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Rebuilding OM642 3.0L air pump.

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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 07:04 PM
  #1  
Anthony Porta's Avatar
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Ml350
Rebuilding OM642 3.0L air pump.

So I noticed as im inspecting my intake after an air filter cleaning that there is oil on an electrical line and I can see a bunch of crud by the throttle body.

you can see the shine on the line. I removed the air damper from the intake. (4 bolts), stuffed a towel in the opening, and removed the T25 torx bolts that cover the pump.



Leaking old seal on the right, (Orange) new seal (Brown) on the left. 165,000mi at time of discovery.

Make sure to clean that groove out as best as you can. I used a screw driver and a towel with carb cleaner to remove most of the gunk. Then for the cover below I used a razor blade. (Photo shows 1/2 clean 1/2 original).


So there you have it. A $30 part to fix a leak instead of a $250 rebuilt pump or who knows what new.
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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 11:21 PM
  #2  
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You got me curious, but it turn out to be vacuum pump.
Good tips
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 02:01 PM
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GL350
I have a 2011 GL350 that is leaking not from the front of the vacuum pump but rather by the black seal that goes against the head. I installed a new one, torqued to 9nm but it leaked immediately. Pulled it off and cleaned everything up again, used the permatex copper spray gasket reinstalled, its slower but still getting a drip. I ordered another new gasket and thinking of using high temp RTV on it, is there something i'm missing on the install? Both gaskets are MB not an aftermarket.
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Old Feb 23, 2019 | 01:06 PM
  #4  
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From: McDade, Texas
W211 e320 CDI
I WISH the 648 had a vacuum pump, I could finally kill the SBC brakes for real. Got a notice the other day my brake warranty has been extended to 25byears and unlimited miles....it’s just such a dangerous system, in 223k miles so far I’ve experienced 4 TOTAL failures, MB actually discussed buying my car back last time or trading me up to a preowned but 642 powered car without SBC. I just couldn’t bring myself to do it. My car MIGHT be worth 2k now with current mileage and condition...I wanna see how long it goes before a true failure, even then, I doubt I’d not rebuild the motor or trans.
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Old Feb 23, 2019 | 01:17 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
OT
Over the years I've been trying to remember reported SBC failures and ended in less than 20.
The system has mechanical back-up, but from reports is low efficiency and since it takes 5 or more times the pedal force to slow down, lot of drivers can't tell the difference and report it as total failure.
Only 2 owners reported that they drove some distance on mechanical back up and it was manageable. Don't know how much it might play role, but those 2 were from Europe.
Now you are evidently technical guy and 4 failures beat all the records. So can you elaborate about "total" failures?
I am always under impression that when somebody reports total brake failure, I am chatting with ghost.
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Old Feb 23, 2019 | 01:26 PM
  #6  
Micah / AF1 Rac's Avatar
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From: McDade, Texas
W211 e320 CDI
Three times I ran car off road to avoid hitting another car. Once was just randomly going down back country roads. The REAL issue turned out to be that the first two dealers to do “repair” didn’t despite billing MB, on 4th failure I went to a dealership 150 miles away where I get Sprinters serviced and know the diesel tech. I marked tiny etched on EVERY part but didn’t tell them. They literally replaced Everything SBC related except pressure vessel which has never had an issue. When SBC fails you might have 5% braking power at FULL pedal pressure. I’ve learned to muscle memory hit emergency brake...
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 03:31 PM
  #7  
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W211 320
Hi Guys , what value on torque wrench I have to use for cover screw to install new seal -oring
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Old Sep 25, 2021 | 01:28 AM
  #8  
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2012 GL350, 2014 GLK250
Originally Posted by bluegl350
I have a 2011 GL350 that is leaking not from the front of the vacuum pump but rather by the black seal that goes against the head. I installed a new one, torqued to 9nm but it leaked immediately. Pulled it off and cleaned everything up again, used the permatex copper spray gasket reinstalled, its slower but still getting a drip. I ordered another new gasket and thinking of using high temp RTV on it, is there something i'm missing on the install? Both gaskets are MB not an aftermarket.
Did you try RTV? I'm I. Same boat as you. Replaced the gasket and it still leaks. I notice the valve cover is not exactly flush with the head so I was think of putting some of that valve cover sealant on the gasket next time.
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