Last year I had my windshield replaced (to same original OEM) due to a large crack caused by a rock. Now, about a year later, thousands of small dots appear on this newer windshield. It could have been caused by gravel hitting the windshield, but my insurance assessor claims that it is most likely caused from an improper installation of the vibration dumping pads (??) coupled with the car's hard suspensions and northeast cold temperature winter driving. He is basing this on the similar dots (although in lesser quantity) seen on the inside part of the windshield. Although the insurance company agreed to pay due to glare issue in night driving caused by these thousands of dots, it ended up with a lower insurance reimbursement pay and the task to negotiate a cost reduction with the dealer.

Did anyone have a similar experience and can shed some light on the accuracy of the insurance position? To me, it looks like gravel damage.

 

Mine looks the same if not worse. Mine came from being sandblasted on a trip. I was following an R8 and 720s for a few days and they are like a vacuum cleaner. They sucked up everything off the road and threw it all out the backside.

 

You guys should consider installing a windshield protector when you install your next new windshield.

Based on similiar past ecperience, I won’t move a new car until the windshield and at least the front end is protected.

XPEL and Dynoshield make very good products for this application.

 

Agreed. I get Exoshield installed on every one of my vehicles, and it holds up to some hard abuse.

 

Sage advice from Jerry.

Especially on these expensive windshields - $2500.

My Bentley Continental GT - $6000 (BEFORE inflation), prob $7000 now.

 

OP: have you tracked the car? It’s one of the easiest ways to cause damage to the windshield, especially when you’re following a car spitting out a ton of unburnt hydrocarbons; (think race car or something tuned without catalytic converter, etc). That plus the debris kicked up by race tyres can ruin a pristine windshield in a weekend easily.

I for years have used Clearplex, or more recently Exoshield to protect the windshield from road course and street damage. The ‘trick’ is to find a really good installer who’s been installing windshield film for a while as it’s far more difficult to install than regular PPF. You might only get a year out of the film before it needs to be replaced based on how many track days you do annually, but I still believe its worth every penny.

BTW: I don’t think there’s any way that a bad installation can cause that amount of ‘pitting’. It has to be from road/track ‘debris’.

 

Thank you all for the good advice. It confirms that the issue is coming from gravel and debris and not windshield installation issue.
I do track the car several time a year and I do recall that few weeks ago, like mathechr, I was tightly tailing a 720S and the windshield got worse after the track day. I guess you don't always see or hear the debris, but they are there.
I ordered C-BOND nanoshield coating and planned to install it right at the service location, but I will also take your advice to add Exoshield on top.
Again, thank you all for the useful advice.

 

If you are going to continue tracking your car why not use the existing windshield until it is “worn out” in your assessment. Then install the new windshield and protection.

 

Its already in a bad condition. While driving at night the oncoming traffic headlights cause kind of whiteout. It's a safety issue, and this is why the insurance company agreed to pay (partially)

 

I am sure you know not to tell them you are tracking the car or they won’t pay for any damage including the windshield.

BE SAFE!!

 

Of course, and potentially cancel my policy

 

I would Exoshield, then Ceramic btw. In fact in order to enable excellent adherence the installer would probably ‘strip’ the Ceramic coating completely off.

 

You are right. I spoke with Exoshield installer today and he advised the same. Do the ceramic on top of the film, otherwise it will not properly adhere to the glass.

 

Be careful cleaning the windshield when the Exoshield is installed. Whilst it has better optical clarity versus Clearplex, it seems to be ‘softer’ and more easily damaged. The Ceramic should provide more resistance to damage, but be careful using anything with a somewhat stiff edge such as when cleaning snow, etc. Normal window cleaners and using microfibre cloths will not be an issue, and automated car washing on my etron never caused any issues either.

 

Fifteen years ago while driving on I-5 near Bakersfield I ran into a dust storm that pitted the windshield in my CL55 AMG. For some strange reason, maybe aerodynamics, the storm left the paint job alone. But I needed a new windshield.

 

Goos advise. Thank you.

 

I agree that, if I knew I was going to apply the shield, I'd not ceramic-coat the windshield. I don't know what type of adhesive the windshield coatings use, but I'm assuming it's about the same as PPF so ...

FWIW, I was told by a reputable PPF installer that they'd strip the ceramic coating before installing PPF because they couldn't warranty that it'd stick. I apply 2 coats of ceramic coating (DIY) to all our cars and I wasn't having anyone take a buffer to mine so decided to learn how to do PPF, myself. After a lengthy learning process applying 3M ScotchGard Pro I learned:

- the PPF actually sticks _better_ to the ceramic-coated surface ... this makes sense since the surface is much smoother after ceramic coating because the "glass rust" fills the "micro-pores" of the paint surface

- applying PPF over a ceramic-coated surface is more difficult ... the reason being that, when you apply the slip solution, it tends to "sheet off" the ceramic-coated surface which causes the PPF to stick "early and hard" instead of nicely sliding around for positioning (the larger the piece, the longer you take to place and squeegee, the more this is problematic)

I was doing all "bulk installs" (no pre-cut patterns/pieces) and, with larger horizontal sections (e.g., hood), found the most challenging aspect was the slip-repellent nature of the ceramic coating. It was extremely difficult not to end up with "lift lines" in the PPF.

After almost a year, I can attest to the fact that there's no lifting with the PPF installed over a ceramic-coated surface (I've done 3 vehicles).

 

Thanks for your post, and your experience.

Unless things have changed recently, PPF installers would literally strip any protective coating such as wax with an alcohol(?) agent from all painted surfaces since the films needed to bond to the paint/clear coat. Perhaps that has changed now that ceramic coating has become so popular.

 

Not meaning to hijack the thread but, yes, that's still the case except that the only way of removing ceramic coating (other than degradation over years) is to use a buffer with at least a mild cutting compound.

On my first test area I let it dry too much before wiping off the excess and had "white cloudy bubbles" remaining. Removing that approximately 1 sq ft area took me almost an hour with careful use of a buffer and mild cutting compound (Meguiar's 105 & 205). Ceramic coating is serious stuff. As I indicated, I didn't want someone else taking a buffer and cutting compound to my paint ... too easy to end up cutting the clear-coat down too much (or worse). Anyway, learning how to do PPF was sort of fun ... though it is a tough learning curve (and _really_ hard on arthritic fingers!).