Scanners for DPF regerneration
 

We keep talking about the scanners in different topics, but I think the subject deserves its own topic.
Having big issue with DPF in my W212 E250 Bluetec, where 3 months wait for new/reg DPF from Germany is not going anywhere, I took my time to test some scanners in the mean time.
I do have MaxiEcu- laptop based scanner, who does lot of adaptation, but the ECU for 250BT is not included yet, although the developer keeps on promising the software.
I tried Schwaben for MB and it did not support my model.
Than I bought iCarsoft MBII. That scanner does not read my ECU, but has generic DPF regeneration that seem to work on my car. It is work of madman as it calls for keeping 2-3,000 rpm while not exceeding 50 kph and it is not giving you progress report, so you have to keep refreshing it manually, but it did drop dot contest in my DPF.
But the CEL for to "DPF differential pressure" keeps coming back, when I could not monitor it.
So I bought lately Autel MD808 .
This scanner doesn't read my ECU (what else is new) and its DPF service has no regeneration, but playing with it I found differential pressure reading.. . under "Limitation of engine torque".
I never had good opinion about automotive system programmers, but those logics sure make you scratching your head.
Than from all 4 scanners I tried, only Schwaben had smoothest test aka simulated compression test.
Final conclusion - each scanner has useful function, but you need 4 of them to have the really useful stuff. If you want ECU support, seems it will show up on those scanners in about 6-7 years. (Autotell support Ford as of 2014, what is only 5 years)
I am getting more support on my 2008 E320 BT, but this engine works well, so I have no motivation to spend lot of time on it.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...5e450b984b.jpg

I plan to spend more time with Autel in next couple of days, so will keep update.

We also talk about ScanGauge, who is monitoring-only scanner, but is giving regeneration status and ash % for my Ford Truck.
I contact the manufacturer about making program for MB and they are sending me data logger for my MB cars, so they can make programs supporting the brand.
So there is more light at the end of the tunnel.

Thanks for your effort, I will be subscribed to this thread since I am in the market for a scanner.

Today I took some time to do another regeneration on OM651 engine. Sorry for picture size, but I don't know if I can control it.
Autel was showing 120 hPa = 1.7 psi DPF differential pressure at flooring it from the start and I was getting CEL with the code.
Switched to iCarsoft that has program for DPF regeneration.
The program wants you to keep rpm between 2-3,000 rpm and not exceed 50 kph.
That makes for crazy driving as you have to keep it on 2nd with wheel paddles , below 30 mph with the car every 10 seconds automatically switching to auto, so I had to observe the cluster for gear display and each time it switched to "D3" I had to hit the paddle to "M3" and then to "M2". To top it, iCarsoft is not updating the display, so every minute I had to hit "OK" on the scanner and scroll to see updated values.
Don't blame me for not taking picture in that procedure, but here is picture of before. As you can see
"soot content" at 13
Fill level of diesel particules" at 185 [0.... 350 allowable]
keep your eyes on line saying "Operating conditions of c.../Normal operation" that was before I scrolled back and press F2 for regeneration. During the regeneration the right side of the line will display the regeneration in progress.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...4f127dc9dc.jpg

here is the screen after. The dpf values went to 0.
As I said, the scanner doesn't refresh the values and it shows speed and rpm when I already stop for taking the picture.
Disregard the line saying "Regeneration was compl" It doesn't seem to do anything, while it was misleading at the beginning.
Press OK at the bottom the page.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...6761755c9d.jpg


next screen warns about switching the engine off before cool down period, so press OK
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...d36dfc30ce.jpg
when you can see exhaust temperature drop below 400 - you can press OK and switch the engine off. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...618c53b475.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...28325fb3e6.jpg
After regeneration I hook up Autel again and check differential pressure.
3 tries went from 78 to 101 hPa (120 in single try before).
Will see how it goes with more driving. We don't drive car every day, so it will take some time to confirm the DPF is clean.

Has anyone located the PIDS for the ash content and other dpf status for apps like torque or obd fusion?

Well..... iCarsoft lies to me
I did 2 more tests to confirm the issue, but even the regeneration process shows the values going down to 0, they don't go. After resetting the scanner it will read the same 13/180 values.
I had my DPF send to DPF shop and they found it damaged beside cleaning abilities, so even I did hope for miracle, I did not really expect it.
But why Chinese programmers make program that lies in your eyes?

