I received a P24215 code from my 2007 E-320 Bluetec from the OBD II. Does anyone have any idea what this code is. An internet search failed to provide any answers.

Thanks,
Rob

 

Try this one :-http://www.actron.com/code_lookup.php

 

Thanks, great site but none of the codes have 5 numbers like this one. The shop was unable to reset the CEL either and since I was doing a smog check (yes, CA does smog checks on diesels), I failed it before I even get started. Yes, here in the garden state, it doesn't matter if your emissions are clean, your vehicle has to be like it was from the factory with no changes or CELs.....

 

Are there any symptoms that could help point toward a module?

 

I found on a german forum "Partikel Filter flow through restricted"

Drive the hell out of it for a couple of miles, so it regenerates and the light should come off...

 

I am familiar with the particulate filter and its purpose. The car runs perfectly - with the exception of an abrupt 2-1 downshift first thing in the morning and a significant delay if I am slow and I stomp on the accererator. And a slow oil leak somewhere at the back of the engine. Both of these conditions have existed since I bought the car 18 months ago with ` 73,000 miles. I now have 88,000 miles. For the last 16 months I have needed to replace the EGT Sensor just prior to the DP Filter (P2033 code) I finally did that since I need to pass my Ca smog test. My miles are 65% hwy, 35% city. I'll drive is for a few days with the new EGT sensor while I wait on a Blutooth OBD II sender so I can clear the codes and look at the data while I am driving. I use the proper oil and have not had any issues with needing to replace oil between oil changes. I do have a CEL that the mechanic said he couldn't reset because he could get the OBD II to comunicate with the car when it wasn't running. I am certain he didn't actually have the key in the "Run" position as in my car the radio comes on as soon as you insert the key so folk think that is the ACC position. You actually have to turn the key 2 positions to get to run. I love the car, but the lack of aftermarket parts, the ridiculously expensive factory parts (DP Filter $3,000+, O2 sensor $370, EGT Sensor $130), the fact average mechanics don't know how to work on them, special tools required (unique oil filter wrenches - really). I may just get rid of this thing and stick with either American of Japanese cars.

 

I ordered and received a cheap Bluetooth OBD II sender ($20) off EBAY and downloaded Torque Pro ($5) for my Thrive Tablet. I was able to clear my P2033 code but I received a pending P242F - DP Filter blockage code. I cleared them and drove the car around doing several hard starts and high speed runs on isolated areas of a local hiway hoping to regen/clean out the DP. The CEL didn't pop up until the next morning after I pulled the OBD II sender out. I will keep driving the car hoping for the best since it runs fine and still gets the same 30 MPG combined that it has always gotten. I checked with the stealer and they quoted me $2,211 for a new DP filter - just the part. MB should be ashamed for gouging like this. I guess their normal target audiance has enough money that they don't care. For the time being the car is down because my driver's side rear brake started grinding the rotor and I need to replace it.

 

dpf filters are that expensive, It might be covered under emissions, no?

 

They claim as a filter, it is a wear item. I am certain if more people knew about the lack of warrenty and the expense, they might avoid this car. I certainly will next time. It is a shame since I like the car, but I am tired of having to find a special tool everytime I attempt to perform basic maintenance. What is up with no drail plug in the oil pan.... And a spcial MB only oil filter wrench size... I am attempting to remove the rear brake caliper today and the 17mm wrench is too small and the 19mm is too big. What the hell? I said wrench, since there doesn't seem to be enough room for a socket unless I get a wooble extension since they didn't leave room for clear access to the caliper bolts. Reading through the forums, this seems to be a common theme with MB (my BMW wasn't any better). I do appreceiate all the great folks who post on these sites. Since MB doesn't want to make the maintence manuals available without taking out a second mortagage, it is near impossible to get anything done without the assitance the folks on this site have provided. Well I am off to SEARS since they sell 18mm wrenches and sockets,

 

The rear oil leak is an easy fix, and lots of info on it if you search the W164 forum. It's the seal where the intake duct clamps on to the turbo, or the seal in the sensor thats 90 degrees just before the turbo. (Think it's the same location with the E class as with the ML's.)
Since you bought this at 70000 + miles, that may explain some of your issues. The prior owner may not have used the correct oil or maintained properly knowing that they were going to get rid of it, thus saving them money, but costing you. Whether it was this MB or any brand vehicle, you have to accept the potential for issues when you buy a used vehicle with this many miles. Hopefully the price paid reflected the potential for this?
FYI, I just yesterday replaced my Exhaust Temp Sensor after 118000 miles, and have had no DPF issues. Hang in there.

