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It's a daily driver April thru October. When the frost comes, I switch to my old and trusty 2002 ttX50, and a Cadillac V Coupe (both on 4 snows). My only "mod" is the dealer installed bluetooth. If you are going to buy one, I'd recommend you use it. That really lowers the "per mile" cost of ownership, and adds fun every day you get in. Service costs are not unreasonable (especially compared to Porsche). The dealer wants to sell me new front discs, but they feel absolutely fine and I haven't experienced any fade or vibration, so everything else is "as delivered". AS
The dealer wants to sell me new front discs, but they feel absolutely fine and I haven't experienced any fade or vibration, so everything else is "as delivered". AS
Dealer recommended I replace my front rotors as well when I had 33K miles on the car even though they felt fine and I have now put another 6K miles on the original rotors with no issues. I am thinking of getting a set of the evosport rotors on the theory that I will need to replace the rotors soon anyway and the OEM dealer prices are a joke.
The dealer rec is based on a statement of "measurement of thickness" of the disc. It's hard for me to accept throwing away discs that feel right, perform well, and don''t fade, wobble, or have excess pedal travel. When I wore out the discs on my 911tt, there was no question. But, if any of my race cars felt the way the BS does under braking, I'd race on those discs. It almost made me want to measure the discs myself, just to figure out if I was being BS'd.
CLK63 Black, E350 Wagon, Supercharged Denali, Lotus Elise, Tesla Model 3 Dual-Motor.
Originally Posted by alexander stemer
The dealer rec is based on a statement of "measurement of thickness" of the disc. It's hard for me to accept throwing away discs that feel right, perform well, and don''t fade, wobble, or have excess pedal travel. When I wore out the discs on my 911tt, there was no question. But, if any of my race cars felt the way the BS does under braking, I'd race on those discs. It almost made me want to measure the discs myself, just to figure out if I was being BS'd.
Alex -
In 2003' I brought my leased 2001 CLK55 into the Dealer for brake pads & warped rotors (2 days at Watkins Glen). They would not trim the rotors saying it was not allowed by AMG. I then explained, it's a leased vehicle cut them! After that exchange Mercedes provided the new rotors at no cost to complete the job.
'94 NSX,'99 NSX Z,'12 C63 Black Series (Prior: '07 E63, '08 CLK63 Black Series,'14 E63-S & 16 C63-S)
Originally Posted by ecampbell
I have a dozen exotics with similar mileage....when I get my SLS black series it will be the same story.
Thank you. I appreciate the information. That makes more sense since you have so many cars. How does the CLK63 Black Series stack up against your other cars?
Anyone want to comment on what average maintenance costs are? I tried searching? I'm considering getting rid of my 91 Diablo and 05 C230 and picking up a CLK63 BS. I want something more fun for a regular driver instead of just a weekend car. I tried searching but didn't pop up with much.
I don't think my car has ever cost over $1000/year, except in the year I replaced brake pads. It is much less expensive than my 02 Porsche ttX50. Has anybody had a different experience?
I don't think my car has ever cost over $1000/year, except in the year I replaced brake pads. It is much less expensive than my 02 Porsche ttX50. Has anybody had a different experience?
Thanks! I know the B service on my c230 is about 450 and the A service is about 250. What do the run for the CLK BS?
2008 CLK63 Black Series 2012 C63 Black Series 2014 SLS Black Series
Just broke 10,000 miles in October. That's just over five years of ownership, with the cost of the car and mods that's about $30 per mile not including cost of race fuel, about 9,000 of those miles were run on race fuel ouch
58k miles on factory everything except valve cover gaskets, tires, engine mounts and ashtray light bulb, very reliable and still drives like new after 3 years of ownership.