Loss of power. After warm up and after trying to accelerate quickly the RPM's won't go over 3,000. Found the turbo actuator sticks and won't move. When I turn off ignition and restart the actuator works again. Code is P0266 turbo underboost. I disconnected actuator rod and it works just find by hand and no binding is felt. Car has 90,000 miles. Dealer said it was O2 sensors and I pulled car as they were replaced by prior non MB shop and codes I read were not O2 sensors. Tired of getting the run around and paying mechanics less qualified to replace parts.

1) Any suggestions where to go from here. I am not a master mechanic but have a lot of "old school" MB diesel history in trucks and construction motors.
2) Where is the best place to secure a service manual?

 

Check the plastic turbo duct work. Mine had a tiny split (hard to see unless you're looking for it) on the bottom. When the car would warm up and the boost would build up, there was enough pressure for that split to open up and have the boosted air leak out, which put the car into some sort of limp mode with similar codes.

 

Thank you for the input. I will check this again on the turbo duct work. The rubber seals on on the MAF tube are cut but appear to be sealing OK. I have also replaced the rubber seal at turbo connection.

Thanks for the info on service manual.

 

Update- I did pull MAF-Turbo duct work and also found prior (so called) mechanic had rolled rubber seals and split one when re-installing after replacing fuel filter. I went ahead and replaced with a new one. Didn't help. Now also throwing EGR code. Cleaned up EGR and code gone.

Still throwing a P0101 and P0266 code. Runs fine until warm then turbo actuator sticks. Stop-restart and ok till gets over 3000 rpm.

As Plutoe said "check for vacuum leaks", so far none found. Plan to get on lift and check further down under.

Anyone interested in a **ed up E320 Blue Tec one owner????

 

So I have a bit of information about this one. If it is truly an actuator problem, it's likely the electronic board has rattled enough to break one of the small connections. While there's nothing "mechanically" wrong with the turbo, the control board PCB is faulty. This is a problem cropping up a lot now that these turbos are aging, and it happens due to years of vibrating and not being built sturdy enough.

Now here's the kicker: apparently Garrett is not selling just the electronics component, and is instead saying the only way to fix is to replace the entire turbo ($4400 bucks @ mercedes, considerably less through third parties but still well over 1K).

Of course, this is ridiculous and borderline criminal. I haven't had to replace mine yet, but from what I understand is that there are several companies (mostly in europe) who are offering to refurb the unit (including the electronics component) for significantly less, but of course it requires a costly and time consuming removal to send it away.


I'm pretty bummed about learning about this myself and only wonder when my 96K bluetec will start encountering the same problem. I'm not sure if this directly applies to your situation, but my mechanic has had two cars in the shop over the last week that had the same problem and both were related to the electronic PCB. One was an R320 and the other was, believe it or not, a Jeep CRD that runs the OM642. They had been bringing it back and forth to the chrylser dealership for 6 months and even after flying in their master mechanic, they couldn't figure it out (because that jeep is basically a mercedes, right down to the engine, transmission and instrument cluster).

The sad part is that MB can't really be blamed for this, aside from choosing shady turbo supplier, who happens to be the top turbo supplier in the world (and also supplies for at least BMW & VW as well). Screw Garrett.

 

My 2009 Bluetec is acting up also. It has only 67000 miles on it.
After 5...10 miles driving it suddenly looses power, accelerator turns numb,
and kick down does not react. If I need to slow down, it is almost impossible regain speed again. Restarting returns the normal power but only for couple of minutes and the same problem returns again.
First it was tested by STAR and code was "turbo underboost". I removed
the turbo actuator and shipped it to: Automotive Scientific in TN. They
said there was a common mechanical issue and then refurbished it.($149).
Now it is doing exactly the same. No new codes.
This is kind of uncomfortable situation, the car has a clear malfunction
but nobody is able to tell what it is.
Anyway, I am contacting Scientific now and asking to repair it as a warranty issue. Will keep you posted.
Turbo&Electric, a Phoenix co, is offering new turbo and actuator for $2000.
I may be me last straw.

 

To: Kiloviktor582...I'll be awaiting to hear your answer from Scientific. I am still figuring out all components and wiring and sensors prior condemning the actuator. I would love to get the contact info for Automotive Scientific.

Thanks for your input.

