Please don't beat me up on this crosspost
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
98 E300
Please don't beat me up on this crosspost
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...placement.html
I debated on where to put my thread and decided to put it in the W210 forum instead of the diesel forum. Responses have been few there, so I'm hoping someone here may have some pertinent info to share.
thanks
I debated on where to put my thread and decided to put it in the W210 forum instead of the diesel forum. Responses have been few there, so I'm hoping someone here may have some pertinent info to share.
thanks
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
98 E300
I cannot afford to pay someone to do this job right now. I will either do it myself or continue to live with the leak.
You can help by providing any tips on how to change the gasket without pulling the engine. Thanks again.
You can help by providing any tips on how to change the gasket without pulling the engine. Thanks again.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 625
Likes: 4
From: Australia
X350d GLE500e 2017, ML350 BlueTec 2012(sold), A200 2013, ML350CDI 2009(sold), Aston Martin DB7 2003
Not exactly sure about your car but this has been done on another make where the cross member blocked the sump removal but there was space around it.
1. Degrease as best possible and drain sump.
2. Remove four sump bolts diagonally opposed and replace with longer bolts but leave them 10mm from being tight.
3. Remove all other bolts and drop the sump by 10mm
4. The gasket may be partly attached to the block and partly to the sump but this is of no concern.
5. Apply a bead of silicon all around either above the gasket or below as required. Do not insert it too deep to prevent excess going into the crankcase.
6. Replace bolts and tighten sump.
7. run a final bead around the outer surface of the joint, or smear the excess over the joint as reuired to make a bond between the degreased outer surfaces and the silicon in the joint.
I used Silastic 732RTV but as you have EFI, you should use Silastic 747 RTV neutral cure.
Many miles of drip free motoring were achieved after this process.
1. Degrease as best possible and drain sump.
2. Remove four sump bolts diagonally opposed and replace with longer bolts but leave them 10mm from being tight.
3. Remove all other bolts and drop the sump by 10mm
4. The gasket may be partly attached to the block and partly to the sump but this is of no concern.
5. Apply a bead of silicon all around either above the gasket or below as required. Do not insert it too deep to prevent excess going into the crankcase.
6. Replace bolts and tighten sump.
7. run a final bead around the outer surface of the joint, or smear the excess over the joint as reuired to make a bond between the degreased outer surfaces and the silicon in the joint.
I used Silastic 732RTV but as you have EFI, you should use Silastic 747 RTV neutral cure.
Many miles of drip free motoring were achieved after this process.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
98 E300
Thanks for your suggestion, iankayem. I will get under the car to see if that is possible.
re #4: Did you re-use the original gasket or pull it out before applying the sealant?
re #4: Did you re-use the original gasket or pull it out before applying the sealant?
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 625
Likes: 4
From: Australia
X350d GLE500e 2017, ML350 BlueTec 2012(sold), A200 2013, ML350CDI 2009(sold), Aston Martin DB7 2003
No - definitely leave it there! You probably can only get a few mm clearance which is not enough to get the old gasket 100% clear. Therefore you must reuse it.
Obviously to guarantee a job, the sump must come off. but to do that, the motor must come out which is a big job.
If this method fails, you've wasted a tube of silicon and an afternoon. Compare that with a day or two with a fully equipped workshop plus sump and exhaust gaskets and maybe a few other incidentals.
Obviously to guarantee a job, the sump must come off. but to do that, the motor must come out which is a big job.
If this method fails, you've wasted a tube of silicon and an afternoon. Compare that with a day or two with a fully equipped workshop plus sump and exhaust gaskets and maybe a few other incidentals.
