Hard track use upgrades
#53
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2021 AMG GLE 63s Coupe AMG GLC 63s Coupe
#58
I've seen that information before. Accepted optimal pressures for GT3 fall outside of that range ie 30-33psi.
I've been messing about with pressures around 33psi for the Cup2s purely on the basis that the heavier GTR will need a little bit more pressure than the GT3. Car seems to handle very well but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's done something more scientific ie a pyrometer.
I've been messing about with pressures around 33psi for the Cup2s purely on the basis that the heavier GTR will need a little bit more pressure than the GT3. Car seems to handle very well but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's done something more scientific ie a pyrometer.
#59
If the pro-driver wasn't making any steering corrections while on track then he wasn't trying!
#60
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‘24 BMW iX M60
I've seen that information before. Accepted optimal pressures for GT3 fall outside of that range ie 30-33psi.
I've been messing about with pressures around 33psi for the Cup2s purely on the basis that the heavier GTR will need a little bit more pressure than the GT3. Car seems to handle very well but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's done something more scientific ie a pyrometer.
I've been messing about with pressures around 33psi for the Cup2s purely on the basis that the heavier GTR will need a little bit more pressure than the GT3. Car seems to handle very well but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's done something more scientific ie a pyrometer.
Just FYI.
Bish
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California John (04-13-2018)
#61
I’m not sure whether you have the normal SC2s on your car or the ZPs, but at the track I’ll be starting with 26 psi on the left and 25 psi on the right side; (my local track is counter-clockwise with predominantly left turns). This should get my SC2s to around 32/33 hot, which is where the ZPs ended up on my ‘15 Z06/7.
Just FYI.
Bish
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California John (04-13-2018)
#63
Super Member
Steel rotor guys need 2-piece rotor upgrade from racing brake as well as SS brake line upgrade with Castrol SRF and a more aggressive pad compound. You actually cha make steels brake harder than CCBs if you know what to do exactly, most race teams run steels and they will make your eyeballs pop out so its more an issues of components than actual brake rotor material
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Pete De La Mare (05-26-2019)
#64
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Steel rotor guys need 2-piece rotor upgrade from racing brake as well as SS brake line upgrade with Castrol SRF and a more aggressive pad compound. You actually cha make steels brake harder than CCBs if you know what to do exactly, most race teams run steels and they will make your eyeballs pop out so its more an issues of components than actual brake rotor material
Bish
#65
Super Member
No, it's also because they are cheaper to race and last longer. They also can outperform any CCB. You have never actually been in a real race car at speed with a professional race car driver if you think otherwise.
From the factory the GTS comes with soft components meant for a luxury car. A serious brake pad with stainless steel lines and Castro SRF will eliminate 80-90% of fade (if not all of it) on a steel rotor. The 2-piece rotors are more about reducing unsprung rotational inertia making it much easier for the brakes to do their job because inertia dictates the maximum rate of accel / decal of any rotor.
From the factory the GTS comes with soft components meant for a luxury car. A serious brake pad with stainless steel lines and Castro SRF will eliminate 80-90% of fade (if not all of it) on a steel rotor. The 2-piece rotors are more about reducing unsprung rotational inertia making it much easier for the brakes to do their job because inertia dictates the maximum rate of accel / decal of any rotor.
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Pete De La Mare (05-26-2019)
#66
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1: again they aren’t “steel”, non CCM rotors are made of cast iron. If you’re going to try and educate forum members about their brakes FFS at least get the material correct;
2: 2-piece, or ‘floating’ rotors are lighter than a one piece rotor that is cast with the hat. This lighter weight actually helps handling as it reduces unsprung weight. The lighter weight per se doesn’t enhance brake performance but there are multiple other benefits to a 2-piece rotor design such as keeping heat away from the hat/hub area; allowing uniform expansion of the rotor without trying to cause distortion of the hat area; potential cost savings since you can just replace the rotor ‘ring’ when worn and re-use the hat, and so on. Negatives are initial cost and potential for increased noise for example.
Lastly: no-one here is using their GT/GTS/GTC/GTR for racing, so I can categorically tell you that the CCMs are the best type of brakes to be used on a road course with the obvious negative of increased replacement costs of the consumables. Now if AP Racing brings out one of their endurance kits for the cars like they have for the C7 Corvettes, etc. then anyone using the car a great deal would be wise to invest in them.
Bish
2: 2-piece, or ‘floating’ rotors are lighter than a one piece rotor that is cast with the hat. This lighter weight actually helps handling as it reduces unsprung weight. The lighter weight per se doesn’t enhance brake performance but there are multiple other benefits to a 2-piece rotor design such as keeping heat away from the hat/hub area; allowing uniform expansion of the rotor without trying to cause distortion of the hat area; potential cost savings since you can just replace the rotor ‘ring’ when worn and re-use the hat, and so on. Negatives are initial cost and potential for increased noise for example.
