Here's my personal take, as someone who transitioned from a 2019 GTR to a 2020 GTC. When I had the GTR, I wasn’t very focused on track use and found it a bit rough for daily driving. Then, a new 2020 GTC became available, and I weighed the options; the GTC seemed to be a better fit for daily use with occasional track days. It shares the wide body and turbos of the GTR, but also includes additional interior finishes and a panoramic roof, adding a touch of luxury to its aggressive look. The ride is a bit smoother, and it has the essential front and rear cameras.
To enhance its look, I added color accents, carbon fiber front splitters, and an OEM GTR carbon fiber rear wing (see photos). However, if you’re looking at doing extensive body modifications, note that there are more aftermarket body parts available for the GT and GTS than for the GTC.
@G. P Great looking car! How would you compare the sounds of the 19" R vs. the 20" C? In specific, do you noticed the more pops and bags in the PFL vs. the FL car?
@G. P Great looking car! How would you compare the sounds of the 19" R vs. the 20" C? In specific, do you noticed the more pops and bags in the PFL vs. the FL car?
The 2019 GTR, with its titanium exhaust, naturally has a louder and higher-pitched sound. In contrast, the 2020 GTC delivers a more subdued tone, featuring a pleasant, lower-pitched rumble. However, by adding the Renntech EVM module to the GTC (as I did), you can control the muffler bypass and make the GTC extremely loud. With a minor tune added, the GTC can also achieve the same or even more horsepower and torque as the GTR, along with plenty of pops and bangs.(Pops and bangs can be added without change in HP as well - talk to your tuner).
On a personal note, I tend to keep the EVM off most of the time. While the loud exhaust is great for making an impression, it can get overwhelming after extended use. Even with the windows closed, the noise in the coupe can make it challenging to hold a normal conversation with your passenger. It's a huge advantage to be able to quiet down the sound.
Ultimately, with the EVM, it comes down to personal preference: the higher-pitched tone of the GTR versus the deeper rumble of the GTC, rather than volume. 😊
“For Street/NON-track tire pressures - OEM recommendation for "max speed psi" is on Driver's door frame: COLD: 38psi at Front, 39psi at Rear. (Additional OEM psi recommendations by Max Speed is inside Fuel Door) With above OEM psi recommendations, OEM Sport Cup 2s have lasted 15K Miles on the Street/Non-Track setup (although aggressive/high speed driving, this is without any burnouts, drifting, or launch control)”
Please check the tyre pressure section in the Owner’s manual. Those stickers inside the fuel flap or on the door jam generally refer to the psi needed for sustained high speed/high load driving. There should be a much lower recommendation for daily driving below a noted (very) high speed and low load situation.
One would think the Manual would state this clearly, right?
Pages 260 and 261 of US 2019 GT R Owner's Manual, however, state to refer to labels on Door Frame (Driver's B Pillar), and on inside Fuel Door:
"1) Recommended tire pressures
The Tire and Loading Information placard is on
the B-pillar on the driver's side.
The Tire and Loading Information placard contains the recommended tire pressures for cold tires.
The recommended tire pressures are valid for the maximum permissible load and up to the maximum permissible vehicle speed.
Tire pressure table:
The tire pressure table is on the inside of the fuel filler flap. It shows the tire pressure for all tires permitted at the factory for this vehicle; see illustration (example).
If a tire size precedes a tire pressure, the tire pressure information following is only valid for that tire size.
If the tire pressures have been set to the lower values for lighter loads and/or lower road speeds, the pressures should be reset to the higher values:
if you want to drive with an increased load
and/or
if you want to drive at higher road speeds
The tire pressures for increased loads and/or higher road speeds, shown in the tire pressure table, may have a negative effect on driving comfort.
If the tire pressure is not set correctly, this can lead to an excessive build-up of heat and a sudden loss of pressure.
For more information, contact a qualified specialist workshop."
