When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have had an error message similar to yours once about the splitter/undertray. After the car was turned off and sat for a while, and canned down it worked fine. Please note that on the left side of the steering wheel one of the knobs can control the front air dam/splitter/undertray, moving it up and down but only when the car is stopped. Then you can manually lower it, theoretically to clean it. It is easier to clean in the down position. But then once you start the car and want to go, it will automatically retract into the up position so that you aren’t banging on approaches and entry angles.
*** Sorry about my above posting. This was for a 2022 AMG SL63…not what the OP was talking about.
Last edited by California John; May 6, 2023 at 04:13 PM.
So I drove the car to my local MB dealer on Tuesday morning; they got to it immediately and discovered a recall (see the picture attached) regarding the front spoiler. They overnighted a new assembly from California and had everything done by the next afternoon (I am highly pleased with the turnaround time).
I had a chance to take a picture of the previous spoiler vs. the new spoiler. MB has done a mild redesign of the front spoiler; no more air channel guides and fewer screws on both sides.
Dealer service writeup
Original front spoiler
New front spoiler
No more lights on the dash under any circumstances, and the new front spoiler slides in and out much smoother than before. I am very pleased with the service.
To update on the VIR event. The car was terrific and held up very well to all the abuses. Tho I did blow the AC compressor...
The car is showroom stock except for pads (PAGID RSC1) and fluids (Castrol SRF) including alignment.
I was able to lap the VIR Full Course in 1:55.38 on a set of new CUP2R's, but there's still a second or two on the table with a faster driver behind the wheel.
Here is the link to a video of the fastest session from the event.
I tried both variant of MO1 (soft) and MO2 (hard)
unfortunately it did not change much regarding to wear.
It's probably linked to my agressive driving style. I'm a relatively fast driver, but I know that i need to ease up and work on tire wear.
You should give a shot to standard brake pads. I went through 4 sets of tires so far and pads are not even at half wear. Actually i am still on original brake fluids, which surprisingly did not overheat so far...
i drove on a short track south of france (Ledenon) under 29deg C and at Spa-Francorchamps in april and kept an eye on oil and trans temps... everything always stayed at standard temps (105deg max for oil...)
stock camber on rear worked well for me.
For front, i'm trying now the 3rd most agressive set of camber plates.
i did not try playing with toe so far. I'd be interested to know your feedback once you start tuning it.
I just found your post as I've finally got around to putting MO2 onto my car. Dissapointed to read they don't last very long! I have 2 days at ZV next week, I was hoping the set would last both days.
I'm on my second set of pads and have cooked my brake fluid once at this point. The brakes on the BS are excellent stock IMO but I did upgrade the pads and fluid anyway when I replaced.
I don't understand your comments about the camberplates though, changing the camber also changes the toe on this car (not as "racecar" as some would like to beleive) you cannot just change the camberplates and not change the toe.
Last edited by WhiteBlack; May 17, 2023 at 05:42 AM.
Getting alignment (camber) took some time. Using max camber ended having the inside part of the tire roasted, so it was too much.[/b]
Yes, the GTBS has a fixed type, both front and rear double wishbone design... true motorsport parts, amazing for the track, but tons of work when doing alignment... I am thinking fo running 3 in the front and 2.5 in the rear.
Are you just guessing at camber? If you don't understand what it does I would not change it.
We did a full setup day on the car at my local circuit with the race team to adjust camber and toe on the car for me. I cannot remember the settings as we did this over a year ago now and havent needed to change since. The optimal setup for me was nowhere near as agressive as I thought it would be.
Are you just guessing at camber? If you don't understand what it does I would not change it.
We did a full setup day on the car at my local circuit with the race team to adjust camber and toe on the car for me. I cannot remember the settings as we did this over a year ago now and havent needed to change since. The optimal setup for me was nowhere near as agressive as I thought it would be.
We did not wild guess the camber. We mounted the camber plates and ended with around -3deg of camber. Interestingly enough, toe did not change much.
As you, camber had to be less agressive than what i though. The indoor part of the tire was cooked to hell while outdoor part was nearly untouched.
