cleaning chrome wheels?
01-10-2007, 01:59 PM
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cleaning chrome wheels?
Hi there, I am having a hard time removing all these black stuff on my wheels and inner well of my wheels the salt after the snow night and brake dust... the wheels became really dull and these black stuff are stuck onto the wheels.
i have been trying to rub off the stuff but it doesn't seems to work... i am just wondering what exactly can i use to remove these black spots(brake dust?) and have the chrome shines again? also, does anyone know a way to reach into the inner well of the wheels without hurting urself? lol cause the space b/w that is pretty tight
i have been trying to rub off the stuff but it doesn't seems to work... i am just wondering what exactly can i use to remove these black spots(brake dust?) and have the chrome shines again? also, does anyone know a way to reach into the inner well of the wheels without hurting urself? lol cause the space b/w that is pretty tight
01-10-2007, 02:50 PM
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Wheel surface Cleaning:
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.
It is important to keep wheel surfaces clean, as well as improving the overall look of the vehicle leaving them dirty can have many adverse effects; the black powder coating on the surface of your wheel has four components; a static friction charge (caused by the pads contact with the rotors) that attracts dirt, road tar and other contaminants kicked up by both your vehicle and others. Friction heats the pads and callipers to extremely high temperatures, and causes tiny particles of hot metal to wear off and sent flying in different directions.
Many of these hot metal particles land on your rim and literally fuse themselves to the surface. Finally there is brake pad adhesive, modern brake pads are complex compounds of metals, synthetic materials and adhesives (the binder system) which is designed to wear away under friction like the rest of the pad. The adhesives used in brake pads can be very difficult to remove and they are also corrosive and will etch the wheel surface, the metal particles from the pads and rotors will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint surface of your wheel.
1. Road dirt / Tar should be removed with a solvent type cleaner (Stoner’s Tarminator ™ ) and any bonded contaminants or over spray removed with Detailer's Clay, then clean surface with a chemical cleaner / polish (Klasse All-In-One) wash and dry wheel surface thoroughly.
2.Once the brake dust has been removed with a 100% acid-free wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) apply a citrus based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) to the surface, agitate with a boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse off, dry thoroughly and then apply a polymer sealant for protection, this will also make future cleaning easier. A polymer is recommended (Klasse All-In-One or Zoopseal) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF) compared to Carnauba wax (180oF) a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun.
3.Stubborn brake dust- Power Wheel Cleaner (http://www.topoftheline.com/) even though it does not contain harsh acids, it dissolves the adhesive that is mixed with the brake dust. (This is why brake dust is so difficult to remove.) Just spray on wheels and tires, agitate with brush if needed, and hose-off. Don't worry if you accidentally spray your vehicle's body, it will not harm the paint.
4.Periodically remove the wheels (one at a time) to enable the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Should the wheel surface have small scratches they can he removed with a mildly abrasive polish. The inner rims are usually unfinished aluminium, remove any road tar with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a solvent cleaner (Stoner™ Tarminator) and then use detailer’s clay to remove any surface / imbedded contaminates. Dependant upon there condition clean with P21S Total Auto Wash and then spray P21S Wheel Cleaner (Regular or Gel) (http://www.autogeek.net) allow to dwell for five to ten minutes (5-10) and then use a stream of clean water to remove residue.
5.If this doesn’t remove the imbedded brake dust (sequestered brake dust will etch aluminium over time) the surface will need to be levelled using fine grade (2000/2500/3000) Nikken finishing papers and a block.
6.Apply a protective product, a polymer is recommended (Klasse All-In-One or ZoopSeal) (http://www.autogeek.net) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF+) compared to Carnauba wax (185oF+/- ) as a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun.
Caution- avoid metal polishing products that contain anhydrous ammonia, solvents or acids, or zinc, which is often present in aluminium in large quantities, as it can be dissolved very easily by ammonia, the related anhydrous chemicals and acids. Avoid wheel cleaners that contain Hydrofluoric acid, Oxalic, or strong mixes of Sulfuric / Phosphoric acids.
Wheel Detailing Brush:
This non-scratch, very flexible, E-Z Detail Brush is 18 inches long, 4-1/2 inches in diameter and is super-soft with Nylex bristles, a material that combines the softness of a natural bristle with the strength of nylon. There's a vinyl tip bonded to the top of the brush and a knuckle guard on the handle but the most impressive feature of this brush is the flexible, inner core. This vinyl-coated wire core will bend in every imaginable direction which allows the brush to get into areas where few other brushes can reach. http://www.properautocare.com/ezdetailbrush.html
Alternative product- Spoke & Slot Brush - Simple, safe, and effective, ultra-soft bristles squeeze into wheel crevices. Topoftheline
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.
It is important to keep wheel surfaces clean, as well as improving the overall look of the vehicle leaving them dirty can have many adverse effects; the black powder coating on the surface of your wheel has four components; a static friction charge (caused by the pads contact with the rotors) that attracts dirt, road tar and other contaminants kicked up by both your vehicle and others. Friction heats the pads and callipers to extremely high temperatures, and causes tiny particles of hot metal to wear off and sent flying in different directions.
Many of these hot metal particles land on your rim and literally fuse themselves to the surface. Finally there is brake pad adhesive, modern brake pads are complex compounds of metals, synthetic materials and adhesives (the binder system) which is designed to wear away under friction like the rest of the pad. The adhesives used in brake pads can be very difficult to remove and they are also corrosive and will etch the wheel surface, the metal particles from the pads and rotors will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint surface of your wheel.