Good idea.

When I look at the live data, I don't really know what the standard range should be on any of the values.

Also, my Maxicheck Pro requires me to drive (not idle or rev engine in park) and to have operating temps up to a certain level before force regen occurs.

thanks kajtek for taking the time to document your experience with MBII. I bought a MBII to reset the dpf code on my 2010 GL350 and hoped that with an update to the MBII, it might work, but no such luck. The DPF reset function just ends up in a loop of asking me to confirm pass car or van, then confirm my VIN is correct, then again pass car or van loop to no where. I’ll contact iCarsoft to see what they say about this.

Just wished I’d bought this new so the return would be simple, but I got an ok deal on a used one from eBay so I guess I can keep it for all the other functions

I use Autel MD802 “Full System” and regen can be seen under live data, then temperature before and after DPF... When it heats up to
around 600degC its under regen.. Normal running is around 300deg C..

My idle is also raised during this time,
but idle is also raised if AC is on, battery voltage is low, and during regeneration.. So you need to know the difference..

Ive noticed in winter that if I start the car with Hvac fan on, my idle is raised from 600 to 800.. if I turn off fan right at startup, the idle
is low..

Id be interested in buying a small display, but aim not sure if they will read the temp... I dont want to plug in a scanner each time...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...1c372d077.jpeg

Since I started the topic, ScanGauge developed Xgauges for OM651 engine, who I tested to work well and they've been working on Xgauges for OM642 engine, so worth checking as well.
They also made gauge for my Ford diesel and when soot level works, the regeneration status gauge does not. I contacted them months ago and after sending me 2nd version- they still can't make it working.
Meaning whenever new gauge shows on the market, be very skeptic what it shows.

do you have a part number for these gauges?

Looks like they have manufacturer specific x-gauges and the models in the link below are all they are covering presently:

https://www.scangauge.com/mercedes/

Star will show the mileage at the last regen, miles driven since regen, ash content, and DPF load. But its completely impractical to have hooked up all the time. For casual viewing, I have torque pro hooked up and monitor downstream exhaust temps. If the temps are around 600F, its not regenning. If they are 1000+, its regenning. Thats about the best way to casually view in real time.

That's a great idea. I wonder if this will work in my case where in a winter, most of my trips are 5 min long and it's cold

To make it clear - ScanGauge is design to be plugin permanently to your vehicle. It will shut itself off when you turn the engine off. Actually can be annoying when the display goes off on ECO stops.
Not cheap gauge, but not much is cheap on those cars anymore and IMHO if $150 gauge can save you from $4000 DPF replacement, you should not hesitate to get it.
It has lot of other functions as well that you can find useful.

what are ECO stops?

I think it started in 2014 models in US, where the cars have smart charging and shut down the engine at red lights and other traffic stops. That's what we call ECO stop for the light that comes on the cluster. They also have HOLD feature that will keep the brake on till you hit gas pedal.

Wondering if anybody has experience using Scangauge II for DPF regen on/off status and DPF % full on GL or ML 350 BlueTEC? Their website lists X-codes for the Sprinter but not for GL/ML even though I think its the same engine. I Scangauge and they said you should be able to get that info using the codes, if not we will give you new codes. Before I spend the money to get it I wanted to check here to see if anybody else here is using it to reliably get regen status. I have a 2014 GL350.

I am using SG for DPF regeneration status on several vehicles and it seldom worked right.
On my Ford it did never show regeneration pending, when I did see soot level going down from time to time, what indicate regeneration,
On my Sprinter SG shows regeneration pending 90% of the time, when soot level indicate regeneration happening every +- 500 miles.
On E250 it did show probably the best. When the soot went to 100% the regeneration would come on and after few miles it would complete. But then it did show regeneration when I was "flooring it" entering the freeway. No clue if that is correct.

Hi Hdmav. I have the ScanGuageII on by 2012 R350 Bluetec and works great. You can also daisy another unit if you want to have more than 4 data up at once. Use the X-codes for the 2011+ Sprinter 3.0 Diesel https://www.scangauge.com/x-gauge-co...w-3-0l-diesel/

On/Off Regen, DPF temp (Exhaust Temp Upstream), DPF Load, Engine temp is what I have on my display.

