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'05 Stone Leather

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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 01:00 PM
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WIldcat465's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, AZ
2007 CL600
'05 Stone Leather

Ihave stone interior on my '05 SL600 and I'm concerned about keeping it clean particularly with with the top down. The dealer offers a leather protectant; however, I'm skeptical about its effectiveness. What's the best way to keep my leather looking new and does the protection offered by the dealer work (or is it something that I can do myself?)
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 10:48 PM
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From: 2000 ft over the FL coast in a B-17
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I have stone and I think I must have been "stoned" when I bought it. My interior with 11k still looks and smells new but I go through exstensive prevention evrey day ie; the seat bottoms are covered with field crest towels that are a perfect color match, I've had problems with a black belt causing dye transfer into the seat back and MB changed it once, since then i place a manila file folder behind me, I also have clear protective mats over the carpeted ones. Yes I know this is all very extreme but my interior is perfect and I intend to keep it that way. I also use a lightly dampened towel once every two weeks to keep the street film off the leather and other areas.
I know I'll receive responses that think I'm and I probably am LOL.
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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From: Ponte Vedra Beach FL/ Hampstead, London, England
'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Originally Posted by WIldcat465
Ihave stone interior on my '05 SL600 and I'm concerned about keeping it clean particularly with with the top down. The dealer offers a leather protectant; however, I'm skeptical about its effectiveness. What's the best way to keep my leather looking new and does the protection offered by the dealer work (or is it something that I can do myself?)
1. Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp micro fibre towel to rinse.

Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time

Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Zanio’s Z-10 Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner)

Notes:
1. With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
2. The harsh use of chemicals actually keeps dirt trapped in the fibres of the leather. If you abuse or neglect your leather, it won't survive
3. Do not use- Saddle soap (it's made to clean an entirely different type of leather), abrasive cleaners, furniture leather polish (they contain a wax), products that contain harsh solvent s or alcohol, as they will cause the stitching to fray and eventually break, petroleum distillate, bleach or ammonia based products.
4. Keeping leather clean is important, but conditioning is the key to preserving its useful life, flexibility, appearance and longevity.

2. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products restore the lost moisture and maintain it's natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide.

Schedule: Once every 30-60 days, Arizona, Florida and Texas, especially in summer, for northern climates between 90-120 days, use a leather conditioner to restore these natural oils and keep the leather soft and supple. (Criot's Leather Care, Autoglym Leather Care Cream, Zanio Z10 Leather in a Bottle or Zymol Treat leather cleaners are all good maintenance products)

Notes:
a) Do not use- Silicone or Lanolin-based conditioning products as they have trouble reaching the leathers deep fibres, also avoid using leather-conditioning creams on covered leathers as they cannot penetrate the surface finish and the residue will remain leaving a greasy surface on the leather. Use a product that contains natural penetrating oils that will nourish the fibres and restore the leather to its natural suppleness.
b) Do not use- vinyl dressing on leather as it will clog the pores of the leather and not allow any essential oils to permeate to the fibre, which will cause the leather to dry out and crack
c) Conditioning products should be applied to a warm surface to help the oils penetrate the coating (warm with the suns heat or a hairdryer) allow sufficient time (preferably overnight) for the oils to permeate the coating and reach the leather underneath.
d) Avoid the use of Vinyl dressing products on leather upholstery, as it will not permeate to the leathers fibres.
e) It is possible to over-condition or over-clean your leather. This will lead to premature cracking and discoloration. Most leathers are treated at the tannery with a protective coating to help protect against staining. Excessive cleaning and conditioning can remove some of the protective properties. Carry a small spray bottle of water and a clean micro fibre cloth so if you ever spill something onto your leather, spray the affected area and wipe it as soon as possible, you should then treat the affected area with leather conditioner.
f) Conditioning oils will penetrate the fibres more efficiently if they are warmed first; place the plastic container in a microwave before using. For best results warm the leather also before application (vehicle heating system, hairdryer, or the suns heat Allow sufficient permeation time (4-6 hours) or overnight if possible, especially with coated or spray-on dye leathers.)

3. Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a UVR Protectant. One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UV protectant. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth lightly buff surface.


JonM
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 12:01 AM
  #4  
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My only caveat to the stone is getting dye transfer from a belt, other leather, or possibly denim.
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