How To Remove Hard Water Stains
06-20-2007, 08:52 PM
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1987 E300 TD
How To Remove Hard Water Stains
So I live in SoCal, and they put new chemicals in the water out here....making it very very hard water when I wash my car. I noticed that when I washed the car, I forgot to wipe down the rear corner of the bumper. This left very hard water spots all over that section, I've attempted to re-wet the area and use Meguiars NXT Carwash to possibly remove the residue. After trying this out it became unsuccessful.....what should I do?
06-21-2007, 06:08 AM
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
There are two categories of water spot-
Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
a)Surface water spots- (Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline
b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage Two Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates - A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system -
http:// www.autoint.com
Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
a)Surface water spots- (Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline
b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage Two Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates - A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system -
http:// www.autoint.com
06-21-2007, 10:46 AM
#3
Watermarks can be caused by mineral deposits, acid rain and other contaminates in water that etch into the clear. The sun or a warm clear coat will expedite this process and generally cause deeper etchings. Water from sprinklers (or hoses) is a common cause of this and the paint only needs a little bit of time exposed to the clear coat to cause problems. Since your marks did not come out with a light cleaning I think you'll need to go right to something a little stronger.
It sounds like your marks are etched into the clear coat which generally requires a cutting polish. Unless the marks are extremely faint they generally requires a minimum of two coats of polish. Initially we recommend using a medium cutting polish followed by a light finishing polish. The first polish is a medium cutting polish that will buff an ultra fine layer of clear coat where the watermarks have etched themselves into. This will also help remove imperfections such as oxidation, fine swirls and light scratches. A medium cutting polish can leave a slight haze behind so we always recommend using a lighter cutting polish after, also known as a finishing polish. These polishes use extremely fine abrasives that will eliminate any haze and make sure the surface is nice and glossy. This two-step process will allow more light to pass through the clear coat so you get a deep reflection from your paint. These steps may sound a little intimidating but it’s really very easy to do and yields some pretty amazing results. Here are the products we recommend you use to permanently remove the watermarks.
Menzerna Intensive Polish - orange cutting pad
Menzerna Final Polish II – white polishing pad
These products work best when applied with the Porter Cable or other quality buffer.
To prevent watermarks and other imperfections from happening (aside from the obvious of avoiding places with sprinklers, parking inside, etc.) is to layer sealants on your clear coat. Sealants are like waxes but more durable and protect your paint better. Is this method fool proof? Certainly not, but its better than just waxing or doing nothing. Additionally if you clay and polish the surface it will be smoother which has two main benefits: 1.) A smoother surface will help moisture roll off easier and form finer beads 2.) The sealant will adhere to the clear coat better. I also personally like to apply at least two coats of sealant to my vehicles for extra strong protection and shine.
Greg @ Detailed Image
It sounds like your marks are etched into the clear coat which generally requires a cutting polish. Unless the marks are extremely faint they generally requires a minimum of two coats of polish. Initially we recommend using a medium cutting polish followed by a light finishing polish. The first polish is a medium cutting polish that will buff an ultra fine layer of clear coat where the watermarks have etched themselves into. This will also help remove imperfections such as oxidation, fine swirls and light scratches. A medium cutting polish can leave a slight haze behind so we always recommend using a lighter cutting polish after, also known as a finishing polish. These polishes use extremely fine abrasives that will eliminate any haze and make sure the surface is nice and glossy. This two-step process will allow more light to pass through the clear coat so you get a deep reflection from your paint. These steps may sound a little intimidating but it’s really very easy to do and yields some pretty amazing results. Here are the products we recommend you use to permanently remove the watermarks.
Menzerna Intensive Polish - orange cutting pad
Menzerna Final Polish II – white polishing pad
These products work best when applied with the Porter Cable or other quality buffer.
