But then what does that mean Zayed bro?


Will I run at a risk later where my pistons will push out of the calliper? That's when the pads are down by less than near service or what? I was looking for those dimensions and I found on another post some height differences on the CLK55 disc and C55 disc.


How'd your brother use the single piece rotors or does he have the same dimension ones, just in single piece?

 

Khan,

I measure C55 & CLK55 pads, they're almost same face dia., "which touches the Rotor surface":-

(51mm Center) and (58mm) Edge,,

which means; 1-piece Rotor should fit with 2-piece Rotor pads without any issue..!!

ZAYED,,

 

Ahsant but the problem is it wont make full contact with the disc due to it being 5mm wider than the CLK one. What happens is the pad covers only 170mm of the disc surface instead of the entire 172.5mm surface. I don't have a problem with that. All that will happen is that I will have this section on the inner side of the disc that will having an untouched or non brake pad wear surface.
I am finding it hard to even find places where I can get my old disc skimmed. People are telling me they cannot skim perforated/drilled disc.


You said you guys used on an SLK55 the bigger one piece disc. Am I correct by saying you guys have the same 6piston calliper like mine on the front brother Zayed?
If so, how did you get the disc to work coz like I said, mine bites on the reinforcing bridge section that goes between the calliper. If I tighten my 10mm allen key bolts down then the disc wont turn unless I really force them. You can then see where it picks up on this reinforcing bridge section or hardware of the calliper.

 

MB used 1-piece Rotor with 4-pot calipers on first gen. of "CLK55 & SLK55", then replace them with 6-pot calipers with 2-piece,

i'm not prefer to skimmed those perforated/drilled, that will weak the perforated line,(almost will be vanished),

5mm is NOT that big, maybe it will fit, but can't assure that, should to try it first,,

spaced the caliper little bit far is so simple, (same theory of CLK63 set-up), just need a longer allen-key bolt..!

ZAYED,,

 

Replied above

 

So instead of using a normal silver steel washer you would find at a hardware store, I used 0.3mm thick steel washers which eliminated the usage of 8 of the other washers as I have now only utilised 4. I now have enough brake clearance from the disc to the reinforcing bridge and have added Loctite blue to my threads on the #10 allen key head bolts that mount the calliper to the bracket onto the steering knuckle. I have like 2mm space from the outer rim of the disc inner hub section to the inner edge of the brake pad. I highly doubt the pad is gona move about but I will check this at all times till I either skim my old rotors or manage to save up and buy new ones from the agents.


Anyone know what I can use to cover my wheels from my dog? I know people use plastic bottles filled with water to keep dogs away from their lawn but I dono. I haven't seen wheel covers for this and my car cover is huge however I think his urine still penetrates it.


I will later in the course of today upload photos of how I removed the pads for the rear and front. The disc I think is straight forward, so didn't take photos of it. Anyhow luckily me, mine were not "frozen" to the hub and required no hammering of any sort.

 

Photos??

 

Bump

 

I am having trouble uploading photos or even posting a reply via my work laptop. Dont know whats going on. Will see if I can mail the edited pics to my phone and upload them from it.

 

First remove some of the brake fluid just so you can make room for the new fluid.

 

Then back off the bleed nipple above the calliper





Then connect a brake bleed bottle and pipe. I got mine from a spare shop.






Then tap out the hardware pins using a drift and hammer.








Pins removed and plate being removed.





This is the mounting hardware for the brake pads at the rear. The plate is different in length and design for the front.





Pull and press on the brake pads to enable the old fluid to be pushed out through the bleeding nozzle as well as to allow the calliper pistons to retract into the calliper





You could fill some fluid into the small container to prevent air bubbles from inserting into the brake system or just get someone to press the pedal after topping the fluid and closing the brake booster housing but ensuring the brake bleeder nipple is still loose and the new pads are inserted and all mounting hardware is fixed to the calliper





Here is the calliper with new pads and sensor. Note the sensor plug is held in by a bolt. You will need to undo it and move the cable with the mounting for the sensor away whilst working on the calliper. I didnt have to replace my disc on the rear as they were still in usable condition.

 

Front is pretty much the same. Just follow the steps listed for the rear and make referrence here to see what differs. Again start by removing some old fluid to top up with new fluid later.





Uncover the bleed nipples. Note there are two up front for our 6 pistons callipers. One on top of each side. I backed off this one and pressed the pistons back. Then I closed it and opened the other side and pressed the pad on that side in. As mentioned you can then have someone press on the brakes after you have topped up new fluid and closed the reservoir and inserted new pads with hardware so as to bleed the calliper and the brake system of any dirty fluid using the hose line and container.





Remove the bolt mounting the sensor cable to the calliper. Mine was already half missing. Guess they did this at the dealership prior to me buying the car. You can then use a tiny flat screw driver to gently lift the tab in the square on that sensor connector and pull on the sensor to remove it.













With the pins removed using your drift and hammer, the backing plate can be removed. Remember the direction when mounting it again and try to align it on the outer surface of the disc during reinstallation.





