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Ive done the mounts on a 208 and its not that hard. If you have a lift it pretty easy. if you end up keeping the car get the newer e55 mounts. same price and they last a bit longer.
hmmmm good to know next time I need to replace. Yes! if there are poly or solid mounts available; I would really like to know where?! Way I see it they would pay for themselves!
-The lower radiator hose came in and was installed. New MB coolant was added, the car was heat cycled, no leaks were observed, and fluid was added as needed.
-The Coolant Temp. Sensor was replaced and my temp. gauge works again!
-The serpentine belt was replaced.
-The broken smog check valve was removed from the head, and a replacement was installed.
The car is back on the road and all seems to be well. I did get one P0105 code, but that may have been triggered before the vacuum lines were properly secured pending the check valve debacle. All that's left is an oil change. I'll probably do that in about a week.
New CTS and lower radiator hose.
Old coolant out.
Oops, it was green.
This was the culprit.
About to install new lower radiator hose.
New CTS. One of the previous owners broke the connector and tried to seal it with some sort of gasket maker. The blower/air pump/whatever needs to come out in order to do this job.
Pump is out.
CTS installed.
Now onto the check valve. I couldn't get it out on my own, and it wouldn't hold with Permatex, so I went to a local shop for help.
The managed to get out the broken end of the original valve by threading it. They also installed the new serpentine belt.
The key hole for the trunk below the trunk lid, is also a button. It pushes in.
I did not know that for years.
do any of you guys know if the rubber grommet of the trunk button has its own part # or is it part of the whole keylock assembly? my grommet is torn and i havent been able to find just that rubber grommet part.
Best ET = 13.5
Best Trap = 105.32
DA ranged from 13xx to 10xx
60 foot times ranged from 2.08 to 2.3 - slower as the night got colder
ALL runs were done with traction control on, and shifting in tiptronic, along with a CEL for a supposed vacuum leak somewhere. With DA correction, it works out to 13.4@106.5. Not bad!
Better times would come with better grip and the ability to tq brake more off the line and disable traction aids. Also, there is a noticeable difference when the car is heat soaked with it losing about 1.5mph. The radiator, MB coolant, a few of the coolant hoses, and end tank are new. It's also running WaterWetter, so I'm not sure WHY it's losing so much as there should be no restriction anywhere in the system. Either way, I'm not disappointed.
Last edited by 03basesedan; 06-09-2016 at 12:16 AM.
Best ET = 13.5
Best Trap = 105.32
DA ranged from 13xx to 10xx
60 foot times ranged from 2.08 to 2.3 - slower as the night got colder
ALL runs were done with traction control on, and shifting in tiptronic, along with a CEL for a supposed vacuum leak somewhere. With DA correction, it works out to 13.4@106.5. Not bad!
Better times would come with better grip and the ability to tq brake more off the line and disable traction aids. Also, there is a noticeable difference when the car is heat soaked with it losing about 1.5mph. The radiator, MB coolant, a few of the coolant hoses, and end tank are new. It's also running WaterWetter, so I'm not sure WHY it's losing so much as there should be no restriction anywhere in the system. Either way, I'm not disappointed.
Those are great times.
Did you get your vehicle weight when u were there?
Interesting maybe the traction control on was helping. On my runs it was always off, I was getting slower times than you. But your 60 foot times are not any better than mine with traction control off. But you are getting 1-1.5mph more trap speed.
My best times were with less torque braking. Launching at 800 Rpm was getting me faster times than launching at 1800 rpm. See my other post about drag times for more info.
Those are great times.
Did you get your vehicle weight when u were there?
Interesting maybe the traction control on was helping. On my runs it was always off, I was getting slower times than you. But your 60 foot times are not any better than mine with traction control off. But you are getting 1-1.5mph more trap speed.
My best times were with less torque braking. Launching at 800 Rpm was getting me faster times than launching at 1800 rpm. See my other post about drag times for more info.
Also, what is DA?
