Menzerna Issue
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From: NJ
Menzerna Issue
I bought the Menzerna Intense polish and final polish from proper auto care, and im using a porter cable random orbital, But i am having no success removing even the smallest swirls with the intense polish. For some reason the final polish is removing more swirls than the intense poilish. By the way im using a orange pad. Thanks in advance for your ideas
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If you're new to detailing it may take a little while to get used to using the PC or working optimally with it. The Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II are great products when used properly with the Porter Cable 7424. The biggest thing that people need to adjust when using these polishes with the PC is that they need more pressure. You don't want too much but pressing the buffer down a little bit is needed to really help buff out swirls. I recommend starting off with light pressure and working your way up with more pressure as needed. Additionally it takes multiple slow passes over an area to really work the product in. Polishes need heat and pressure to break down and really buff the polish in for maximum results.
In summary if you go nice and slow with good pressure you should start seeing more swirls removed.
Greg @ Detailed Image
In summary if you go nice and slow with good pressure you should start seeing more swirls removed.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Last edited by Greg@DI; Oct 10, 2006 at 11:05 AM.
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If you're new to detailing it may take a little while to get used to using the PC or working optimally with it. The Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II are great products when used properly with the Porter Cable 7424. The biggest thing that people need to adjust when using these polishes with the PC is that they need more pressure. You don't want too much but pressing the buffer down a little bit is needed to really help buff out swirls. I recommend starting off with light pressure and working your way up with more pressure as needed. Additionally it takes multiple slow passes over an area to really work the product in. Polishes need heat and pressure to break down and really buff the polish in for maximum results.
In summary if you go nice and slow with good pressure you should start seeing more swirls removed.
Greg @ Detailed Image
In summary if you go nice and slow with good pressure you should start seeing more swirls removed.
Greg @ Detailed Image
I have been using the Menzerna polishes for close to 2 years. Something that might also be a problem is the speed of the PC buffer. I started out at lower speeds until I discovered that I was wasting my time. I have obtained the best results by using it set at #6. This setting with pressure generates the heat needed to make it effective.
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From: NY
Greg,
I have been using the Menzerna polishes for close to 2 years. Something that might also be a problem is the speed of the PC buffer. I started out at lower speeds until I discovered that I was wasting my time. I have obtained the best results by using it set at #6. This setting with pressure generates the heat needed to make it effective.
I have been using the Menzerna polishes for close to 2 years. Something that might also be a problem is the speed of the PC buffer. I started out at lower speeds until I discovered that I was wasting my time. I have obtained the best results by using it set at #6. This setting with pressure generates the heat needed to make it effective.
Thanks for the reminder!
Greg @ Detailed Image
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I have been using the itense polish on a speed of 4.5.
Will increasing the speed make that much of a difference?
Is the intense polish the best polish i can use to remove swirls? It doesnt feel abrasive at all. I get better results polishing by hand than with the porter cable.
Will increasing the speed make that much of a difference?
Is the intense polish the best polish i can use to remove swirls? It doesnt feel abrasive at all. I get better results polishing by hand than with the porter cable.
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From: Albany, NY
You would notice a difference in going from speed setting 4.5 to 6 or even 5 for that matter (there's no inbetween speeds on the PC from 5 - 6). Just to clarify, when Greg mentioned slow passes, he was referring to the movement of the buffer, not the speed setting. I usually like to work with speed setting 5 and if its not doing the trick I bump it up to 6 or adjust my polish or aggressiveness of the pad.
Each 2' x 2' area should take anywhere from 3 - 5 mintues. If you aren't getting the results you are looking for, work in smaller areas like 1' x 1' until you are getting the desired results.
The Menzerna line of polishes do not use gritty abrasives they use more (quantity) finer abrasives. This is why it is essential to really work the product into the paint for the polishes to properly break down as they are designed to do.
You might want to pick up a practice hood from a junkyard or work on a beater car until you get your technique down. Intensive Polish is a great polish and if you are seeing that the Final Polish II is doing more for removing swirls, I can almost assure you that the polish is not being broken down.
Hope this helps.
George @ Detailed Image
Each 2' x 2' area should take anywhere from 3 - 5 mintues. If you aren't getting the results you are looking for, work in smaller areas like 1' x 1' until you are getting the desired results.
The Menzerna line of polishes do not use gritty abrasives they use more (quantity) finer abrasives. This is why it is essential to really work the product into the paint for the polishes to properly break down as they are designed to do.
You might want to pick up a practice hood from a junkyard or work on a beater car until you get your technique down. Intensive Polish is a great polish and if you are seeing that the Final Polish II is doing more for removing swirls, I can almost assure you that the polish is not being broken down.
Hope this helps.
George @ Detailed Image
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From: NJ
Thanks for your help guys. Now im experimenting with speeds on the porter cable. Im trying 5 and 6. ^ works much better. I just question how come you would start at 5 then work up to 6 if you need to. Why not just keep the machine set at 6.
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Glad to hear those tips and suggestions helped. Ideally in detailing you want to solve the problem with the least aggressive solution when possible. Also there is more room for error if you start very aggressive when there are more simple solutions available.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg @ Detailed Image
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From: NJ
Thanks for your help, I did get better results using the PC on 5 and 6. I have another question
* How long shall i run the machine a 2 x 2 panel. Until the wax is gone? Starting to dry up?
* also what is best to use after final polish, Zaino or FMJ?
Thanks in advance guys,
* How long shall i run the machine a 2 x 2 panel. Until the wax is gone? Starting to dry up?
* also what is best to use after final polish, Zaino or FMJ?
Thanks in advance guys,
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From: NY
Here is our guide to using the buffer with waxes and sealants. Polishes require a little different technique so let me know if thats what you were referring to.
Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%. With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3" per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2' x 2' area has been completed. After completing the 2' x 2' area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2' x 2' panel should have received four passes.)
This should be more than enough to work on the wax or sealant. These products bond to your clear coat by the friction created from the applicator. There always be some product underneath your pad when applying because you don't want to be buffing with a dry pad. If there is no wax underneath the pad then you're running the pad dry on the clear coat. I try to have a thin layer of wax and sealant under the pad when buffing. Too much product is also a waste because only a thin amount can actually adhere to the clear coat.
As for whats better after Final Polish II its really a matter of opinion. I use the Menzerna FMJ and get outstanding results with it. I really like the way it applies and removes so easy with super durable protection and an outstanding shine.
Let me know if there is anything else we can help you with.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%. With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3" per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2' x 2' area has been completed. After completing the 2' x 2' area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2' x 2' panel should have received four passes.)
This should be more than enough to work on the wax or sealant. These products bond to your clear coat by the friction created from the applicator. There always be some product underneath your pad when applying because you don't want to be buffing with a dry pad. If there is no wax underneath the pad then you're running the pad dry on the clear coat. I try to have a thin layer of wax and sealant under the pad when buffing. Too much product is also a waste because only a thin amount can actually adhere to the clear coat.
As for whats better after Final Polish II its really a matter of opinion. I use the Menzerna FMJ and get outstanding results with it. I really like the way it applies and removes so easy with super durable protection and an outstanding shine.
Let me know if there is anything else we can help you with.
Greg @ Detailed Image
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2003 E500
I concur with Greg about FMJ. It's sooooo freakin' easy to use, and the results are outstanding.
Zaino is a good product as well, but is finiky and takes a whole lot of steps to acheive what I get with FMJ.
Zaino is a good product as well, but is finiky and takes a whole lot of steps to acheive what I get with FMJ.
