Whats goin on everybody, ive been reading up on zaino products extensivley and have done a post and checked there FAQs on the zaino bros questions, here are some that remain unanswered

I've never, im talking never applied any sort of wax or polish to my car, as a first time user the instructions look pretty clear, is this zaino business achivable, or should i stick to something more generic

Is the paint job on a w211 clear coat ie should i be getting z2 or z3, were taking delivery of a platinum/tealite blue w211 in bout two weeks

Anybody know where i can get zaino products in northern cali/san jose area

Thanks a bunch for your help guys

 

Yes, Zaino is doable. You gotta be serious and invest some serious time at first if you want to do it right. From then on, it's pretty easy. Or you could just go through the car washes and have a clean, but dull or swirled finish.

Yes, all new cars have clear coat. Pretty much the last 10 years or so they've all gone to clear coat.

You will need Z-18, the clay bar, to do it right. And Z-2, and Z-6. Oh, and the ZFX cure agent. I don't use Z-7 the car wash soap that doesn't strip wax, but I use MacGuier's Gold instead. Z-7 is probably better, but I didn't want to wait for delivery.

This whole procedure, if you take your time and do it thoroughly, should take an entire day of daylight, IMHO.

First, wash thoroughly with Dawn to strip all wax, oils, grease, etc. (esp. on a new car, look VERY carefully around the edges. You may have to use your fingernails to scrape off the adhesive from those white plastic protectors they put on new cars during shipping).

Second, I wash again with the good stuff, just to make sure I have a perfectly clean and stripped car. I highly recommend the two or three bucket method to keep your wash mitt clean of scratching particles, and DON'T DROP IT!

Third, at this point, move the car into a garage, carport, under a set-up tent, anywhere out of direct sun (not under a tree unless you want debris falling on the car while you're working). Don't bother drying the car at this stage, unless you are in some direct sun. You don't want water to dry on the car, that causes water spots, and water on metal acts like a magnifying glass and focuses the sun onto that point on your car, causing the water stains. If your car is already waxed in the future, water spots will eat through the wax, I understand.

Fourth, using Z-6 as lubricant, clay bar all the body metal on the car (don't bother with the air kit, bumpers, or other plastic areas). Don't push down hard, you don't have to scrub, just guide it and glide it over the surfaces. You can "feel" where you have and haven't already clay barred.

Fifth, back the car back out into the driveway, wash the car again to get rid of all the Clay bar residue. Move it back into the shade.

Sixth, dry thoroughly (100% cotton or high quality microfiber towels only, please). Start by doing the soft-water rinse to get rid of a lot of the water. Pop open doors, hatches, gas tank lids, etc. to get all the water that is going to drip. Especially door handles, side view mirrors, and body moulding. Some use canned, compressed air, others use a shop vac on the "blow" setting. others just stay at it with towels and get all the drips until the car thoroughly air dries. I go through about 3 bath towels and 6 wash-cloth sized towels. This is a good time to go grab lunch.

AFTER LUNCH

Seventh, mix the Z-2 with ZFX per their instructions. You will not use very much at all! Half of a 35mm film container is puh-lenty!

Eight, grab your foam or 100% cotton applicator. Prime it with a coupla spritzes of Z-6. Then put a dime sized dollop of Z-2 on the applicator and start off. Spread the stuff as thin as possible! Even when you think you're not spreading anymore, keep going. You can see the very tiny little dots of it if you look really, really hard.

Nine, let dry. Buff with 100% cotton towels or high quality microfiber.

Repeat eight and nine. For a good second coat. The more coats the better. If you re-wax every few months, you'll build a layer of coats that make the car incredibly mirror-like (See people's posted pix for examples!)

Don't forget to wax the chrome wheels if you got em!

I use Stoner's on the auto glass while I'm waiting for coats to dry.

HTH, it's only a synopsis. The more detailed steps and techniques are written out very well in the sticky's in this forum, thanks to AlBoston and a host of other guinea pigs, I mean contributors! Others have better or easier methods than mine, I'm sure. But it's like anything, everyone does things a bit differently, and no one is right or wrong (though we thing we're the only ones right, ) If someone notices I'm doing something majorly wrong, I'm sure they'll point it out! That's how I learned about the three-bucket method! I used to <shudder> only use one, and I used the same soapy water and mitt that I used to clean the wheels of brake dust. Micro-mar city. Thankfully that vehicle was sold a long time ago!

EDJ

 

a couple of additions...

Use Z7 mixed with water instead of expensive Z6 as a clay lube and clay the car while still wet from the wash. I would also recommend doing the bumpers and air dam etc.

Also I recommend waxing any type of rim your car has, it will help maintain the finish.

 

EDJ i am speechless, thank you so much for the long, detailed and compreshensive review of the steps to take , Al boston, thnaks for the tip, using z-7 mixed with water will save me alot of money

EDJ its funny you should mention the clay bar, i actually wasnt going to get it, thinking all their talk on raillroad and brake dust was just, well, marketing, thought id need it later since the car is new, does it make a difference in your opinion?

Oh and you guys mentioned waxing the wheels, errrrrr , anybody wanna tell me how to wax a rim? how many coats? how long etc? im sorry you guys and thanks agian for the support im just totally new to all this

 

Mellow,

You're welcome. Clay bar makes a huge deal not so much in how your car looks but in how your car feels. Smooth as polished glass after the claybar. Smooth as a cinderblock wall before the clay bar.

Plus, it removes those little 1/8inch rust marks that you only notice if you're washing your car carefully.

Yep, just put wax on the wheels (not the tires) just like you would any other metal. apply with applicator, let dry, wipe off.

Keeps the brake dust from settling on the wheels between washes and getting a "bond" thereby making removal of brake dust much easier when hosing off wheels or washing wheels with a soapy mitt.

PS--I **HIGHLY** recommend you read AlBoston's Sticky threads at the top of this forum's topic list, and the follow up questions and replies in those threads from other readers.

HTH,

EDJ

 

EDJ, ive read alot of the stickys not all of them though will go through them and ill check Al's replies, your invaluable advice is highly appreciated dude