Ahh, yes, I meant to get my weight, but forgot to. There was a station right before the time slip hut. I didn't remove anything, but ran with about a quarter tank. I can't open my trunk, so no easy way to get the spare tire out : -)
I'll upload the full slips later today, or tomorrow. I started losing traction even as the temps only dropped 10 degrees. My tires are new, and I did burnouts before every run. Even a little slip resulted in a bump from 2.0x to 2.2x/2.3. TC may have helped? I launched between 900 and 1800, depending on the run. Ideally I'd like to load up the torque converter and let it eat. I've heard some roll into the throttle off the hit; that's an idea to consider as well. My times didn't vary too greatly even though my 60 foot increased. I still went 13.5-13.6, so that's confusing. The first two runs were heat soaked b/c I drove right off of the highway into tech and then the staging lanes. The third run was after a brief cool down period and resulted in my best trap, yet not as good of a 60 foot. I think the runs where the car was cooler all had worse 60 foot times due to the cooling launch pad surface resulting in less traction, but the higher 1/8 and 1/4 mi trap speeds almost equalized the 60 foot penalty, so the overall times were similar. Had I been able to replicate a 2.08x, I would've gotten somewhere around a 13.4, uncorrected. The rule of thumb is .1 in 60 foot = .2 in 1/4mi time, so my guess is a bit conservative, but who knows.
DA is density altitude which is a combo of elevation, air temp, and humidity corrected for variations from standard pressure. Running in a DA of 1300 means that the elevation and air conditions are equivalent to you running your car at 1300 feet above sea level. The track itself is at an elevation of about 550 feet, but the air conditions made my CLK perform as if it was running at 1300, which obviously compromised performance a little. The corrected figures are quicker and faster as they correct to what one's vehicle would run at sea level.
I tried to find your post but couldn't. Can you link it?
Another factor that scrubbed some speed was the 2-3 shift. No matter what rpm I tried, it always felt slow and like it momentarily dulled momentum. Nothing we can do about that unless we modify the valve body, and that's NOT happening. My tranny doesn't slip, the conductor plate and pilot bush are new, as well as new MB fluid and filter, so it should run about as well as any 104k mile Benz tranny can.
Originally Posted by insame1
Isn't that for when you are not running coolant? I have seen horror stories about mixing stuff into Mercedes coolant.
I've heard the same horror stories, but I haven't been able to find actual concrete proof for MB vehicles.
Water wetter can bond with some of the polymers(?) in certain cooling systems and cause a slimy adhesions to the insides of the coolant hoses, etc., or it can cause overflow tanks to crack if they're made of acrylic materials. Also, water wetter is best when used with water, not coolant, but I've used it in many a car with fantastic results. I learned of it from the '07-'09 GT500 crowd; they have big heat issues and they swear by it.
My track times confirm this, but the M113 heat soaks like a pig, and it does so rather quickly. It is consistent when it's heat soaked, but hot lapping caused me to lose 1.5mph (~15hp over 2 runs). That's a lot, and I haven't seen those kinds of decreases in most other vehicles I've tracked; this type of heat soak is similar to a turbo car with an undersized, or inadequate intercooler, or an LS2 GTO, lol. Again, almost all of the system is new, and the fans and tstat work as they should, so yeah. I'd think an aluminum block/heads engine would handle it a little better, but maybe it's the metal intake manifold. Actually, that could be it. My old '03 G35 had a metal plenum and that heat soaked pretty bad at the track as well. The newer cars I've taken to the track all have plastic plenums and that probably made a big difference in repeatable peak performance.
I suspected this would happen, so I made the decision to use water wetter when I redid the cooling system. I can confirm that the temps ARE lower, and it does increase the time window before the engine heatsoaks. I don't have OBD data to support these conclusions, but my temp gauge reads lower temps with water wetter, than without, both around town and on the highway. Unfortunately, after running the car hard, or hot lapping at the track and idling in the pits, heatsoak is unavoidable. We'll see if I experience any sort of issues, but I think it'll be fine.
Last edited by 03basesedan; 06-09-2016 at 11:53 AM.
I'm posting from my phone currently, will try to link the post later.
About torque converter.... we only have about a 1800 stall converter, when I tried to launch any higher the tires started to spin, would have to see if anyone has used a 3000 stall converter in these cars.
My car was 3630lbs, nothing removed and 3/8ths tank of gas. Also very near sea level, not high elevation. Also I had sticky autox tires which are grippy but have firm sidewalls. I posted my time slips in the thread. Just search my profile for threads I started and you will find it.
Also I found that the times were faster letting the car shift in auto mode, could not get it to shift as fast in manual. I think that's better for track and autox, but auto shifting is more reliable and efficient for drag.
