Schnellfahrer

I have posted earlier that my Check Engine light was on and the car was sluggish and underpowered. Plutoe, on this site, suggested it was sensor B60 and with that info I went to the dealer who kept the car for 9 days (!), incl. Christmas. A seal on the turbo was replaced but the Check Engine light is still on and the car is as sluggish as it was before. Apparently they don't know how to fix it even when, according to them, their "Chief Mechanic" worked on it.
When I floor the accelerator pedal there is no transmission kick-down or turbo boost. A Fiat 500 can fly by me.
A diagnostic Fault Reading was done at my friendly parts store with the following read outs:
Definition: "Code P0111 indicates that the Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 electrical circuit was out of range or had a performance problem for a predetermined period of time". The Error Codes Read:
P0299 Turbo /Super Charger Underboost
P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High Input
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit

I'm sure the MB dealer could get these readings and more but I have no clue why they can't seem to fix it. I needed the car back after all this time and they told me just to bring it back later. I'm not sure if I will.
Is there anyone out there who can shed some light on this? I'd sure greatly appreciate it!

2008 E320 BlueTec 90,500 miles WDBUF22X78B316368

Plutoe

It's not that I don't believe your story, but no MB tech worth his salt would ever start to work on a car without first getting the results for the DAS Xentry quick test that all owners can request a copy so they know what and how the car was diagnosed------post a copy or list the faults that the new car dealer found to be faulty!!

Schnellfahrer

Plutoe, I will request the "DAS Xentry quick test" from the dealer. Since they have not been very forthcoming thus far I doubt they will provide it but I will certainly try. As soon as I have this I will post it.
In the meantime I'm trying to find an independent MB repair shop but the closest is some 100 miles away. A real problem if they need to keep the car overnight.

Thanks for your continued input.

Carsy

Do these turbos have vanes that can stick? ie exhaust pressure high & turbo air low boost.

Plutoe

You would see all that when viewing the Xentry actual values!!

Schnellfahrer

Carsy, I don't know about potential sticking turbo vanes but I will bring that up, as well.
Thanks mate!

Ronin Miller

Dear Sirs, your kind advice is kindly appreciated.

I own a GL350 bluetec 2012 diesel with 150 thousand Km onboard. We have replaced the inter-cooler radiator due to an accident and one intercooler hose connected to the throttle valve.
The faults accuring now are the B60 Internal fault in the Back presure sensor (actual and B28/8 differentila pressure sometimes)

We have replaced the DPF even though the old one had good values, checked the Turbo which seemed to be perfectly working, the turbo module is also working fine. Cleaned the EGR which was also working fine. We are going crasy with this car..

the car idles with low back presure about 650 while specified range is (700-2000) and jumps to 3000 or to 4600 values at boost. The boost reaches up to 3000 rpm and never more.

your kind advice is kindly appreciated

can somebody advice pls

JG26_Irish

Possible causes for no boost:
1.) Clogged DPF - do you drive mostly city? or mostly highway? Lack of exhaust flow would prevent boost and kill performance. This is consistent with high exhaust back pressure.
2.) Stuck waste gate. This would bypass hot section on the turbo and prevent boost. But, should not show high exhaust pressure.
3.) Bad turbo bearing. The friction would slow or stall the turbine causing loss of boost. May or may not cause high ex pressure? They replaced a turbo seal? Where? Was it on the bearing/bushing of the turbo shaft? or on the compressor connections? etc. Why was it replaced? They had to be seeing a symptom to point them in this direction.
4.) Leaking inlet tract downstream of turbo. This will blow all of the boost out under the hood and cause loss of performance. Usually makes noise but may or may not depending on severity. Turbo will still spin up freely but fails to generate manifold pressure. Various connections or seals can allow this, especially if the turbo has been removed and possibly not correctly replaced or not tightened sufficiently and allowed to get loose enough to blow a seal. Easy to fix but some times hard to find.
5.) Other - Does your car have the watercooled intercooler? These can be faulty. I am not familiar enough to know this. Had a supercharged AMG that had this. The coolant pump would fail and even when working would sometimes lack sufficient flow to maintain adequate cooling to inlet tract. Fault would be high inlet air temp and cause limp mode. I am guessing this is NOT your issue. 1, 2 or 4 seem more likely culprits. Ask them if turbo impeller spins freely? If so, check DPF, clean or replace. If not DPF, look for leaking inlet tract seals. Waste gate is pretty reliable and do not fail often but if turbo was out of car can often be incorrectly reconnected. This will not happen when driving and car is working fine and then stops working. It is a symptom of either bad maintenance or incorrect reassembly (IMO).

One clue would be this. Did the problem appear suddenly? or gradually over time. DPF will not clog suddenly but inlet seal or turbo bearing failure can.

