Micah / AF1 Rac

I assume most of you are running EGR? My ford truck had EXACTLY the same problem. Last time I rebuilt it (out of warranty) I killed EGR for good! 140k miles later it’s never happened again. Twice while truck had EGR and warranty. I actually found a Ford TSB on the matter.

MacSixx69

I go at Thursday to swirch off the EGR by computer so I hope it will be fine from way

Arthur Udris

removed an actuator, will do soldering, later is it important to remember position of actuator arm before connect it to a linkage, because was moving actuator gearbox up and down to see how it moves, or it will set automatically/as it is electro actuator by car before start up? if its important in which position it should be? thats pos. up till end or down till the end.?

artim808

It will automatically set the position once you start the engine.

TGcville

Here is a video from Tim's Turbo where he actually tests the actuator movement, sometimes the worm gear also becomes worn out. I just had my spare turbo rebuilt by him, and the actuator had to be replaced as well.

Arthur Udris

The original actuator will calibrate itself, what about those which are bought from ebay and etc? as long they have same part number they will do auto calibr?

artim808

Those from ebay will calibrate itself as well, but be careful because there are lot's of fake ones on ebay. They will work but they will report incorrect values to ECU and consumption can be higher.

Kevingj

I’ve had similar experience, overboost and other codes. It is possible to remove the actuator cover without removing the entire component. As some have already commented, soldering is not straightforward due to the coating. I’ve ‘fixed’ mine twice now but looks like problem has returned. This time I will loosen the boxes to make removal and refit of the Y crossover easier.
if this doesn’t solve the problem replacement actuators are available trade-in for £96 .

Rey Hortillosa

Can you buy the arm swivel of the actuator separate?

marc hanna

Not that I’ve seen.

Rey Hortillosa

Thanks Marc

Mimi Bishop

Hi,
I have a 2008 ML 320 throwing DTC code 2359-02 and 2510-001. My mechanic pulled this off and tested the connectors and didn't see anything wrong with the connection. Is there anything else it could be?

b-rizz

@Mimi Bishop Any luck with sorting this issue out? Curious if you resoldered the board and got this to work as sometimes those wires are hanging on by a thread and once at running temps the resistance may be enough to trigger an issue and throw the car into limp mode with no engine light.

doctorroboto

Hey just chiming in with my experience yesterday. I drive a 2008 R320 (W251), and over the past few months the car went through the motions of gradual failure of related to turbo issues. First it was just doing the limp mode and had loss of acceleration with no CEL, then the occasional CEL as well, which I would reset, but a few weeks ago it just totally shut off while driving, which was a first, and I was barely able to get it home after resetting the faults multiple times with my icarsoft tool. It was an exceptionally hot day when the catastrophic failure occurred, FWIW. Throughout the process the car was throwing ECM codes 2510-1 and 2359-2 in MB-specific code reader mode, and generic OBD-II code P0234. A few weeks ago I had tried to check the contacts inside the existing Garrett actuator, which I was able to open without removing from the vehicle after much cursing, but found no bad traces with a continuity tester, and didn't feel like breaking the existing traces just to resolder them on the off chance that this would extend the life of the unit. So I put that back together, minus a few unwanted lower c-clips I couldn't reach to reinstall, and drove for a while until the vehicle finally died as described above.

I ordered a replacement aftermarket unit off Amazon, I think it was "Benefast" branded, the product link says both G-277 and G-219, but it listed my vehicle in the compatibility, and went about the full swap. Had to remove the turbo heat shield, but also found that I had to reopen the old actuator to manually spin the worm gear in order to get the old arm raised up out of the way of the third bolt on the back of the mounting bracket. It wouldn't budge any other way, and I didn't feel like breaking it, so if anybody else has some tips there for the group, they should post that. I ended up dropping a few c-clips into the engine in opening the old unit, but did manage to retain the e-clip on the actuator arm thankfully, and then got everything off, swapped out, and buttoned up. Worked immediately, can confirm no reprogramming needed, turbo sounds great, no errors being thrown, no further issues after 20 miles driven so far. Hopefully it's not such a poor knockoff that it will break immediately, or ruin my fuel economy, but I have no complaints at the moment.

wannawagon

Just wondering how the Chinese actuator has survived.

doctorroboto

So far it’s still working fine. I’m not 100% convinced I’m getting the same mileage since I can’t confirm if it’s exactly as responsive and I haven’t checked boost pressure or anything, but it does the job. Van is the daily driver except for this stop drive order for the brake booster recall, but getting that addressed this week.

wannawagon

Thanks for that. It’s a pain we can’t get them sep. will probably go down that track

B34chBum

https://www.idparts.com/turbocharger...t-p-13606.html

Backordered currently, but they do carry these.
($310 + shipping)

wannawagon

Wow. Thanks. Way cheaper than a new turbo. Will see if they ship to Australia

wannawagon

Just a note. Got the actuator out and pulled apart. Again the motor has failed. The soldered points are all intact.

it’s weird I have two fail. Different cars. One at 280kkm and this at 150kkm. (Which seems premature).

both have failed with the motor. I wonder if we have a hotter under bonnet temp or something that makes the motor the weakest link.

looks like I can get the motor only for $30 Australian or $20 us. Will give these a go

in this case I have a motor from a wreck that I have pulled the actuator from. So car is mobile now.

B34chBum

Yeah, it's weird how many ways these things can fail.
I've seen worm gear kits as well - I guess the plastic just doesn't hold up to the heat.

It's all about getting the quickest actuation response - the older vacuum diaphragm pots were a much more reliable in my humble opinion.
But, they didn't have the quickness these have.
Really, chasing lower emissions, quicker throttle response.

Mikey13b

Hi mate, where did you get the motors from in Australia? And how did the actuator go with the new motor? Cheers

wannawagon

got the actuator motor on ebay from a Chinese supplier.

I checked I had right polarity on motor before soldering in but had one actuator fail at installation from worm breaking. It never actually worked correctly and when disassembled found worm wrecked (it wasn’t before) and thought it was like the motor was being turned wrong way.

other one worked fine

don’t know what I would do next time

Lou-in-NJ

I just replaced my actuator for the first time...164k miles. I bought a URO Parts replacement for $149. I'm going to take my original apart since it seems like the pinion gear wore out. I think it's ridiculous that those gears aren't made out of brass., but parts are cheap enough from China suppliers to experiment:
Pinion gear with position indicator:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832776032949.html?
Motor with pinion and worm gears:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802718961336.html?
Worm gear only:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802718906388.html?
Lots of options on Ailexpress.com...who knows what the quality is like, but since it only takes 10 minutes to replace the actuator on the OM642, I figure I'll fix the original part and have a spare.