Ahh, yes, I meant to get my weight, but forgot to. There was a station right before the time slip hut. I didn't remove anything, but ran with about a quarter tank. I can't open my trunk, so no easy way to get the spare tire out : -)
I'll upload the full slips later today, or tomorrow. I started losing traction even as the temps only dropped 10 degrees. My tires are new, and I did burnouts before every run. Even a little slip resulted in a bump from 2.0x to 2.2x/2.3. TC may have helped? I launched between 900 and 1800, depending on the run. Ideally I'd like to load up the torque converter and let it eat. I've heard some roll into the throttle off the hit; that's an idea to consider as well. My times didn't vary too greatly even though my 60 foot increased. I still went 13.5-13.6, so that's confusing. The first two runs were heat soaked b/c I drove right off of the highway into tech and then the staging lanes. The third run was after a brief cool down period and resulted in my best trap, yet not as good of a 60 foot. I think the runs where the car was cooler all had worse 60 foot times due to the cooling launch pad surface resulting in less traction, but the higher 1/8 and 1/4 mi trap speeds almost equalized the 60 foot penalty, so the overall times were similar. Had I been able to replicate a 2.08x, I would've gotten somewhere around a 13.4, uncorrected. The rule of thumb is .1 in 60 foot = .2 in 1/4mi time, so my guess is a bit conservative, but who knows.
DA is density altitude which is a combo of elevation, air temp, and humidity corrected for variations from standard pressure. Running in a DA of 1300 means that the elevation and air conditions are equivalent to you running your car at 1300 feet above sea level. The track itself is at an elevation of about 550 feet, but the air conditions made my CLK perform as if it was running at 1300, which obviously compromised performance a little. The corrected figures are quicker and faster as they correct to what one's vehicle would run at sea level.
I tried to find your post but couldn't. Can you link it?
Another factor that scrubbed some speed was the 2-3 shift. No matter what rpm I tried, it always felt slow and like it momentarily dulled momentum. Nothing we can do about that unless we modify the valve body, and that's NOT happening. My tranny doesn't slip, the conductor plate and pilot bush are new, as well as new MB fluid and filter, so it should run about as well as any 104k mile Benz tranny can.
I've heard the same horror stories, but I haven't been able to find actual concrete proof for MB vehicles.
Water wetter can bond with some of the polymers(?) in certain cooling systems and cause a slimy adhesions to the insides of the coolant hoses, etc., or it can cause overflow tanks to crack if they're made of acrylic materials. Also, water wetter is best when used with water, not coolant, but I've used it in many a car with fantastic results. I learned of it from the '07-'09 GT500 crowd; they have big heat issues and they swear by it.
My track times confirm this, but the M113 heat soaks like a pig, and it does so rather quickly. It is consistent when it's heat soaked, but hot lapping caused me to lose 1.5mph (~15hp over 2 runs). That's a lot, and I haven't seen those kinds of decreases in most other vehicles I've tracked; this type of heat soak is similar to a turbo car with an undersized, or inadequate intercooler, or an LS2 GTO, lol. Again, almost all of the system is new, and the fans and tstat work as they should, so yeah. I'd think an aluminum block/heads engine would handle it a little better, but maybe it's the metal intake manifold. Actually, that could be it. My old '03 G35 had a metal plenum and that heat soaked pretty bad at the track as well. The newer cars I've taken to the track all have plastic plenums and that probably made a big difference in repeatable peak performance.
I suspected this would happen, so I made the decision to use water wetter when I redid the cooling system. I can confirm that the temps ARE lower, and it does increase the time window before the engine heatsoaks. I don't have OBD data to support these conclusions, but my temp gauge reads lower temps with water wetter, than without, both around town and on the highway. Unfortunately, after running the car hard, or hot lapping at the track and idling in the pits, heatsoak is unavoidable. We'll see if I experience any sort of issues, but I think it'll be fine.
If heat soak is your concern I would consider just water and water wetter at the track. Water has the best heat transfer of all coolant we add to the cars but it does not lubricate and can freeze in cold weather. I run a 80/20 mix of water to coolant and have never had an issue. I have also seen people wrap the air box is heat resistant foil.
Here's a pic of my slips. A bit late, I know. I also apologize for the poor quality
I also bit the bullet and ordered motor mounts and the tranny mount, and ordered a different lower dash panel for the driver's side. The one I have now isn't in the greatest shape.
Does anyone know the part number for the grille star? I'm having the hardest damn time finding it.
Last edited by 03basesedan; 07-01-2016 at 03:33 PM.
hey, i just updated my post about the drag strip, have my newest/fastest slip on there, very interesting to compare them with yours... its sort of hard to figure out whats the difference between my car and yours, as some times are similar when the 60' times are close but then also some are very different...
hey, i just updated my post about the drag strip, have my newest/fastest slip on there, very interesting to compare them with yours... its sort of hard to figure out whats the difference between my car and yours, as some times are similar when the 60' times are close but then also some are very different...
