When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dynasty wrote: "Did you go with the wider tires than stock"
Yeah, TireRack guy told be I could go to 295 without problems. Sounded like their standard answer to everyone though, from Vega to Volga. I should have taken the time to research this forum, to see what others had done. Just didn't feel like it that day, I guess. I did go up to 295's in the rear. Kept the front stock.
I'm wondering if the wider tire has something to do with the ride quality being better.
anyone know if these are reputable? Looks very simple and they offer a different way to do the rear.
Problem with these is you'd have to disconnect one end of the link every time you want to make an adjustment which would make setup a real pain. Also, with them being plastic, I wouldn't want to be popping them on and off much.
That looks good. Are those the stock amg 19" painted gloss black?
Also how much did you lower it? Calipers look nice also.
thank you, I prob dropped a total 1 1/2". That is the car on sport 2 setting. The wheels are 20" kmc district.
I also have 15mm spacers all around. Calipers are Porsche acid green. I also painted all trim black I'll post some pics.
thank you, I prob dropped a total 1 1/2". That is the car on sport 2 setting. The wheels are 20" kmc district.
I also have 15mm spacers all around. Calipers are Porsche acid green. I also painted all trim black I'll post some pics.
Nice I've been looking for some good gloss black good concavity also.
Dropped mine today too. I made my own adjustable links for the front for less than £25 (GBP). Front is sweet, but the back needs to go lower. I dropped the rear with the washer technique, but it didn’t have much effect. I removed the rear link and tried to make an adjustable link but I couldn’t make it small enough with the parts that I had. It really is a pain in the *** to be that link in and out on the driveway!
I think I’ll be removing the washers and elongating the holes in the subframe tomorrow.
New guy....but a motorhead...just bought a 2018 CLS550 and am giving myself an education. As a racer and a machinist I'll tell you that making your own probably is a bad idea, as is the washer idea - but I also suspect the rationale that the bags will wear out with links versus an electronic option sounds like somebody pushing for electronic, because the bag doesn't know why it's being raised or lowered, and all geometry stays the same with either system (or is there something I don't know...feel free to educate me but both just run the bags in static or variable modes depending on which way you go. Anyway this is from a site where somebody made the adjuster a turnbuckle so you dont have to take out the links to adjust them (just like our race boat):
HOW IT WORKS Cars that have Airmatic and ABC type suspension are fitted with ride height sensors that are mounted to the chassis and connected by linkages to the suspension wishbones and located, in most cases, behind each wheel at the rear of the wheel arch.
The purpose of having these ride height sensors is to sense the level of the ground the car is traveling on to aid the automatically levelling of the car to provide superior ride quality.
Our specially designed adjustable lowering linkages replace the standard linkages, and by either lengthening or shortening the adjustable linkages you can alter the information that is being sent by the ride height sensor to the car's suspension computer. The altered information makes the computer think the car is sitting higher than it is and as a result the suspension computer lowers the car.
This method of lowering cars is a tried and tested method and has been fitted to 1000's of cars worldwide.
The kits that we supply are simple to fit and require no special tools or mechanical experience as we supply comprehensive fitting instructions.
As the lowering kits are fully adjustable it allows you to lower your car to exactly the height you want.
BILLET ALUMINIUM ADJUSTERS
We have created special adjusters that have been machined to accept specifically designed ball joints that have left hand and right-hand threads, which conveniently allows the length of the lowering linkage to be adjusted by simply turning it whilst fitted to the car, allowing the suspension height to be set to your exact preference.
Turning the adjuster by a 1/8th of a turn will lower the car by 2mm, by turning the adjuster through 4 full turns the car will lower by as much as 70mm!!
These very clever adjusters are precisely CNC machined from billet aluminium and include anti-slip knurling to allow better grip if your hands are wet or greasy, left hand thread indicator, 9mm spanner flats and are anodized red.
So this morning my Mercedes mechanic and I went to Caffine and Octane - the largest monthly car show in the US I'm told.
I told him what I bought and he said "those are perfect" and when I said better than port options he said yes, and i asked about STAR and he said "I've got it at the shop...do the links and we'll fine tune it with STAR" and on top of that he told me about the tuner here in Atlanta and said "bring it to Tony and he'll make nice power by mapping your ECU" so I guess my new ride is gonna get links and STAR, and a custom map by a guy who is all over youtube doing mercedes tunes. Look up Buckhead Imports and there are quite a few videos on his work.
I'll keep you posted.....I hope I helped a few folks.
So in the hopes of giving back to others:
1. Don't try this on jacks or ramps like I did.
2. The air-ride is self leveling, so it's imperative you make sure the links are the same length, exactly the same length
3. the adjustable type are not really realistic to adjust while connected - they need to be removed and adjusted and re-installed
4. The ratio is for every 5mm you shorten the link, the suspension lowers by 28mm, so measure the stock length rods, determine how much you want to lower it, and divide by 5.6 (28mm/5mm = 5.6). I don't remember all the numbers, but after converting I shot for 1.5" lower in the front, and hit 1.4" using a set of calipers.
7. Many of the parts are high quality polycarbonate/abs/plastic and you need to be a bit careful, but it's manageable
8. Do this on level ground, and realize that there is load leveling, so it's not a static measurement because the leveling is dynamic so you can't measure once and be convinced it's right or wrong
My car is not perfect. I need about 1/2" higher in the rear, and 1/2" lower in front, but honestly, I'll do it with the Star system, or up on a rack...doing the rear on ramps is almost impossible to do within reason (and I'm a pretty good mechanic).
03-27-2017, 09:01 AM