 

If you do have to change the DPF make sure of the cause of the failure of the present one. ie a problem with regen, fuel mixture too rich , excess oil burning , incorrect oil ect. before spending your hard earned.

I have heard of some people taking it off & cleaning it mechanically.

 

Thanks for the inputs gentlemen. The car has been on jacks while I replaced the rear brake pads and rotors. After I went to Sears and bought a shallow soket set that included an 18mm socket and a ratcheting wrench set with an 18 mm socket, the brakes where easy to do. I always thought the ratcheting wrenches were a sales gimic, but it was great to use in that there wasn't much space and the torque applied to the bolt is inline with the bolt head. No twisting or slipping of a socket. The bonus is they were on sale. I think I paid either $30 or $40 for a 10 wrench set. The rotors on the back are thick enough that even with the scoring from the metal backing on the brake pad, the shop was able to turn them both. I have been searching for a place that cleans DPF filters and all I have found so far in the USA is places that do big rig trucks. It seems they have done it right. The filters ar flanged and modular so the filter is easy to remove and clean. Even on the Sprinter Van which uses the same engine as us, there is an aftermarket filter that is modular... I am not even certain which of the items in my exhuast is the DPF, which is the CAT and which is the muffler. I am assuming the CAT is first, the DPF is second and the muffler last, but on the Sprinter the DPF is the last item. The second item is welded to the exhaust pipe so it will not be easy to remove. What I think is the muffler is flanged and bolted on. Anyone know if that is the DPF?

 

DPF's do regens when they have a high differential pressure across the inlet Vs outlet so I presume they they would have "tapping points " before & after them to read the pressures.

You may be able to differentiate this way ?

 

Thanks Carsy, that makes sense. I believe it is turbo, CAT, DPF, muffler, tail pipe. I believe you meant to say "DPF do regens", not CATs, as CATs don't regenerate. The brakes are done so I'll drive it this week and see if anything improves now that the EGT has been fixed.

 

Sorry , yes , DPF's do regens

Good luck.

 

what type engine oil did you use on the car. It must be mb approved oil, especially for the dpf filters. incorrect oil can be a cause of this.

 

Update on my issues. On the 2007 E-320 Bluetec the exhaust is Turbo, Cat, DPF, CAT, Dual mufflers..... I was able to get the DPF off without cutting anything but it is near impossible to clean/drill the ceramic media due to the design - near impossible. A 2 foot 3/4 mason bit will do the trick. With that said, I still could not clear the CEL with my Bluetooth ODB II and the Torque app until I cleared it with the ignition on/car not running, started the car, then shut if off for 1 minute. After that the CEL stayed off for a 7 mile trip home. I ran the engine code check again and received a "pending" P242F- powertrain (DFP Ash accumulation) and a P3148 Exhaust bank 3 oxygen sensor before CAT, heater circuit, regulation at upper limit.
So, all I can find on the WEB is bank 1 and bank 2 for O2 sensors. MB uses Bank 3 and 4. Which side of the engine is this? Any idea if I just need a new O2 sensor or do I need something different? The car still runs fine after my "cleaning" of the DPF. I will say there is still a tremendous amount of resistance to airflow. I hooked a shop vac up to blow air through it and most of the air wants to blow back. The entire exhaust system seems overly restrictive. I wonder how good the MPG would be with a free flowing exhaust and a decent tune. I guess we'll never know here in Ca as our smog tests are very detailed.