I saw! Those are much better and the trap is getting there!
I may go back after I do the motor mounts and an oil change. I'd like to find a day with decent DA, which may be difficult. Also, you ran at a strip about 2.5 hours from where I ran (Milan)! Small world!
Here are some updates with what's next for the car:
-Next Tuesday it'll get a once over by a Euro shop to get a handle on all of the areas that need attention
-->They'll install motor mounts, tranny mount, and do an oil change
-In the mean time, I need to address:
--> Trunk that won't open
--> A/C that feels like it needs a recharge
--> Stuck seat motor on passenger side seat (the one to move the seat forward and back, all else still works)
--> Dead left corner lamp bulb
--> CEL as a result of a vacuum leak, somewhere
--> Ash tray lid won't stay shut
--> Scratches on windshield and rear glass
--> Belts that are slow to retract
--> Need to replace star on grille
--> Replace lower dash panel (have a replacement)
--> Replace bulb/better connect bulb behind right side of speedo
--> Consider a light tint for the windows
--> Wet sand/full detail
These are small things, but I'd like to get most of them squared away. I am trying to sell the car, and haven't had much interest, even at $6,900 US.
Also, you ran at a strip about 2.5 hours from where I ran (Milan)! Small world! Dziner82 - nice, you must be in ohio or eastern indiana?
-->They'll install motor mounts, tranny mount, and do an oil change
-In the mean time, I need to address: Dziner82 - I had a buddy of mine help me do the tranny mount, took him about 20 mins, but motor mounts a little harder of course.
--> Trunk that won't open
--> A/C that feels like it needs a recharge My ac had the same issue, shop checked it out, they did recharge it and it blew cold, but found it had some sort of leak so i needed a new compressor, and need to do the receiver dryer when they replace that too... was gonna be too expensive so i bought the parts myself from FCP euro and will try to talk the shop into doing it with my parts since that saved me about $300 from the parts they quoted me, but its sill $400 in labor
--> Stuck seat motor on passenger side seat (the one to move the seat forward and back, all else still works) Dziner82 - I had this problem on my C43, turned out it was the seat adjustment switch in the door and not the motor. but actually it would go back but then just wouldnt return forward so we knew it wasnt the motor. then 2 years later the driver seat switch only worked intermittently and got worse and worse, they found that was caused by some relay in the door where it connected to the body... so many strange spots that can cause seat errors in these cars!!
--> Dead left corner lamp bulb
--> CEL as a result of a vacuum leak, somewhere
--> Ash tray lid won't stay shut
--> Scratches on windshield and rear glass
--> Belts that are slow to retract
--> Need to replace star on grille
--> Replace lower dash panel (have a replacement)
--> Replace bulb/better connect bulb behind right side of speedo Dziner83 - my bulb on the right side of speedo is burnt out... annoying but not peoblematic enough to fix it right now.
--> Consider a light tint for the windows
--> Wet sand/full detail Dziner82 - i did a paint restoration on my car shortly after i got it to buff out lots of small scratches, if fixed many of them but some were still too deep, it was great, after they did it i realized the car actually had metallic paint, i couldn't tell it was before that! haha
These are small things, but I'd like to get most of them squared away. I am trying to sell the car, and haven't had much interest, even at $6,900 US Yes these cars are much more money pits than my C43, i suppose it could be the past owners, but many of these things just seem like random failures that happen more on this car than the other. knowing what i know now i definitely overpaid for mine, probably by $2000, but hey when there is not 10,000 or more of a car, hell not even 5000 of these in the USA i guess we cant be too picky. mechanically mine seems to be pretty solid though. Anyone out there looking to buy one, don't pay over $10,000 for a w208CLK unless its literally has NOTHING wrong with it!
-->They'll install motor mounts, tranny mount, and do an oil change DONE
--> A/C that feels like it needs a recharge TRIED TO FIX W/RECHARGE, SORT OF WORKED
--> Dead left corner lamp bulb DONE
--> Wet sand/full detail SIMPLE WASH
I am picking up the car later today. The shop said the dead mounts had scraped through one of the ground wires, there was some bolt in the front suspension that was busted, but otherwise the car was in decent shape. I addressed those items and did the oil change, and will evaluate when I scoop it up.
05-12-2016, 05:10 PM