Irish

Dozer827

Just got our E320 Bluetec back from mechanic after having the same loss of acceleration issues.
Specifically, good turbo boost and acceleration at start up, then fail! Limp mode low power sadness.
Heartbreaking lack of power, pull over turn off and restart, then BOOM, power restored for one shot!

Dealer solution: Replace Turbo, Intake and Exhaust manifolds, cost estimate $5400.
Second Mechanic tried a few things, had trouble interpreting codes, gave similar diagnosis, cost estimate $4500.
Third mechanic (Hail Mary suggestion before dumping car) saw conflicting codes and started taking intake/turbo system apart to inspect.
Found high pressure (post turbo) hose split on underside.
Split pops open, lose boost, car goes limp.
New hose:$139, labor $125.

Result?
Power restored, mileage improved, E320 back!
Lovin' It!

kajtek1

Yuppp,,, had the same when I picked up my dealer-serviced 320 Bluetec.
the <<< 7 sec rated car was taking 10 seconds. Bought it from Ford dealer, so no help there, but the price was right.
At home I found cracked intercooler hose. The mechanics did not want to spend 90 seconds to disconnect the hose the right way, so kinked $139 hose instead.
So new hose + new air filters and car shaved 2 seconds from acceleration time.

montgoma

2007 E320 Bluetec..........worn turbo from poor air filter replacements.........car goes into limp mode........no turbo boost. Replaced turbo and associated sensors.......boost and back pressure sensors......still same thing. Run car through a BG "engine cleaning
de-carbonizing" system........some performance restored, but turbo kicks out after a few engagements...........now I think the catalytic converter is still clogged. I have seen videos of them removing the DPF and catalytic converter and cleaning them and re-installing. The only code it is throwing is the out of range exhaust back pressure.

Has anyone had experience with doing/having this done? a replacement catalytic converter is about $950 plus a $200 core charge (remanufactured from Germany).

Dozer827

[QUOTE=montgoma;7565712]2007 E320 Bluetec..........worn turbo from poor air filter replacements.........car goes into limp mode........no turbo boost. Replaced turbo and associated sensors.......boost and back pressure sensors......still same thing. Run car through a BG "engine cleaning
de-carbonizing" system........some performance restored, but turbo kicks out after a few engagements...........now I think the catalytic converter is still clogged. I have seen videos of them removing the DPF and catalytic converter and cleaning them and re-installing. The only code it is throwing is the out of range exhaust back pressure.

Had the exact same issues. Over a few weeks it threw out several confusing codes.
Took it to three mechanics who all gave us different but super expensive "fixes".
Even some of the ones you have tried.
Through a fluke of nature we were sent to an old school mechanic who took it apart piece by piece and found a split in the hose between the air filter and the intake.
Also found a small crack in the plastic cowling at the filter side. None of these were large open splits, but under pressure they lost pressure and sent the turbo a terminate signal.
HE thinks the process of replacing air filters stresses these parts and if they get old and the mechanic is not careful...hey, I'm gettin' older, too.
The cost of replacement was in the low hundreds, so we stress tested the plastic at the other end of that flexible hose and found it was about to crack so we replaced that as well.
Total cost with new filter and oil change under $1000.

Worth looking at.

montgoma

ok.....left out that in replacing the turbo (oil pushing thru the bearings and the vanes DESTROYED), the turbo was destroyed when I bought the car 5 years ago. I felt lucky to get 60K miles out of it after I bought the car. My mechanic also split the cowl, which further damaged the original turbo., I also replaced the "cowling" that connects the two air fillters to the intake which replaced the mass air sensors.........

Micah / AF1 Rac

montgoma

agreed....the reason I replaced the turbo, was because of the visible damage. (oil (lots of it) present on the vane side of turbo and the vane were being ate away by the debris present from the damaged air duct)

montgoma

8 second video of turbo damage

Micah / AF1 Rac

montgoma

I am assuming that by hot side that you mean the exhaust side of the turbo. The damage to this turbo is NOT on the "hot" side of the turbo.........this is the damage on the INTAKE side of the turbo

Micah / AF1 Rac

Micah / AF1 Rac

Anthony Porta

Just curious does anyone know how much boost the OM642's should be making with a good turbo?

Micah / AF1 Rac

Anthony Porta

33 MAP or boost? Mine shows 14.7 MAP at idle which is 0 boost pressure.

montgoma

quick update......pulled the EGR valve, cleaned it. Does not appear to be the problem. Next step is to pull the Catalytic converter and Diesel Particulate Filter (cost to replace $3500 with remanned parts......$1500 of this is core charges). We have decided to try to clean the units with oven cleaner.........should that fail, then we will consider hollowing the units out......

Micah / AF1 Rac