I honestly barely saw any difference between MO1 and MO2 when it came to longevity.
We did not wild guess the camber. We mounted the camber plates and ended with around -3deg of camber. Interestingly enough, toe did not change much.
As you, camber had to be less agressive than what i though. The indoor part of the tire was cooked to hell while outdoor part was nearly untouched.
I honestly barely saw any difference between MO1 and MO2 when it came to longevity.
Sorry for the confusion, my second post was in response to the OP who seemed to be guessing at camber not you.
I think you would definitely see improved tyre wear if you worked with both camber and toe. We ended up with a really even heat spread across all 4 tyres after setup. I’m getting 4 days on track and still road legal out of a set of normal cup2.
Disappointing about M02. I guess this will be my only set before returning to the regular tyres.
ZV looks like rain on Monday so maybe I will get those 2 days after all!
Are you just guessing at camber? If you don't understand what it does I would not change it.
We did a full setup day on the car at my local circuit with the race team to adjust camber and toe on the car for me. I cannot remember the settings as we did this over a year ago now and havent needed to change since. The optimal setup for me was nowhere near as agressive as I thought it would be.
Hey, thanks for your input.
I am well aware of what camber is and what it does to the car. However, I did not guess the camber nor did I play around with the camber/or any alignment specs. The car runs well the way it is now, and the tire wear is very consistent across the board. I'd love to hear how your car feels after setting it up with the race team. Any sort of advice would be very much appreciated.
Sorry for the confusion, my second post was in response to the OP who seemed to be guessing at camber not you.
I think you would definitely see improved tyre wear if you worked with both camber and toe. We ended up with a really even heat spread across all 4 tyres after setup. I’m getting 4 days on track and still road legal out of a set of normal cup2.
Disappointing about M02. I guess this will be my only set before returning to the regular tyres.
ZV looks like rain on Monday so maybe I will get those 2 days after all!
I will have to check with the team when I next see them.
I run 2 days at ZV in sunny conditions, MO2 survived and was still street legal at the end although all performance from the tyre was gone. I was +2sec faster with fresh Cup2 R MO2 vs Cup2 but this is a year apart since I ran at ZV. I wouldn't buy the tyres again but it was fun to try them out.
I am well aware of what camber is and what it does to the car. However, I did not guess the camber nor did I play around with the camber/or any alignment specs. The car runs well the way it is now, and the tire wear is very consistent across the board. I'd love to hear how your car feels after setting it up with the race team. Any sort of advice would be very much appreciated.
Sorry, I just found your earlier comments a bit odd. Lots of people seem to fiddle with geometry without understanding what they're doing.
Front end turn in since my car has been setup is so much better specifically on medium/low speed corners. It really defies the weight of the car. Tyre wear is also greatly improved.
The only thing I'm tempted to play with now is lowering the car (which I know they did the the ring lap record setup). I feel the turning vanes etc would be potentially be more effective if bought closer to the ground. Of course the issue I have then is ground clearance, the car is driven on the street (although not much these days).
I will have to check with the team when I next see them.
I run 2 days at ZV in sunny conditions, MO2 survived and was still street legal at the end although all performance from the tyre was gone. I was +2sec faster with fresh Cup2 R MO2 vs Cup2 but this is a year apart since I ran at ZV. I wouldn't buy the tyres again but it was fun to try them out.
What tyres will you use? There is not a lot of choices with our tyre sizes?
I looked at slicks at some stage, but nothing exists for 19"+ rims
I am on factory settings and the inside of both front tires seems to be wearing faster than any other part of the tire, and this is just driving on the street ... the car has no alignment or tracking issues!
BTW unless you like drone, don't get catless downpipes .....i just installed the Redstar ones and highway drone is awful .... i have now placed an order for the Renntech downpipes with cats.
... i did get the Renntech ECU flash and it really wakes up the car
I am on factory settings and the inside of both front tires seems to be wearing faster than any other part of the tire, and this is just driving on the street ... the car has no alignment or tracking issues!
