Passenger side higher after front strut installed
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
'13 CLS550; '21 G550; '16 GL450 Formerly - '03 CLK320, '11 ML350, '09 E350
Passenger side higher after front strut installed
I've replaced numerous airmatic parts over the years but this is my first time replacing a front strut and only did the driver side. I understand they should be replaced in pairs, but both were replaced a little over 2 years ago and driver side started leaking just after warranty period. So I replaced the driver side and after I drove it a bit, I noticed the passenger side was significantly higher. Not just the front but the rear too, so the whole car leans. I've cycled sport/comfort/raise to see if that would fix it and it hasn't.
I've read posts that said the ride height sensors needed to be calibrated and others that said it should level itself out and could be a valve block issue.
Without throwing parts at it or taking it somewhere for diagnostics that won't help, do I need to have the sensors recalibrated?
I had also installed the kmac adjustable camber bolt setup in the front and thought it initially could be the alignment throwing it off (since the alignment was way off). Took it to a good alignment shop and was not the issue, nor could they really alignment it with the height differences.
I've read posts that said the ride height sensors needed to be calibrated and others that said it should level itself out and could be a valve block issue.
Without throwing parts at it or taking it somewhere for diagnostics that won't help, do I need to have the sensors recalibrated?
I had also installed the kmac adjustable camber bolt setup in the front and thought it initially could be the alignment throwing it off (since the alignment was way off). Took it to a good alignment shop and was not the issue, nor could they really alignment it with the height differences.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 26
Likes: 10
From: North DFW metroplex
CLS 550 4Matic 2012
Hey RC,
Ive replace the riders side front on mine (and both rear), and had a similar problem when I installed a new rear. When I did the front right strut I has access to xentry, so I don't know if it is requried for this or not, but there was a sequence of events I had to do right after install to make sure it was calibrated.
Basicially it went:
(with driver side door open)
Reverse ~15ft
Drive forward to starting point
repeat 3 times
I did that 3 times and then took it for a test drive, where it was fine. When I had the issue I replaced the valve block before hoping it was the problem (would've saved a lot of $$ if it was), but its worth doing anyway. They aren't that much for the part, and the solenoids can just wear out overtime, especially if they are compensating for dropping or haven't been done before. For what its worth I've been using the apremium block problem free for about 9 months, though I imagine you get what you pay for. The block is very easy to replace, its right under the rear bumper, should be on the left side (atleast for the 4matic). You can see it just by laying down without even jacking up the car, though I'd recommend putting it on stands and airing it out if you have a 2 way OBD II tool (I use my friends Youcanic).
Otherwise it could be that its getting used to the height. It took a few days for my car to be fully level again after fixing an improper rear install without the help of the youcanic.
Hope this helped!
Ive replace the riders side front on mine (and both rear), and had a similar problem when I installed a new rear. When I did the front right strut I has access to xentry, so I don't know if it is requried for this or not, but there was a sequence of events I had to do right after install to make sure it was calibrated.
Basicially it went:
(with driver side door open)
Reverse ~15ft
Drive forward to starting point
repeat 3 times
I did that 3 times and then took it for a test drive, where it was fine. When I had the issue I replaced the valve block before hoping it was the problem (would've saved a lot of $$ if it was), but its worth doing anyway. They aren't that much for the part, and the solenoids can just wear out overtime, especially if they are compensating for dropping or haven't been done before. For what its worth I've been using the apremium block problem free for about 9 months, though I imagine you get what you pay for. The block is very easy to replace, its right under the rear bumper, should be on the left side (atleast for the 4matic). You can see it just by laying down without even jacking up the car, though I'd recommend putting it on stands and airing it out if you have a 2 way OBD II tool (I use my friends Youcanic).
Otherwise it could be that its getting used to the height. It took a few days for my car to be fully level again after fixing an improper rear install without the help of the youcanic.
Hope this helped!
