karayjay

So is there a good way of testing a catalytic converter that is starting to get clogged but not enough to trip a check engine, engine light

I’ve lost power on acceleration and it’s not the mass airflow. It’s not the air pump even though getting them as CEL now I did test it today. The air pump secondary is working. I’m also getting an intake error. P140. P175. The air pump is working. The 175 concerns me. And the reason for that is she does burn oil so I’m wondering if that once a week blast of oil coming out of the exhaust that I see is starting to clog the passenger side cat because it’s cylinder one that’s leaking because the spark plug and the one get filed every month or so

Now we ran pix test and voltage test. They seem OK. Where whatever you give a gas, the graphs changed equally and when you let off the gas, it kind of straightened out.

It’s just a noticeable difference when you’re at a satellites and you give it gas compared to my other CLK I own two of them

Now, one thing that has been done about a month ago and this all started is I change the intake manifold because the famous bracket for the vacuum pumps broke. I’ve done quite a few of these at least 10. I also sprayed carburetor fluid while the car was wanting to see if that would affect an indicate in air leak, but there wasn’t one.

Now I’m thinking of deleting those two rear what I call resonators but I know they’re not and I know they’re not catalytic converters. I’m thinking of just putting a straight pipe there but I’m not sure what those things are and if they can get clogged at all.

So my original question is, is there another trick to test the right side cat that has the cylinder one slight oil leak that’s following the plugs

Or is it something else that’s causing the acceleration loss from a dead stop?

Plutoe

you have other issues
get the car short tested-------whats up bif

karayjay

I don’t even understand what that means. Get the short tested? That’s a very bizarre response.

So instead of waiting around, I did some more troubleshooting because getting answers sometimes take way too long here so I took the air pump relay off my other car, exact same model just four years newer and I took the mass airflow sensor off and now that they’re on the other car, it works fantastic so it must’ve been that aftermarket Amazon dog crap mass airflow sensor

What’s funny is I ordered another one on eBay for the car but when I installed it it ran like **** but when I installed it on my other car, it ran great. Don’t know why so I’m using that one after sacrificing mine to the other car.

I know it’s hard to keep up but in the end both cars are running fantastic now it could’ve just been that mass airflow sensor I purchased on Amazon during the intake manifold change I did on the 2006 CLK the screen broke so I figured I’d get a new one off of Amazon to save some money, but it might’ve gone to ****

Anyways, I’m happy now it was a simple fix. I tested the air pump. There’s tricks to that. I’m sure people know it.

I have to say I’m very fortunate because I have two exact same engines just a few years apart, so I have the luxury of swapping parts for tests

PJmak

Dont get MAF sensors of amazon. They are knock off Bosch brands and are crap.

What air pump are you talking about btw?

karayjay

Secondary air pump upfront in the engine that throws air into the air filters on top through a hose P0410

karayjay

i figure it once again Im surprised NO ONE here figure it out .... I came here for some guidance but any ways as I thought FUEL issue.
Clogged Fuel injectors and I figure out on my own an easy way to clean all six at once an it took 15 min and not the car is rocket off the line again.

karayjay

So, let me give you a clue because I’m surprised this YouTube video isn’t out on the Internet yet. Once again, I find myself figuring out my own fixes.

So, for some reason, no one has ever thought of this, except for me, apparently instead of removing every single injector at the risk of ruining an O-ring, at the risk of putting too much voltage for each injector to clean them individually I’ve got a simpler idea.

on the driver side fender, you will see the connection for the braided, stainless steel, fuel line connect to something that looks like a brake line. Right there you disconnect the braided hose from that line and you make your own connection going to the parts store and getting a brake line all you need is about 6 inches maybe seven you thread it into the stainless steel line that goes into your fuel rail.

now the brake line gets connected to a 5/16 hose. Would you then connect to any type of. Now I’ll leave it up to you to get creative here. What I did was I put the hose into a cap cutting a hole then I glued it waited overnight.


What you can do now is in between that 516 hose you fit in a small fuel pump that you can buy on Amazon for $10

then put the hose at the other end and put it into that Aynor you made you pour about 20 ounces of injector cleaner. You then put the key in the ignition, then connect power to that fuel pump once it starts vibrating. You try to start the car that will push injector cleaner into the fuel rail. Did you do this for about four cycles.

You disconnect everything reconnect your fuel line to the regular fuel line. The engine may run rough for about 20 seconds and you’ll see amazing results like I did.

The amount of time you save, and the risk of damaging O-rings, or putting too much voltage on a fuel injector, is worth it


All you need to purchase is the pump on Amazon for $10 about a foot of 5/16 hose small brake line set up at your local auto parts store. And the beauty of it is you can do this every six months.