Had a great day at the track and was able to feel out the cars capabilities more this time due to no rain and less traffic. Was able to match my PB at my home track on a warm day . Will be interesting to see the difference in grip with the Z06 tires next time . I went two clicks stiffer everywhere from stock on rebound and both compressions .
G
Had a great day at the track and was able to feel out the cars capabilities more this time due to no rain and less traffic. Was able to match my PB at my home track on a warm day . Will be interesting to see the difference in grip with the Z06 tires next time . I went two clicks stiffer everywhere from stock on rebound and both compressions .
G https://youtu.be/uClax6VUNnQ
Interesting. My rebound (front and back) came 100% stiff from factory. I've had to dial back 1 full rotation on both sides.
When you say '2 clicks' what do you mean? 2 full 360 degree rotations?
Interesting. My rebound (front and back) came 100% stiff from factory. I've had to dial back 1 full rotation on both sides.
When you say '2 clicks' what do you mean? 2 full 360 degree rotations?
Mine had obviously been messed with by the dealer, as both sides front and rear rebound were completely different by a large margin . Fortunately they did not mess with compression as the stock settings sticker which you have to break to change was still in place . Full stiff would not be optimal on almost any track . I did 2 clicks from recommended base settings In the Pro manual translated from French 😂 . Base settings backing off from full clockwise I.e full stiff rebound are 6 clicks Front and rear . The high and low speed compression knobs have distinct clicks the rebound is very subtle but can feel resistance changes . Two full 360 turns would be 8 clicks on these . It’s a bit of a pain getting your hand in there to adjust !
Mine had obviously been messed with by the dealer, as both sides front and rear rebound were completely different by a large margin . Fortunately they did not mess with compression as the stock settings sticker which you have to break to change was still in place . Full stiff would not be optimal on almost any track . I did 2 clicks from recommended base settings In the Pro manual translated from French 😂 . Base settings backing off from full clockwise I.e full stiff rebound are 6 clicks Front and rear . The high and low speed compression knobs have distinct clicks the rebound is very subtle but can feel resistance changes . Two full 360 turns would be 8 clicks on these . It’s a bit of a pain getting your hand in there to adjust !
Interesting. Thank you for that info. I lost my 'French' manual...wish I didn't.
Interesting. Thank you for that info. I lost my 'French' manual...wish I didn't.
Where did you find the compression knobs?
We need a digital copy of the 'Pro' manual.
The compression knobs are on the bottom inside of the shocks so you will need to be under the car to adjust , on jack stands or up on a lift . View from inside looking past front suspension and around the brake duct . G
Beautiful run, great vid...How often was the rear getting squirrly out of the apex? Looks like the car is pretty well planted...
It is front and rear grip, on high speed And lower speed corners is very even , temps on the left rear were slightly higher than left front as well indicating the cars excellent balance . Once you overheat the cup 2’s the car loses grip on both axles and you have to be judicious on power application as well as corner entry speeds . The car is very stable and forgiving however and an experienced driver would have to be doing something pretty aggressive to spin it in my opinion even in the Esc off mode . These shocks are excellent and the downforce is extremely noticeable especially braking into turn 1 from 159 GPS and turn 9 where min apex speed is 95 .
G
The compression knobs are on the bottom inside of the shocks so you will need to be under the car to adjust , on jack stands or up on a lift . View from inside looking past front suspension and around the brake duct . G
thanks. I’ll get mine up on jacks early next week and take a peek. See where I’m at.
Nice laps, how many track days? Everything working OK and not over heating? What pads do you run?
Waiting to see if they bring back the PRO for 2021 Euro Delivery.
It’s just my second day in the Pro so still feeling it out but it’s a really well sorted chassis . Stock tires , alignment , settings it has a bit more understeer in it than I like at the limit especially once the tires are overheated but should be able to sort that out. The pads are more track oriented on the pro and all indications are that’s true , I pulled 1.5 G braking from 160 mph going into turn 1 and never experienced fade on a 85 degree hot day even after 20 plus minutes at that pace and the wear is reasonable . The peak brake rotor temp at the end of a 25 min session ( I hot pitted no cool down to test ) were hot though 498 C front rotors but given the track surface temp well over a 120 that’s expected given that ceramics hold more heat . The brake ducting is obviously doing its job and the rears were 250 C peak . Engine and trans cooling is excellent with peak oil temps in the 230’s and trans temps in the 210’s . I wish we were able to view coolant temps but given the lowish oil temps that should be squared away as well . Pretty Pleased just want more front tire width and camber and should be good to go !
G
It’s just my second day in the Pro so still feeling it out but it’s a really well sorted chassis . Stock tires , alignment , settings it has a bit more understeer in it than I like at the limit especially once the tires are overheated but should be able to sort that out. The pads are more track oriented on the pro and all indications are that’s true , I pulled 1.5 G braking from 160 mph going into turn 1 and never experienced fade on a 85 degree hot day even after 20 plus minutes at that pace and the wear is reasonable . The peak brake rotor temp at the end of a 25 min session ( I hot pitted no cool down to test ) were hot though 498 C front rotors but given the track surface temp well over a 120 that’s expected given that ceramics hold more heat . The brake ducting is obviously doing its job and the rears were 250 C peak . Engine and trans cooling is excellent with peak oil temps in the 230’s and trans temps in the 210’s . I wish we were able to view coolant temps but given the lowish oil temps that should be squared away as well . Pretty Pleased just want more front tire width and camber and should be good to go !