 

I did use a high pressure sprayer initially. Only a little black soot came out. When I hooked my heat gun up to dry the DPF out, very little air made it through to the other end of the DPF - which is why I moved onto phase 2 of the cleaning....

 

Lastly for tonight, once I bought a new set of sockets & wrenches that had a 18mm size, the brakes where a snap to replace and there was enough rotor material left so I could get it turned. The new Akebono EUR986 EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake pads stop just as well and don't dust the wheels nearly as bad as the old pads. I do wish MB would use the old standby of the bent metal tang to let you know when the pads need replacing. The pads without the sensor where the ones to wear down to the metal backing...

 

Well, the CEL came back on this morning..... Looks like the DPF comes off for some more "Cleaning"... This happened last time as well. Since I had left the OBD II Bluetooth adapter connected while I drove, the CEL wouldn't come back on until I turned the car off for the night.

 

What you may need need is a chemical carbon desolver. I used them 40 years ago when on board ships cleaning diesel generator exhaust valves. We used to soak them in half a 44 gallon drum fo a couple of days & they came out perfect.

It is probably an unacceptable chemical today .

Here are links which you may find interesting.


http://www.jlmlubricants.com/en/prod...-cleaner-100ml

http://www.hdrg.org/2011Presentations/SPX.pdf

Google DPF Cleaning & see what you come uip with .

 

Well it has been 9 months since I gave up on the car an parked it in the garage. I finally broke down and bought a new DPF. The local stealer wanted $3,200 for it. I point out to them that it was available from the online MB parts distributer for $2,100 and it claims the MSRP is $2,700 so what gives? The guy asked if I worked for a shop, I said no but I am military so... So he gave it to me for $2,200. I guess I should be happy, but what a mark up. Obviously they are still making money on it at $2,200 and they were going to gouge me for an extra $1,000.... Anyway, I replaced the DPF and much to my dismay, I still have the P242F code telling me my DPF is blocked, plus a few more codes - P2039, P3012, and P3148. I have cleared them with my OBD II BT reader and Torque program but they come back. While I had the car in the garage, I cleaned all the gunk off the front and bottom of the engine and replaced the serpentine belt. Also the driver's side HID, low beam and parking lamp no longer work?????? I looked for a fuse or disconnected wire but couldn't find a fuse listed and all the wires looked good. The car still runs great. I drove it for about 80 miles. I am completely frustrated with this thing. I love the way it drives and the mileage, but I hate the lack of available information. I only have 90,000 miles on this thing. I have 130,000 on my F-250 SD and we have 122,000 on my wife's RX-400H. No problems with either of those vehicles - well I am replacing the ball joints and front rotors on the truck but I have towed a 40 ft trailer all over the country with it.

So does anyone have any experience with the P2039, P3012, and P3148 codes? Also, my torque program said these codes may only be clearable by the car's computer after an "N" drive or something. Any ideas? I am wondering if my cheap tablet program is just unable to clear the codes permanently.

 

I wonder whether your DPF sensor and or instrument control lines are faulty/blocked ?.

Can you remove & blow the lines clear ?

 

I doubt that the lines are clogged since before I parked the car last fall, I performed the ultimate cleaning with a 3/4 drill bit. The car ran just fine, but it did toss some codes that told me there wasn't enough back pressure... LOL Damn computer. No issues with how it ran however. Those codes are now gone with the new DPF. Even so I'll check and see how difficult it is to check the lines. The sensor is under the car up close to the driveshaft. I know some folks over in Europe attach a potentiometer to the output wire and adjust it until they get the correct reading after performing an DPFectomy. I did pull my rear O2 sensor and it was very sooty. Also after only driving it about 80 miles it seems like the oil is coming out of an intake fitting near the front of the car. I'm not certain if that oil is from the turbo or the crankcase breather. My VW TDI (actually all VW TDIs) have a real problem with this issue as well. The accepted solution is a part from BMW that is a centrifugal oil air separator. I just installed one a couple weeks ago. It seems to be helping my TDI a bunch.