that I'm looking at instead of 18x8 in the front and 18x 9 in the rear they have 18x8.5 in the front and 18x9.5 in the rear. They say that the additional 1/4 inch on the inside and outside will not cause wheel rub when turning from stop to stop but the wheels tires will be "right at the fender". Is anyone running 18x 8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear? how does this affect handling any problems with rubbing either in turning or with the car weighted down with people? (Not that happens ever but I don't want any rude surprises.) Still looking to run the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 235/40/18 front, 265/35/18 rear. Thanks.
#40
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His generic answer worries me. 1/4" more on the in/outside? Sure, if the offset is X. Otherwise, it could be 3/4" further outward compared to stock rims for all we know. All about offsets.
#41
Senior Member
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Thread Starter
#42
First post been a member for a while have a 320 CDI great car but not much interest in modifications except GDE tune. Just purchased a amazing 01 CLK55 a couple of days ago. Has 18" AMG wheels 8" front 9" rear, currently has 225/40/18 front and 275/35/18 no issues with rubbing. Currently has pilot super sports which I would replace with the same when time comes. Would like to have 40 series front and back as I worried about damaging very pricey rims. Question is can I use 265/40/18 on rear or need to go to 255/40/18? Plan to stay with 225/40/18 on front. Thanks
#43
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You know that 40 is a percent and not just 40mm yes? A 225/40 and 265/40 have very different sidewalls.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Use that to figure out tire/sidewall heights.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Use that to figure out tire/sidewall heights.