 

Take a look at my notes above regarding the turbo ductwork. I haven't had the actuator problem, but have run into similar symptoms which turned out to be cracked ductwork expanding only once the car warmed up and i accelerated enough to generate a fair amount of boost (think flooring it to pass someone on the interstate while already going 70 MPH).

 

In my case I have inspected the intake-turbo duct work. When putting on the new MAF Sensor-duct tube is hard to see and the rubber seals at air filter boxes can roll on one if not careful reinstalling. I also found that on mine they had rolled the seals on the bottom and cut the seal up to the clamp area at air filter boxes. I replaced maf-duct tube on mine. This did not help issue but this must seal or it throws the entire system off kilter. You also need to watch the red rubber seal to turbo intake. It can also pop out of place. The new tube had locking tabs (seal to tube) to stop this from happening at replacement.

FCP was a company I found via this site. My new Maf tube was, in Genuine MB packaging, and was around $100 less cost than I found any where else. I think it was about $375.00

Still chasing mine issue.

 

Ughh.. sorry to hear it. I've had good luck with mine mostly (aside from the duct work) and have about 96K on it. The only other mechanical issue was the early 7-speed valve-body problem. Aside from that, I've had the following things screw up:
Multiple keyless door handles quit working because water gets inside
Climate Control not wanting to come on when it's insanely hot. Fixes itself after about 15 minutes (usually by end of the drive).
never-ending rattles from the pano roof
Latest: steering wheel angle sensor needs to be replaced, disabling all of my ESP functions
MB-Tex tearing (been garaged it's entire life).

Love the engine, but reading these stories make me wonder if mine is just a matter of time. I've been toying around with replacing her with either a 535D or a S350 Bluetec... but of which will probably prove to be even less reliable.

Curse the germans and their addictive cars.

 

I had this problem on and off for the past 3-4 years in my GL. There is a TSB grounding issue which I found searching through this forum. Think it was in the ML forum. Most recent lead to a replacement of the compressor. All of this was done under warranty so the dealer may have just thrown parts at it so no codes reappear fwiw..

 

Problem solved.
When the car was checked last time in an independent shop the STAR system confirmed which I already knew: "Turbo undeboost"
STAR then gives a list of extra points to check. The first one was checking all turbo related air ducts and connections. Nothing found. The last line was
to replace turbo and and actuator combination. Instead of spending $2000+
right away, I decided to refurbish the actuator at Automotive Scientific, TN.
(www.autoecu.com). They say that there was a common mechanical failure
in it. Cost: $149 + shippings. After reinstalling it the car felt a little better but then the power loss returned and I was back in square no.1.
Now, I decided to see the ductwork underneath the car and removed the
bottom protectors. Here it was in plane sight! The outgoing duct at intercooler was oily, all other ducts and hoses dry and clean. I removed the
duct, takes only 1 min, and now I saw 3 cracks on the duct, longest one was 2" long. Made an emergency repair by epoxy and self vulcanizing rubber tape. No more power loss! Works like a champ.
The duct is kind of semi hard rubber pipe reinforced by steel mesh.
The rubber wall was simply cracked so that the mesh was clearly visible. No wonder turbo boost is low. I will by a new duct at local dealership asap.
So much headache but happy ending. Next time I will check everything three times over according to the WIS before spending any money.

 

Since you own both versions of the diesel W211, which do you prefer? Don't think I've ever heard of a person owning both.

 

The answer is clear: CDI.

I have owned only Mercedes diesels all my life. CDI is my #19 and Bluetec
is #20.
The diesels engines have always improved from earlier model.
Now, first time I feel MB went backwards when they introduced V6. It's is very delicate, over computerized, kind of over engineered engine, which
also consumes more fuel than the last line 6.
Not even mention how mechanic unfriendly it is. As an example, think about to fix a common problem, leaking oil cooler o-ring. It is located at the
inner bottom of the V. I have heard dealers charging $4000 for labor to change a $2 o-ring.
No wonder MB is going back to line 6. We will see first l6 diesels out
probably 2016.
CDI is very smooth, extremely powerful, all at 33...40 Miles/G.
Only problem is that they imported last CDI to this country year 2006.
So newer models are not available here. I really hope the new l6 will
will be the ultimate diesel Mercedes.

 

Thanks for the information on lower duct work. I will let you know what I find.