To prevent watermarks and other imperfections from happening (aside from the obvious of avoiding places with sprinklers, parking inside, etc.) is to layer sealants on your clear coat. Sealants are like waxes but more durable and protect your paint better. Is this method fool proof? Certainly not, but its better than just waxing or doing nothing. Additionally if you clay and polish the surface it will be smoother which has two main benefits: 1.) A smoother surface will help moisture roll off easier and form finer beads 2.) The sealant will adhere to the clear coat better. I also personally like to apply at least two coats of sealant to my vehicles for extra strong protection and shine.
Greg @ Detailed Image
06-22-2007, 01:40 PM
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Cobra/E55
Watermarks can be caused by mineral deposits, acid rain and other contaminates in water that etch into the clear. The sun or a warm clear coat will expedite this process and generally cause deeper etchings. Water from sprinklers (or hoses) is a common cause of this and the paint only needs a little bit of time exposed to the clear coat to cause problems. Since your marks did not come out with a light cleaning I think you'll need to go right to something a little stronger.
It sounds like your marks are etched into the clear coat which generally requires a cutting polish. Unless the marks are extremely faint they generally requires a minimum of two coats of polish. Initially we recommend using a medium cutting polish followed by a light finishing polish. The first polish is a medium cutting polish that will buff an ultra fine layer of clear coat where the watermarks have etched themselves into. This will also help remove imperfections such as oxidation, fine swirls and light scratches. A medium cutting polish can leave a slight haze behind so we always recommend using a lighter cutting polish after, also known as a finishing polish. These polishes use extremely fine abrasives that will eliminate any haze and make sure the surface is nice and glossy. This two-step process will allow more light to pass through the clear coat so you get a deep reflection from your paint. These steps may sound a little intimidating but it’s really very easy to do and yields some pretty amazing results. Here are the products we recommend you use to permanently remove the watermarks.
Menzerna Intensive Polish - orange cutting pad
Menzerna Final Polish II – white polishing pad
These products work best when applied with the Porter Cable or other quality buffer.
To prevent watermarks and other imperfections from happening (aside from the obvious of avoiding places with sprinklers, parking inside, etc.) is to layer sealants on your clear coat. Sealants are like waxes but more durable and protect your paint better. Is this method fool proof? Certainly not, but its better than just waxing or doing nothing. Additionally if you clay and polish the surface it will be smoother which has two main benefits: 1.) A smoother surface will help moisture roll off easier and form finer beads 2.) The sealant will adhere to the clear coat better. I also personally like to apply at least two coats of sealant to my vehicles for extra strong protection and shine.
Greg @ Detailed Image
It sounds like your marks are etched into the clear coat which generally requires a cutting polish. Unless the marks are extremely faint they generally requires a minimum of two coats of polish. Initially we recommend using a medium cutting polish followed by a light finishing polish. The first polish is a medium cutting polish that will buff an ultra fine layer of clear coat where the watermarks have etched themselves into. This will also help remove imperfections such as oxidation, fine swirls and light scratches. A medium cutting polish can leave a slight haze behind so we always recommend using a lighter cutting polish after, also known as a finishing polish. These polishes use extremely fine abrasives that will eliminate any haze and make sure the surface is nice and glossy. This two-step process will allow more light to pass through the clear coat so you get a deep reflection from your paint. These steps may sound a little intimidating but it’s really very easy to do and yields some pretty amazing results. Here are the products we recommend you use to permanently remove the watermarks.
Menzerna Intensive Polish - orange cutting pad
Menzerna Final Polish II – white polishing pad
These products work best when applied with the Porter Cable or other quality buffer.
To prevent watermarks and other imperfections from happening (aside from the obvious of avoiding places with sprinklers, parking inside, etc.) is to layer sealants on your clear coat. Sealants are like waxes but more durable and protect your paint better. Is this method fool proof? Certainly not, but its better than just waxing or doing nothing. Additionally if you clay and polish the surface it will be smoother which has two main benefits: 1.) A smoother surface will help moisture roll off easier and form finer beads 2.) The sealant will adhere to the clear coat better. I also personally like to apply at least two coats of sealant to my vehicles for extra strong protection and shine.
Greg @ Detailed Image