G
Cure for the understeer is as you say: increased camber and more rubber, which is the MPSC2 ZP ROW option tyres if you still want to be able to drive to/from the track. Aim for 32 psi ‘hot’.
Cure for the understeer is as you say: increased camber and more rubber, which is the MPSC2 ZP ROW option tyres if you still want to be able to drive to/from the track. Aim for 32 psi ‘hot’.
Bish what alignment settings did you end up liking on your GTR ? What time delta same track similar conditions did you see switching to the Cup 2 Zp’s ? Thanks !
GJ
Bish what alignment settings did you end up liking on your GTR ? What time delta same track similar conditions did you see switching to the Cup 2 Zp’s ? Thanks !
GJ
I ended up with -2.5 camber at all 4 corners. Took two boxes of OEM shims to get to that. Kept caster and toe at OEM settings as I didn’t wanted too ‘nervous’ a ride on the street. Tyre wear was excellent and handling was great at my local track.
The ZPs are easily 2-3 seconds if not more quicker around most tracks, and it’s a combination of increased amounts of rubber along with a stickier tyre. Ride on the street is less compliant since the ZPs are RFTs, but tolerable to get you to/from the track. They are crap in wet weather conditions; not impossible to drive with but you really have to slow down and pay very close attention to standing water. I would not drive on track with them in the rain. They do need to be cared for, either by a good heat cycle prior to using them if you can, plus allow them to warm up for a lap or two before going 10/10ths. They generally have about 5 really fast laps in them until they start to feel a little ‘greasy’ but still remain faster than the OEM Cup 2’s. I never had any issues with them, but then again I was used to them from my ‘15 C7 Z07 days.
If you have no way to get to the track with Hoosiers, etc. the ZPs are a decent option and definitely faster than the Cup 2.
I ended up with -2.5 camber at all 4 corners. Took two boxes of OEM shims to get to that. Kept caster and toe at OEM settings as I didn’t wanted too ‘nervous’ a ride on the street. Tyre wear was excellent and handling was great at my local track.
The ZPs are easily 2-3 seconds if not more quicker around most tracks, and it’s a combination of increased amounts of rubber along with a stickier tyre. Ride on the street is less compliant since the ZPs are RFTs, but tolerable to get you to/from the track. They are crap in wet weather conditions; not impossible to drive with but you really have to slow down and pay very close attention to standing water. I would not drive on track with them in the rain. They do need to be cared for, either by a good heat cycle prior to using them if you can, plus allow them to warm up for a lap or two before going 10/10ths. They generally have about 5 really fast laps in them until they start to feel a little ‘greasy’ but still remain faster than the OEM Cup 2’s. I never had any issues with them, but then again I was used to them from my ‘15 C7 Z07 days.
If you have no way to get to the track with Hoosiers, etc. the ZPs are a decent option and definitely faster than the Cup 2.
Bish
Bish, I wonder if you ever tried Toyo R888R? They seems to be available in the stock MPSC2 size (275/325). After running through two sets of ZP, the problem I faced is they are on a back order until Spring of next year.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Anyone running Dunlops Sport Maxx2?
I don't think they make a size for the GTR... would love to try it if there are applicable sizes as well, the GT3RS guys love them.
Bish, I wonder if you ever tried Toyo R888R? They seems to be available in the stock MPSC2 size (275/325). After running through two sets of ZP, the problem I faced is they are on a back order until Spring of next year.
I don't think they make a size for the GTR... would love to try it if there are applicable sizes as well, the GT3RS guys love them.
I did not try the R888Rs as I was always able to find take off ZPs from owners on corvetteforum.com. That being said I know that some like the R888R for the track. I did have experience with the much older R888 when I owned my ‘09 Nissan GTR and those tyres were awful in many ways, but the R888R is supposedly much improved.
I did not try the R888Rs as I was always able to find take off ZPs from owners on corvetteforum.com. That being said I know that some like the R888R for the track. I did have experience with the much older R888 when I owned my ‘09 Nissan GTR and those tyres were awful in many ways, but the R888R is supposedly much improved.
Bish
I used the R888R on my Z4M track car and hated them lol . Always sloppy with a lot of slip angle in the tire and heat cycled out with tons of tread left. On that car was significantly slower than a sport cup 2 fresh and dropped off more with with heat cycles. It was slower and sloppy at its optimal temp but tolerated tread temps over 200 better than the Cup2 on hot days wear wise . But to each there own ...
G
I used the R888R on my Z4M track car and hated them lol . Always sloppy with a lot of slip angle in the tire and heat cycled out with tons of tread left. On that car was significantly slower than a sport cup 2 fresh and dropped off more with with heat cycles. It was slower and sloppy at its optimal temp but tolerated tread temps over 200 better than the Cup2 on hot days wear wise . But to each there own ...
G
These were my experiences with the R888 on my ‘09 GTR, so maybe the R888R is not much better! lol
Also, if you drive them on the street the R888 at least was very noisy, and crap in the rain.
Question for OP - How was the GTR Pro improved brake cooling work for you on track?
For regular GTR, it is impossible to track without a set of brake ducts, wondering if the Pro has improved that. (recently looking at a pro and thinking of a possible upgrade...)
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