Lastly: no-one here is using their GT/GTS/GTC/GTR for racing, so I can categorically tell you that the CCMs are the best type of brakes to be used on a road course with the obvious negative of increased replacement costs of the consumables. Now if AP Racing brings out one of their endurance kits for the cars like they have for the C7 Corvettes, etc. then anyone using the car a great deal would be wise to invest in them.
Bish
#68
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Replacing brake lines can introduce all sorts of new problems/issues. Rennlist had a thread where cars with high end stainless lines were spitting fittings and fluids. I believe you start with fluid and pads and go from there.
#69
Super Member
I tracked my GTS last year
While I am a seasoned Track Day driver I am by no means an expert. I did change out the brake fluid immediately and added a set of Titanium backing plates. I left everything else stock. What I did notice was that while my pedal did eventually exhibit fade after hard use it came back quickly after cooling down. I’ve replaced lines before and it’s never ended well for me and because of that I can’t trust them anymore. I would change out pads to something harder but then I’d have to change my rotors as well. I find the stock pads worked well with the stock rotors. Only if you change everything over do you get better results. For what it’s worth most veteran track day drivers also dont use SRF either as it makes for soft pedal feel and isn’t universally compatible with a lot of newer systems. Make your brakes as heat resistant and tolerant as possible, add cooling if possible and get great rubber. Then drive it like you stole it lol
#70
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Now if you’re actually racing, in a dedicated track only car then by all means use every professional piece of equipment necessary.
#71
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While I am a seasoned Track Day driver I am by no means an expert. I did change out the brake fluid immediately and added a set of Titanium backing plates. I left everything else stock. What I did notice was that while my pedal did eventually exhibit fade after hard use it came back quickly after cooling down. I’ve replaced lines before and it’s never ended well for me and because of that I can’t trust them anymore. I would change out pads to something harder but then I’d have to change my rotors as well. I find the stock pads worked well with the stock rotors. Only if you change everything over do you get better results. For what it’s worth most veteran track day drivers also dont use SRF either as it makes for soft pedal feel and isn’t universally compatible with a lot of newer systems. Make your brakes as heat resistant and tolerant as possible, add cooling if possible and get great rubber. Then drive it like you stole it lol
Fluid typeDry/Wet Boiling
Brembo LCF600Dry: 316°C (601°F) Wet: 204°C (399°F)
CASTROL SRFDry: 310°C (590°F) Wet: 270°C (518°F)
MOTUL RBF600Dry: 312°C (594°F) Wet: 216°C (421°F)
Last edited by ronin amg; 04-15-2018 at 10:58 AM.
#72
Super Member
I apologize
"Most track day drivers don't use SRF" brake fluid you say ? Sorry dude but you should pass that joint...
Fluid typeDry/Wet Boiling
Brembo LCF600Dry: 316°C (601°F) Wet: 204°C (399°F)
CASTROL SRFDry: 310°C (590°F) Wet: 270°C (518°F)
MOTUL RBF600Dry: 312°C (594°F) Wet: 216°C (421°F)
Fluid typeDry/Wet Boiling
Brembo LCF600Dry: 316°C (601°F) Wet: 204°C (399°F)
CASTROL SRFDry: 310°C (590°F) Wet: 270°C (518°F)
MOTUL RBF600Dry: 312°C (594°F) Wet: 216°C (421°F)
#74
Super Member
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#75
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Front Iron Rotor Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piec...ONT-p/2237.htm
Rear Iron Rotor Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/Mercedes...tor-p/2357.htm
Front & Rear Bundle Iron Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-Iron-.../mb-irk-12.htm
Carbon Ceramic Rotor Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-CCM-P.../mb-crk-07.htm
All rotor kits are designed and made for a 100% bolt on installation under OE front 6 pot red caliper (not Gold CCM calipers), and rear floating single piston calipers.
All kits are in stock except front CCM rotors with 2-4 wks leadtime.
The first brake company offers a complete brake upgrade option for GT S
https://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piec...ONT-p/2237.htm
Rear Iron Rotor Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/Mercedes...tor-p/2357.htm
Front & Rear Bundle Iron Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-Iron-.../mb-irk-12.htm
Carbon Ceramic Rotor Kit:
https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-CCM-P.../mb-crk-07.htm
All rotor kits are designed and made for a 100% bolt on installation under OE front 6 pot red caliper (not Gold CCM calipers), and rear floating single piston calipers.
All kits are in stock except front CCM rotors with 2-4 wks leadtime.
The first brake company offers a complete brake upgrade option for GT S
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Ago54 (01-09-2024)