Engine Detailing
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'06 C55 AMG
Engine Detailing
Anyone have any ideas about cleaning the engine? Should I even bother or should I just leave it to the pro's?
Any advice would be great!
Any advice would be great!
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S500/W220/2000
Originally Posted by AMGpowerc55
Anyone have any ideas about cleaning the engine? Should I even bother or should I just leave it to the pro's?
Any advice would be great!
Any advice would be great!
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2001 E320 RWD - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 100,000+
Cleaning engines
Originally Posted by AMGpowerc55
Anyone have any ideas about cleaning the engine? Should I even bother or should I just leave it to the pro's?
Any advice would be great!
Any advice would be great!
Common knowledge used to be that you shouldn't use a high-pressure water spray (like a power washer) or a steam cleaner on them. I think that this is still true, and one of my mechanics said to avoid cleaning them all together.
If you search the threads and find some good tips for a DIY, please post them here, because I'd like to do mine myself the next time.
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Engine Detailing
Engine detailing simply implies cleaning the engine compartment and applying protective products to wiring, vinyl and rubber hoses and shields. It's not a difficult task, albeit the first time cleaning is a somewhat messy one. Then after the initial detailing it's just a matter of maintenance.
It's really an easy 45-60 minute task every 2-3 months, the benefits are to increase the resale value of the vehicle and also highlight any leaks that can be rectified prior to becoming a major service repair.
A correctly detailed vehicle looks impeccable, both the exterior and interior of the vehicle, why not extend the same standard to the engine compartment?
Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or a citrus-based general cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry)
•Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.
Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe
Belts:
Using a belt dressing to stop it ‘squealing’ means you are putting off replacing the belt or its tensioner. It's squealing for a reason, if you use a belt dressing to ‘shine’ the material it may well cause belt slippage/wear. If any of this type of products gets into the air intake it will harm/render useless any sensors. Just stick to 303™ Aerospace Protectant and proper maintenance on your vehicle.
It's really an easy 45-60 minute task every 2-3 months, the benefits are to increase the resale value of the vehicle and also highlight any leaks that can be rectified prior to becoming a major service repair.
A correctly detailed vehicle looks impeccable, both the exterior and interior of the vehicle, why not extend the same standard to the engine compartment?
Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or a citrus-based general cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry)
•Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.
Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe
Belts:
Using a belt dressing to stop it ‘squealing’ means you are putting off replacing the belt or its tensioner. It's squealing for a reason, if you use a belt dressing to ‘shine’ the material it may well cause belt slippage/wear. If any of this type of products gets into the air intake it will harm/render useless any sensors. Just stick to 303™ Aerospace Protectant and proper maintenance on your vehicle.
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1999 C43, 1992 BMW 325iC
Originally Posted by TOGWT
Engine detailing simply implies cleaning the engine compartment and applying protective products to wiring, vinyl and rubber hoses and shields. It's not a difficult task, albeit the first time cleaning is a somewhat messy one. Then after the initial detailing it's just a matter of maintenance.
It's really an easy 45-60 minute task every 2-3 months, the benefits are to increase the resale value of the vehicle and also highlight any leaks that can be rectified prior to becoming a major service repair.
A correctly detailed vehicle looks impeccable, both the exterior and interior of the vehicle, why not extend the same standard to the engine compartment?
Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or a citrus-based general cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry)
•Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.
Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe
Belts:
Using a belt dressing to stop it ‘squealing’ means you are putting off replacing the belt or its tensioner. It's squealing for a reason, if you use a belt dressing to ‘shine’ the material it may well cause belt slippage/wear. If any of this type of products gets into the air intake it will harm/render useless any sensors. Just stick to 303™ Aerospace Protectant and proper maintenance on your vehicle.
It's really an easy 45-60 minute task every 2-3 months, the benefits are to increase the resale value of the vehicle and also highlight any leaks that can be rectified prior to becoming a major service repair.
A correctly detailed vehicle looks impeccable, both the exterior and interior of the vehicle, why not extend the same standard to the engine compartment?
Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or a citrus-based general cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry)
•Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.
Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe
Belts:
Using a belt dressing to stop it ‘squealing’ means you are putting off replacing the belt or its tensioner. It's squealing for a reason, if you use a belt dressing to ‘shine’ the material it may well cause belt slippage/wear. If any of this type of products gets into the air intake it will harm/render useless any sensors. Just stick to 303™ Aerospace Protectant and proper maintenance on your vehicle.
BTW, does anyone have any experience using any of the Sonus products advertised on Autopia?