You wont regret purchase but its a little expensive.

I ordered it today. Will play around with it for some time and update what I find here.

ClubJensen. Your post is very helpful. I have had a ScanGuage on my Beetle TDI for many years. Company support has been very good—I recently sent my ScanGuage in for latest firmware update that is required for some of the gauges you mention to work—cost $20.

I did not know you could daisy chain an additional Scanguage for 4 more realtime gauges. I assume you just connect with a short network cable!

For GL owners, where are you routing the wire and mounting the Scangauge? It was easy on the Beetle—it replaces the daisey holder.

Mike

I have had good luck reading codes and live data using the Launch 431V pro scanner. There are two different ones being sold, the ones sold on Amazon are meant for the non USA market, and Launch USA will not support the product. The only thing I cannot seem to be able to do is to do any sort of module programming.

Go on SG X-gauges pages and find what they offer. Not all OM642 engines have gauges available.
To program X-gauge you have to enter very long numbers 4 times. Pretty annoying, but it works at the end... if you don't punch wrong number.

Hi Guys, just wanted to give you an update on Scangauge X-Gauge. Sorry for the long post.

I’ve been using the gauge for couple of days and did 1 highway trip of about 50KM and one inner city trip with lots of slow speed and stop and go.

I have the gauge set to monitor, Regen On/Off status, DPF full %, Temp upstream of DPF and Temp upstream of SCR.

When I started the highway trip, the gauge showed DPF 77% full. At hwy speeds both temps ranged between 600-1000 C. the DPF full % actually went down. The DPF % went as low as 25% and then steadily climbed up again once I was off highway and 60-70 KMPH speed. temp stayed under 650 C or so.

When I started my inner city trip, the gauge showed DPF was about 65% full. It filled up to about 107% when the regen started. The gauge status changed to regen ON and exhaust temp climbed up to almost 1100 C before falling down. The status however stayed ON. Since I was in stop and go inner city road I could not pick up or maintain speed. The temp dropped down as the speed slowed or when I was stopped on red light. At stop lights I pressed the brake and revved up the engine to raise the temp which I think helped with the burning. It took a while for the DPF to go down to 0%. The last 6% I just stopped in the parking lot and revved up the engine while keeping the brakes pressed. I did not put the vehicle in the park. Once the gauge showed DPF 0%, the regen status changed to OFF and I could feel a slight change in engine, like when the fan goes on or off click.
It’s only been a couple of days of using the gauge and 2 decently long test runs but I think the gauge works well to provide regen status. But as others have mentioned the exhaust temp reading are also helpful to know what’s going on. At high speeds and high temp the soot probably burns off under normal running conditions and regen doesn’t happen that often but in city stop and go conditions where the exhaust doesn’t get that hot the regen probably occurs often and this gauge can be of help so the cycle isn’t interrupted. It’s not a cheap gauge but if these 2 tests are any indication, I think it’s money well spent.

hdmax,
Where on the GL350 did you mount the Scangauge and route the cable?
Mike

I had a old phone holder that I modified for the gauge. I have it placed on the vent left of the steering wheel. As the cable connects on the right or behind I had to make a U and route the cable just underneath the vent and along the door supported by a double sided tape. I only had white coloured tape so I used that but I think I will eventually change it to black or transparent sticky tape to make it look better.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e92e7553b.jpeg

Hdmax,

Sorry to keep asking questions. The Scangauge website provides X-gauge tables for several Mercedes models with diesel engines but does not provide an X-gauge table specific to the GL350. The closest for applicability to the GL350 appears to be the table for “2011+ Mercedes Sprinter 3.0L Diesel.” Is that the table you referenced for codes to program the X-gauges you mentioned in your post #26?

Also, the table for the “2011+ Mercedes Sprinter 3.0L Diesel” provides the coding for three exhaust gas temperatures: upstream of turbocharger, upstream of DPF, and upstream of DOC. There are no codes for temperature upstream of SCR in this table but upstream of the SCR is provided in the table for the “2014 - 2016 Mercedes E250 BlueTEC.” Perhaps this is the table most applicable to the GL350?