1. Road dirt / Tar should be removed with a solvent type cleaner (Stoner’s Tarminator ™ ) and any bonded contaminants or over spray removed with Detailer's Clay, then clean surface with a chemical cleaner / polish (Klasse All-In-One) wash and dry wheel surface thoroughly.
2.Once the brake dust has been removed with a 100% acid-free wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) apply a citrus based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) to the surface, agitate with a boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse off, dry thoroughly and then apply a polymer sealant for protection, this will also make future cleaning easier. A polymer is recommended (Klasse All-In-One or Zoopseal) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF) compared to Carnauba wax (180oF) a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun.
3.Stubborn brake dust- Power Wheel Cleaner (http://www.topoftheline.com/) even though it does not contain harsh acids, it dissolves the adhesive that is mixed with the brake dust. (This is why brake dust is so difficult to remove.) Just spray on wheels and tires, agitate with brush if needed, and hose-off. Don't worry if you accidentally spray your vehicle's body, it will not harm the paint.
4.Periodically remove the wheels (one at a time) to enable the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Should the wheel surface have small scratches they can he removed with a mildly abrasive polish. The inner rims are usually unfinished aluminium, remove any road tar with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a solvent cleaner (Stoner™ Tarminator) and then use detailer’s clay to remove any surface / imbedded contaminates. Dependant upon there condition clean with P21S Total Auto Wash and then spray P21S Wheel Cleaner (Regular or Gel) (http://www.autogeek.net) allow to dwell for five to ten minutes (5-10) and then use a stream of clean water to remove residue.
5.If this doesn’t remove the imbedded brake dust (sequestered brake dust will etch aluminium over time) the surface will need to be levelled using fine grade (2000/2500/3000) Nikken finishing papers and a block.
6.Apply a protective product, a polymer is recommended (Klasse All-In-One or ZoopSeal) (http://www.autogeek.net) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF+) compared to Carnauba wax (185oF+/- ) as a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun.
Caution- avoid metal polishing products that contain anhydrous ammonia, solvents or acids, or zinc, which is often present in aluminium in large quantities, as it can be dissolved very easily by ammonia, the related anhydrous chemicals and acids. Avoid wheel cleaners that contain Hydrofluoric acid, Oxalic, or strong mixes of Sulfuric / Phosphoric acids.
Wheel Detailing Brush:
This non-scratch, very flexible, E-Z Detail Brush is 18 inches long, 4-1/2 inches in diameter and is super-soft with Nylex bristles, a material that combines the softness of a natural bristle with the strength of nylon. There's a vinyl tip bonded to the top of the brush and a knuckle guard on the handle but the most impressive feature of this brush is the flexible, inner core. This vinyl-coated wire core will bend in every imaginable direction which allows the brush to get into areas where few other brushes can reach. http://www.properautocare.com/ezdetailbrush.html
Alternative product- Spoke & Slot Brush - Simple, safe, and effective, ultra-soft bristles squeeze into wheel crevices. Topoftheline
01-14-2007, 12:23 PM
#3
TOGWT - great post as always, it was a great read for me too, thanks!
I love to clean my wheels with the P21S Metal Polishing Soap. I find it does a great job of cleaning the wheels and shining them while being a very easy to use product. Just wet the supplied applicator sponge and wipe it across the soap and you'll have a rich lather that is easy to clean wheels with. If you prefer a spray on product the P21S Wheel Gel is very easy and safe to use. For really bad contaminates, deep stains or stuborn brake dust I use the P21S Finish Restorer. This is the deepest cleaning metal polish I've ever used. I use both these products on chrome trim, exhaust tips and other metal surfaces. After cleaning the wheels I highly recommend applying a sealant for protection. The brake dust comes off at such a high temperature that it literally sizzles on the wheel etching itself in. The most durable wheel sealant I've used is the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. It helps reduce build-ups and makes future cleanings easier. This is also our January site special, only $9.99 (regularly $15.99). As for getting on the inside of the wheel well, no easy methods. You can use jacks or stands to lift the vehicle up or you can have the wheels taken off, cleaned and then rotated or just put back on.
Greg @ Detailed Image
I love to clean my wheels with the P21S Metal Polishing Soap. I find it does a great job of cleaning the wheels and shining them while being a very easy to use product. Just wet the supplied applicator sponge and wipe it across the soap and you'll have a rich lather that is easy to clean wheels with. If you prefer a spray on product the P21S Wheel Gel is very easy and safe to use. For really bad contaminates, deep stains or stuborn brake dust I use the P21S Finish Restorer. This is the deepest cleaning metal polish I've ever used. I use both these products on chrome trim, exhaust tips and other metal surfaces. After cleaning the wheels I highly recommend applying a sealant for protection. The brake dust comes off at such a high temperature that it literally sizzles on the wheel etching itself in. The most durable wheel sealant I've used is the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. It helps reduce build-ups and makes future cleanings easier. This is also our January site special, only $9.99 (regularly $15.99). As for getting on the inside of the wheel well, no easy methods. You can use jacks or stands to lift the vehicle up or you can have the wheels taken off, cleaned and then rotated or just put back on.
Greg @ Detailed Image