Since OP is inquiring about predominantly a Daily Driver setup for a GT R consideration, I wanted to share pertinent information inclusive of "real life" Tire Wear, and since my Street setup is set for "max speed" at the higher 38F/39R PSI's, I did Not really notice any significant/deleterious drop in ride comfort (albeit personal tolerance for stiff chassis damping over uneven roads/bumps, etc is so very subjective)
But i did experience much greater Tread Life than colleagues whose Street set up were at lower PSI's of low/mid-30s - they were replacing Tires at ~5-6K miles.
The lower PSI recommendations you mention are on the Fuel Door as previously noted.
i decided on a GTR just coz of the more aggression compared to GTC and im all about the how mean does a car look and sound.
Initially thought id look at 2020 but literally only one for sale here in canada and cant justify paying 47k more for it when the only two things i like from 2020 would be headlight and front camera.
Looked at a 2018 and 2019 today. Leaning towards the 2018 since it only has 10k kms but lets see how things go.
is there anything i should be aware of looking at these 2018/2019 gtrs in terms of mechanical issues and such? Thanks again!
Have you looked on Carguru? There were several for sale.
yeah i did but only a handful of options. Also tried looking at 2020 GTCs but there are literally no coupes for sale. Ppl holding on to their GTs i guess
I figured the 2024 Gt63 wasnt that popular but wow my wife just told me one of the salesrep at this mercedes dealer she went to was willing to drop the price from 210k to 165k CAD.
i wish i was there coz there has to be a catch. Never heard of such a drastic price cut before for a sale. Would go and investigate but dont think id pick a 2024 GT over a GTR anyway
i decided on a GTR ...
Looked at a 2018 and 2019 today. Leaning towards the 2018 since it only has 10k kms but lets see how things go.
is there anything i should be aware of looking at these 2018/2019 gtrs in terms of mechanical issues and such?
Recommend 2019 >> 2018, but may depend on the Mileage delta
Mechanical Issues to look for - Recommend Pre-Purchase Inspection to fully evaluate below
Any CF Driveshaft Recall that was Not completed. Some 2018 GT Rs were affected, maybe even some 2019 MYs
Any leakage at the Trans, and/or Rear Main Seal
If Transaxle Service (Trans + Diff fluid changes - 2 different fluids) was not yet done (needs to be every 4 Years or 40K Miles, whichever is first), recommend they perform this Before you take ownership
Exhaust Flaps - no rattling/issues
Tightening of All Nuts/Bolts at all 4 Axles. Various Reports of loose connectors at Axles causing catastrophic failure, but this appears to be more frequent with higher mileage vehicles > 20K Miles. Still, get them to Re-torque All connectors at Axles x 4
Check Health of Li Battery
Recommend 2019 >> 2018, but may depend on the Mileage delta
Mechanical Issues to look for - Recommend Pre-Purchase Inspection to fully evaluate below
Any CF Driveshaft Recall that was Not completed. Some 2018 GT Rs were affected, maybe even some 2019 MYs
Any leakage at the Trans, and/or Rear Main Seal
If Transaxle Service (Trans + Diff fluid changes - 2 different fluids) was not yet done (needs to be every 4 Years or 40K Miles, whichever is first), recommend they perform this Before you take ownership
Exhaust Flaps - no rattling/issues
Tightening of All Nuts/Bolts at all 4 Axles. Various Reports of loose connectors at Axles causing catastrophic failure, but this appears to be more frequent with higher mileage vehicles > 20K Miles. Still, get them to Re-torque All connectors at Axles x 4
Check Health of Li Battery
great info, thanks.