Mike

I already check with ScanGauge for DEF level X gauge for OM642 engine and they say the engine ECU is not providing the data to OBD, so can't do,
That was for my Sprinter, but likely applies to the engine in different models as well.

I wanted to share my experience using Scangauge to monitor DPF regeneration cycles on my 2015 GL350. I connected the Scangauge in April 2021 and have since driven 3,700 mostly highway miles and monitored 7 regeneration cycles. The Sgangauge website regrettably does not provide x-gauge instructions specifically applicable for my GL350—I used trial and error using x-gauge instructions provided for various other Mercedes diesel models on their website. With Scangauge, I now have the ability to predict when a regen cycle will occur as the soot load % can be monitored in real-time while driving.

Would you mind to share experience with fellow members?
From SG replies - the MB engines not always supply the data that gauges can read.
OM642 TCU will not show DEF level on Sprinters. Is it showing on your car?
For DPF regeneration you can use at least 3 gauges. When the REG gauge doesn't work well on my Sprinter, I see soot level dropping down from time to time, what tells me regeneration is pending.
Other owners observe exhaust temperatures to indicate pending regeneration.

kajtek1, to answer your questions and for the benefit of others, I will address all of the Scangauge X-gauges I’ve been able to monitor related to DPF regenerations. As I previously mentioned, there is no information specifically for the GL350 on the Scangauge website. I sourced the coding from other vehicles. Many of the X-gauge coding attempts provided no data. Here are the items that worked for my 2015 GL350 with the X-gauge coding. The below provides the original website description and 3-letter label; for label deconfliction and/or consistency, I have used different 3-letter labels in some cases (also provided).

Regeneration Status:
- Regen Status (On/Off) 07E02220A5 C32320000000 2808 000100010000 RGN
- Regen Status (On/Off) 07DF018B 0541268B0000 3F01 000100010000 RGN (I use RGR)
(note: This item is not Regen Status; it is actually ready status, i.e. the engine and exhaust system is warmed up)

Soot Load:
-Diesel Particulate Filter Load (%) 07E0222087 C56206203787 4808 0064001F0000 PFL
-DPF Soot Load (%) 07DF018B 0541068B0000 4008 006400FF0000 STL

Temperatures:
-Exhaust Temp Upstream of DPF(°F) 07E02220C4 C562062037C4 4808 002E0001FE34 DPF (I use EUD)
-EGT Upstream of DOC(°F) 07E02220D7 C562062037D7 3810 00090032FE34 DOC
-EGT Upstream of Turbocharger (°F) 07E0222083 C56206203783 4808 002E0001FE34 TUT (I use EUT)

Regarding soot load, the two parameters behave differently. Both starting from 0% soot load, they appear to consistently and in agreement increase over time and miles to about 50-60 percent. STL will continue to increase over continuing time and miles. PFL will then begin lagging behind and may even fall back 10-15%. By the time STL reaches 100%, PFL has usually been about 65%. Within 1 mile of STL reaching 100%, PFL strangely jumps to 109%, and temperatures begin rising from about 700+-50 to almost 1200F. The regeneration has begun, STL remains 100% during the entire regeneration but PFL begins to decrease in 3-6% increments over the next approximately 10 miles until PFL reaches 0%. At that time, STL changes from 100% to 0% and the temperatures begins returning to the 700F range. This exact scenario has occurred for 6 of 7 regen cycles that consisted of mostly highway driving, 65-70MPH, 80-85F ambient, mostly level or relatively gentle hills.

After 4 of these cycles, I decided I only needed to keep STL and a couple of temperatures monitored and I could glance at other things with the 4th Scangauge slot. Don’t know if there is a relationship, but this was the only cycle that included mostly mountainous driving in North Carolina and Tennessee. Approaching our destination on steep inclines with switchbacks, I happen to notice temperatures climbing. STL was 75%. I asked my wife change the 4th slot back to PFL. I don’t know what value PFL had increased to as it was already decreasing. Similar to above where STL remains constant during regen, STL remained at 75% until PTL reached 0%, then STL switched to 0% and temperatures began returning to normal. This regen cycle, #5 of 7, is out of character with all the others. But I have returned to keeping both STL and PFL and 2 temperatures as my 4 gauges on Scangauge.