The size 13 bolt is at the end of this part.

 

Here you can see the bolt being held in front. Then you can press or pull on the pads to retract the pistons into the calliper body. Thereafter you can remove the two sized 10 allen key head bolts to get the calliper body off. They are quite tight as they too have a coat of Loctite Blue on them. I mounted it aside using a cable tie around the upper section of the strut. I then cleaned the two allen key head bolts threads and reapplied Loctite blue on them. Lastly remove the tiny torx screw that is holding the callipers and clean it as well as add Loctite Blue to it. I torqued it to 10nm but found turning it a lil more worked as well so maybe 13nm???
After that, you will have performed your own brake pad and disc change for the W209 55.
As mentioned I used solid 1 piece 345mm rotors which made the steering heavier but works for me.

 

Excellent write-up Khan, Thankss for sharing,,

are you using 1-piece Rotors now..?, or you will keep those 2-piece Rotors(as pictured)..??

ZAYED,,

 

Shukran and Jazak brother. Love the photos with the info below but my data on my phone ran out so hence the last post has those. I don't have photos of the 1 piece on because it was passed maghrib time and I was frustrated because I couldn't get them to work after spending so much on the rotors. So was trying to decide whether to machine that reinforcing bridge or use spacers and longer bolts which I ended up using. I do have one piece rotors on now brother. Those 2 piece rotors I have wrapped in plastic after cleaning them up and stored in a box. Will see later on in life if I can skim them down a bit. Was quoted R350 each at a place somewhere here near my area.


Honestly speaking apart from the heavier steering feel, I don't notice any other difference. The car brakes superbly now with no brake shudder nor any squeaks. I used copper compound on the back of the bads but a very very light film/layer that was hardly noticeable as they do come with their own squeak pads stuck to them soooo.....

 

Very good,

you can also get separate Rotor Ring and use it with old 2-piece Hat, that will save $$$$..

ZAYED,,

 

I saw that as alternative. Will see later in life when hopefully the Rand if ever will be in a more favourable value than now.

 

the chamfering is gone but the slits still cut
$1000 will cover most of a rear seal replacement.......

 

Apple Vinegar works for ridding animal territorial ceremonies.

Nice post, Gator

 

Are the 6 pot front/ 4 pot rear brakes stock on a CLK55? I didn't think so.

 

Stock for CLK 55 Mark 2

 

By Mk2 you mean post facelift? 2006+

Do you know if the Mk1 CLK55 (W209 pre 2006) had vented rear rotors and used a 2 pot fixed caliper (similar in appearance to the stock rears of non AMG models. I'm wondering if there were any models out there that had the same rear caliper as solid rear rotor base models but with enough clearance for a thicker vented rotor.

 

As i know; Clk55 AMG from "4/2004 till 10/2006", should have 6-pot/4-pot calipers,

Clk500/55 non-AMG brakes got Rear vented Rotors with ordinary 2-pot for sure, but not drilled,,

if you need direct bolt-on vented/drilled Rear Rotors, you can go with "04/06" Clk55/Slk55 or "99-02" R129 Sl500/600 Rear calipers with Rotors..!

;ZAYED;

 

Reporting again here for future referrence and if others may want to opt for the same route as I have. Till date no issues with the car except a brake pad change November 2018.


After changing the pad at the front, 7 months later I had this audible screeching noise whilst in traffic upon braking at very low speeds. I inspected my brakes again thinking I did something wrong and lubed up the pad surface between piston and friction backing area. Helped for lil while then few days later and it was back.

At first I thought maybe its the brake pad wear/holding pins so I ordered new and fitted those as well. Dont have a photo of them new but there is a photo above I uploaded showing them with the metal spring backing plate for the pads.
The brembo pins from Mercedez had an instruction manual showing how to replace the pins as well as pads and torque specs enclosed in the new pin packaging. They refer to the front brakes on my car as type B calipers.


They mention the bolt in picture G above numbered 5 needs to be retorqued to 27÷33 Nm for the M8x1.25 thread bolt. I think they meant to use this ~ approximately instead of this ÷ division sign between the torque values.



None the less few days later same issue again. I think this was a result of the disc surface not being smoothe for the new pad I used some months ago.



So off came the disc and in for a skim. Refitted them afterwards and bled the system at front with new MB fluid and all is now peachy.



Still happy with the C55 one piece rotors, just forgot how much heavier they are compared to the 2 piece CLK55 rotors.


NB to all with perforated disc, every now and then clean the drillings out with an o-ring pick and blast them with shop air or at a gas filling station just use pressurized air. This will prevent crack formation as the drillings will be cleared and the disc can "breathe" every now and then after abuse. I cleaned out both my rotors before fitting them on the car as well as used a soft wire brush on the mounting points on the hub and caliper to remove all dust then wiped with a cloth.

 

Drilled rotors are pretty much just for looks. The cooling is done through the lateral venting in the middle of the disc. The drilled holes used to be used to disperse off gassing from the pads. New pads dont off gas thus no need for the holes.