saw a 2020 gtr and must admit it felt nice coz of the newer interior. Might just hold off on this 2018 and wait to get the 2020. Winter is starting here in canada so will recheck in summer and hopefully prices dip a little more by then. Fingers crossed
Recommend 2019 >> 2018, but may depend on the Mileage delta
Mechanical Issues to look for - Recommend Pre-Purchase Inspection to fully evaluate below
Any CF Driveshaft Recall that was Not completed. Some 2018 GT Rs were affected, maybe even some 2019 MYs
Any leakage at the Trans, and/or Rear Main Seal
If Transaxle Service (Trans + Diff fluid changes - 2 different fluids) was not yet done (needs to be every 4 Years or 40K Miles, whichever is first), recommend they perform this Before you take ownership
Exhaust Flaps - no rattling/issues
Tightening of All Nuts/Bolts at all 4 Axles. Various Reports of loose connectors at Axles causing catastrophic failure, but this appears to be more frequent with higher mileage vehicles > 20K Miles. Still, get them to Re-torque All connectors at Axles x 4
Check Health of Li Battery
came across a nicely optioned 2019 but it has carbon ceramic brakes which i dont have experience with but heard its $$$
Whats the rotor life like if the car doesnt see a track? Interchangeable with steel rotors/pads?
do the carbon brakes squeal a lot in city driving?
came across a nicely optioned 2019 but it has carbon ceramic brakes which i dont have experience with but heard its $$$
Whats the rotor life like if the car doesnt see a track? Interchangeable with steel rotors/pads?
do the carbon brakes squeal a lot in city driving?
thanks
I used to be scared to death of owning a car with ccb's. I've had 2 now and dread the thought of going back. For a street car, barring any accidents involving chipping a rotor when removing/installing a wheel, they should last the life of the car, or close to it. Stopping power is insane and one of the best parts...ZERO brake dust. Not to mention they just look better.
Yes you can swap for iron rotors if you want. There are also some companies who can recondition older CCB'S as well. Don't sweat it. 100% worth it in my opinion.
**forgot to mention something you asked about...sometimes they can squeal a bit, but mine are quiet most of the time. Heat 'em up every once in a while.
I used to be scared to death of owning a car with ccb's. I've had 2 now and dread the thought of going back. For a street car, barring any accidents involving chipping a rotor when removing/installing a wheel, they should last the life of the car, or close to it. Stopping power is insane and one of the best parts...ZERO brake dust. Not to mention they just look better.
Yes you can swap for iron rotors if you want. There are also some companies who can recondition older CCB'S as well. Don't sweat it. 100% worth it in my opinion.
**forgot to mention something you asked about...sometimes they can squeal a bit, but mine are quiet most of the time. Heat 'em up every once in a while.
how would you check the carbon ceramic rotor for wear and tear? Car only has 15000 kms but with ccbs and downpipes, im assuming prev owner tracked so just want to make sure they took necessary care and brakes arent excessively worn for this mileage. Thanks
how would you check the carbon ceramic rotor for wear and tear? Car only has 15000 kms but with ccbs and downpipes, im assuming prev owner tracked so just want to make sure they took necessary care and brakes arent excessively worn for this mileage. Thanks
If I remember correctly, beyond a visual inspection to look for chips, cracks and those wear dots, they need to be weighed.
But those wear dots are one quick way to see how much life is in them.
I don't know a ton about them. My car had 1700 miles on it when I bought it so I wasn't remotely concerned.
Do you know how much track time it's had?
If I remember correctly, beyond a visual inspection to look for chips, cracks and those wear dots, they need to be weighed.
But those wear dots are one quick way to see how much life is in them.
I don't know a ton about them. My car had 1700 miles on it when I bought it so I wasn't remotely concerned.
Do you know how much track time it's had?
The "wear dots" are essentially useless as a wear indicator. Even weighing the CCB rotors to check for wear is quite problematic due to the precision required, not to mention the labor. If you search you'll find a whitepaper I wrote on the topic of measuring CCB rotor wear. Conclusion: only the Carboteq tool is accurate. Here's a recent post that should give you some level of confidence about that car's rotors: https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...ml#post9083667
BTW, I wouldn't assume that downpipes and/or a tune indicate that a car was tracked. I suspect many people do such mods without ever taking their car to the track. If the car doesn't have new tires on it, a better indication would be to examine the tires, especially the fronts, to see whether they have any characteristic "scrubbing wear." While the absence of such wear may not eliminate tracking, the presence of such wear is informative.