Thanks for that great info Mike.
 

Sure appreciate your time and effort to inform us about ScanGuage and our diesels. Great stuff!

One beef I have about ScanGuage is that they are monitoring several items that are already monitored in our clusters like current drive gear and fuel level, for example. That’s of limited use to me. I’d much rather have data like ATF fluid/transmission temp for tranny servicing, among other things. Seems like they’re picking the low hanging fruit in some of these instances instead of adding more actual value to their product by giving us info we can’t readily access elsewhere. Those sensors exist, as we all know from XENTRY.

Although it’s easy to nitpick, ScanGuage is a good tool and worth its price IMO.

Recently I’ve been looking to reduce/consolidate my OBD2 tools with an Apple smart phone enabled scanner. With this I’d like to scan and clear codes as well as monitor live data while just glancing at my phone rather than installing clunky aftermarket gauges and wires. Unfortunately TorquePro is for Android only. Has anyone got any recommendations along these lines? Thanks in advance if so!

The Scangauge II has 17 built-in gauges (may be less for older firmware versions). I agree—several of these are useless to diesel vehicles (i.e., ignition timing, etc); would be nice but doesn’t work on my 2015 GL350 (I get no data/blank field for MAP, manifold absolute boost pressure); is redundant to information already displayed; and, for at least one of the 17, the data is obviously wrong. It would indeed be nice if you could delete these unused or erroneous built-in gauges, but I don’t think that is possible. Hence, if you want to change what is displayed among the items that are available and desired, you may have to cycle through all 17 gauges plus any x-gauges you have added to get to the gauge you want.

I also agree that a transmission temperature gauge is highly desirable. So far, I have not found the x-gauge coding for transmission temperature that works for my GL350. The Scangauge website does provide the x-gauge coding for transmission temperate for several other Mercedes vehicles.

I think Scangauge II is an excellent product. I do wish there was more vehicle specific support for x-gauge coding. Every x-gauge I have gotten to work has been through trial and error using coding from other Mercedes vehicles. It is anomalous to me that there is no standardization of among the Mercedes line of vehicles, much less from make to make. I’m surprised that as many of the built-in gauges work as do.

FYI, I have found other x-gauges that appear to work on my GL350—DPF Delta Pressure, Exhaust Back Pressure, and Boost Pressure (replaces the built-in MAP gauge that doesn’t work on my vehicle). Let me know if you would like me to post.

Regarding TorquePro, I actually bought it and the recommended OBDII dongle and tried on my GL350 before purchasing the Scangauge. There is very little support for Mercedes. I had little success in getting any of the gauges I wanted. I haven’t given up on Torque because of it’s data logging and plotting capability, but it has to capture the data you are interested in.

Big advantage of Scan Gauge is that you can plug it in and forget it.
It will not draw power with ignition on and will restart automatically.
But it is expensive and only 4 display, who are hard to program and hard to scroll.
The $49 Autel dongle gives me dozen parameters on single page and with clear explanation, so I don't have to wonder, but then it require restarting with the engine.

What model Autel is that? and is DPF regen 1 of the dozen parameters it provides?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Autel-HT2...Tool/964022238

I did not check it for DPF manual regeneration as with regural engine monitoring you will never need it.
What makes headlines on Sprinter forum is keeping DEF lever above 50%.
Suppose low level in cold temperatures will exposure DEF heater, who will burn as the result and the heater on Sprinters is integrated part of $2700 reservoir.
Talking about overengineering again.

iOS app for GLK OBD2 to monitor DPF?
 

Sorry for (somewhat) hijacking the topic, but I've been looking for a good OBD2 app for my GLK 320D and I can't find much out there. I am also in need of keeping an eye on the DPF as it gave me the engine light a few times, even put the car in limp mode twice, but just driving at high RPMs for 10-15 minutes cleared the DPF warning and the car returned back to normal each time.