BTW unless you like drone, don't get catless downpipes .....i just installed the Redstar ones and highway drone is awful .... i have now placed an order for the Renntech downpipes with cats.
... i did get the Renntech ECU flash and it really wakes up the car
If you are sure the rest of the alignment is set correctly I would double check the front toe, as that may well be causing excessive inner wear if incorrect.
[QUOTE=CXX;8760583]Bonjour les gars ; J'ai toujours été un gars de Porsche pour ma sélection de voitures de piste, et le monde AMG est complètement nouveau pour moi. J'ai possédé une 991.2 GT3, GT3RS et GT2RS et j'ai récemment acheté un GTBS. Le GTBS sera de 80 % pour la piste et de 20 % pour la route (environ 30 jours de piste par an), donc je cherche à voir si quelqu'un pourrait me conseiller sur l'entretien/la configuration et quelques choses que je devrais savoir avant de le sortir. .
Choses déjà prévues ---
1. Rinçage du liquide de frein - Castrol SRF
2. Remplacement des plaquettes de frein - Pagid RSC1
3. Alignement de la voie - Carrossage avant 3,5 pincement 0,08 - Carrossage arrière 2,7 pincement 0,08
Questions que j'ai pour le voiture ---
1. À quelle fréquence dois-je changer mes liquides ? (J'avais l'habitude de changer l'huile moteur sur la GT2RS tous les 4 jours de piste et deux fois par an pour le liquide de frein)
2. Existe-t-il des options d'amélioration des freins pour la voiture ? (Ne pas considérer Girodisc... peut-être Surface Transform ? AP ? PFC ?)
3. Dans quelle mesure le GTBS gère-t-il la chaleur ? Je suis dans le nord-est des États-Unis, donc je ne m'inquiète pas de la chaleur extrême, mais je veux quand même le savoir à l'avance.
4. La voiture est-elle prête/bénéficie-t-elle d’un carburant à indice d’octane plus élevé ? Peut-être 100 octanes ?
5. La configuration du moteur avant-central bénéficierait-elle d'un pincement moindre à l'arrière pour plus de stabilité ? (Je préfère avoir un pincement neutre sur les GTR à cause du RWS, mais comme le BS n'a pas de RWS, j'ai ensuite opté pour un peu de pincement à l'arrière)
6. Existe-t-il des options d’échappement sur le marché secondaire ? Je ne cherche pas à dévaler la rue avec un air de bourdonnement... mais quatre chats n'ont pas de sens pour moi, donc un tuyau de descente à haut débit est nécessaire pour ajouter des émotions sur la piste.
Merci à tous d'être intervenu sur ce sujet ! Dans l’attente des mois/années à venir avec la foule AMG.
[/CITATION
pourquoi vous ne voulez pas de friens girodisc en acier?
I am on factory settings and the inside of both front tires seems to be wearing faster than any other part of the tire, and this is just driving on the street ... the car has no alignment or tracking issues!
BTW unless you like drone, don't get catless downpipes .....i just installed the Redstar ones and highway drone is awful .... i have now placed an order for the Renntech downpipes with cats.
... i did get the Renntech ECU flash and it really wakes up the car
Would be interested to hear your impressions of the Renntech downpipes. I have their long tube headers and tune on my SLS BS and it totally transformed the car. Obviously, one cannot compare the sounds of the SLS and GT BS but I am impressed by their workmanship. The photos of the GT downpipes on their website looks very good.
Did you also order the air filter and blow off valves, or are those items only part of the upgraded turbo kit?
At 3.00 minutes into the video, the car is making a 'ringing' noise from the exhaust, i believe it is the 'actuator flapper valve' vibrating at high rpm, my BS does the same thing!
Hi! Do you still track the car? How are the Pagid Pads working with the stock discs? Do you have more wear on the discs due to the higher braking performance compared too stock? Why are Girodisc Steel Rotors with Endless Ma045B pads no option for you? I am thinking about giving them
a try. Replacing ccb rotors after a few trackdays is really painful 😵💫🤯
Thank you very much and best regards.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