The "wear dots" are essentially useless as a wear indicator. Even weighing the CCB rotors to check for wear is quite problematic due to the precision required, not to mention the labor. If you search you'll find a whitepaper I wrote on the topic of measuring CCB rotor wear. Conclusion: only the Carboteq tool is accurate. Here's a recent post that should give you some level of confidence about that car's rotors: https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...ml#post9083667
BTW, I wouldn't assume that downpipes and/or a tune indicate that a car was tracked. I suspect many people do such mods without ever taking their car to the track. If the car doesn't have new tires on it, a better indication would be to examine the tires, especially the fronts, to see whether they have any characteristic "scrubbing wear." While the absence of such wear may not eliminate tracking, the presence of such wear is informative.
The "wear dots" are essentially useless as a wear indicator. Even weighing the CCB rotors to check for wear is quite problematic due to the precision required, not to mention the labor. If you search you'll find a whitepaper I wrote on the topic of measuring CCB rotor wear. Conclusion: only the Carboteq tool is accurate. Here's a recent post that should give you some level of confidence about that car's rotors: https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...ml#post9083667
BTW, I wouldn't assume that downpipes and/or a tune indicate that a car was tracked. I suspect many people do such mods without ever taking their car to the track. If the car doesn't have new tires on it, a better indication would be to examine the tires, especially the fronts, to see whether they have any characteristic "scrubbing wear." While the absence of such wear may not eliminate tracking, the presence of such wear is informative.
great info, thanks. The gsm of the dealer later told me he knows the client who traded it in and assured me it wasnt tracked but will def ask for some close ups on the tires since the car is in a different province.
will put in an offer tmrw.15k kms, ppf wrapped full, renntech stage 1, zac air intake, catless downpipe and star warranty for 1 year. Wish it wasnt white colour though but fingers crossed
great info, thanks. The gsm of the dealer later told me he knows the client who traded it in and assured me it wasnt tracked but will def ask for some close ups on the tires since the car is in a different province.
will put in an offer tmrw.15k kms, ppf wrapped full, renntech stage 1, zac air intake, catless downpipe and star warranty for 1 year. Wish it wasnt white colour though but fingers crossed
Does your Province require annual ‘smog’ inspections? I ask because I would be a little concerned about passing an emissions check running catless DPs.
Does your Province require annual ‘smog’ inspections? I ask because I would be a little concerned about passing an emissions check running catless DPs.
fortunately no annual smog requirements but also asking the dealer to include the factory cats just so i can switch if i want as car seems quite loud from the video dealer sent me.
i would just need the primary/secondary cats to be able to switch in future or dealer needs to provide the original downpipe too? Thanks!
i noticed around the 16 second mark as he opens the hood and goes closer to the intakes, there is a contrast in the sounds between left and right with the left being a lot more ‘ringy’ so to say.
i noticed around the 16 second mark as he opens the hood and goes closer to the intakes, there is a contrast in the sounds between left and right with the left being a lot more ‘ringy’ so to say.
curious if you experience the same? Thanks!
Weird, there is a noticeable difference in the sound from right to left,
Don’t know where you are in Canada but it may be worth a plane ticket to go check it out in person.
That’s awesome, hope it all goes well.
Did you figure out what was that noise out of the left intake?
Regarding the noise they said it was normal due to cold start and they sent me another video after running the car a minute or two and the noise had gone.
i didnt dive deeper because my c63s does something similar in the cold but will still mention this to the ppi shop coz i asked them for a through and full check.
hey guys, so the car got back from PPI. the shop said car is in pretty much brand new shape but they did identify the following codes when they did a scan.
Anyone familiar with any of these?
Looking at the carfax, i do see some work done on the car in 2023. maybe it could be related to above codes?
Should I walk away from the car if dealer refuses to resolve these fault codes? Thanks!
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