Most device and app descriptions are generic - you have to buy the device and/or app just to find out when testing that it only provides generic OBD2 info, nothing of the kind of specific stuff you are looking for. I bought an Autel before, but had to return it because they didn't have the specific engine module (and other modules) for my car, so it couldn't do much more than a generic Chinese $20 OBD reader. Then I tried a Mercedes specific iCarsoft hardware device, and that gave me a lot more info... but that also didn't have my specific engine module... they "apologized for the inconvenience" and I returned that one as well. That led me to the OBDLink MX+, which apparently can read pretty much anything, but their own app (OBD Fusion) is very limited for my purposes as it doesn't know the specific codes to query for my car either. I confirmed it with their support that their hardware does have the capability of reading pretty much everything from my car, but they had no idea what app can use that hardware capability.

Any ideas? Does Torque Pro read the DPF status/values and other Mercedes OEM-specific stuff?

The Autel I linked above with Mercedes app works really well.
It will not cover everything, but more than scanners 5 times more expensive would.
Beware that OM642 engine is not scanner-friendly and some X-gauge simply will not be supported.

As in the Autel dongle you mentioned won't work with my 2010 GL350 OM642 or it has limited value/available parameters to report? Was going to order and give it a whack, but if you know, you can save me the hassle. Thanks

I had the Autel MaxiAP AP200 and it didn't support the functions I wanted. It was not able to communicate with the following modules in my car (based on what their app was telling me): Motor Electronics, Electronic Power steering, Shift module, Fuel pump left and right, Exhaust system, Catalytic reduction system, Drive electronics.

I asked Autel about I, an this is the reply I got from them:I don't know if the Autel @kajtek1 referenced above has different capabilities - it may do what the AP200 couldn't, or it may not. It could be software (specific model compatibility), not a hardware issue, in which case it could affect all of their dongles.

I used my HT200 on OM651 engine so far. I also bought Sprinter with OM642 engine lately, but will have to try what the scanner will show me.
HT200 and AP200 suppose to be the same scanners -relabeled for Walmart lower price.
Unfortunately with all scanners there is going to be a dilemma what they will cover.
I already own 2 MB-oriented scanners, but when the HT200 come with new features and lower price, I did not think twice about adding it to my collection.
Single dealer avoidance can pay you for 3 scanners, so this is no brainer for me.

In addition to the Autel one mentioned above (which I would probably already have purchased if it didn't require additional subscriptions to scan other makes) I've also been looking at this scanner: https://www.innova.com/collections/a...fixassist-5512 and its little brother, the model 5510.

On that Innova webpage, scroll down to "coverage checker" and enter your VIN, or essential car details if you don't have that handy, and it will tell you exactly what it does and doesn't do for your make, model and year, unlike 98% of other scanner manufacturer's sites, where it's pretty hit and miss about their device's actual coverage.

Autel makes good stuff, but their website is a hot mess when it comes to scanner coverage of your particular vehicle. Remember, CAPABILITY AND COVERAGE ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. It's not uncommon at all for a scanner to have the CAPABILITY to do everything you want, but on OTHER vehicles, rather than on YOUR particular vehicle make or model or year. That's COVERAGE. Super frustrating! Innova seems to get that and has done something about it via their website.

Finally, notice that the higher end Innova scanners are Bluetooth compatible with your smartphone via a free app. This allows your phone to be used under the hood or under the car while your scanner remains plugged in in the cabin (short scanner cords are a common scanner issue) and also allows your phone to be used similar to a Scan Gauge in the cabin. So, Scan Gauge-like capability, plus a high capability MULTI-MAKE scanner with no subscriptions and free firmware updates, all in one. Nice huh?!
PS- It also allows you to get an ASE-certified mechanic's advice thru the smartphone app if you're stumped or need to order parts, or both. That's an extra service and has a separate fee, but it's still a fraction of the typical $100-120/hr ASE rate you'll be charged at the shop for diagnostics/troubleshooting.

This is start/stop technology that some newer MB models have. It's a mode that's selectable in the cabin, but is the default mode at start-up, unfortunately. When you are stopped at a light or in traffic the car turns off to save fuel. When you lift your foot off the brake the engine restarts spontaneously and you're driving. It's pretty seamless but, personally, I don't like it.

It requires a second small auxiliary battery in the trunk that has to be replaced, just like the one under the hood, every 3-5 years or so. The pittance you save in gas is dwarfed by the expense of that aux battery and the complexities that the start/stop hardware and software introduce into your car. There is, for example, an additional piece to remove and re-install under the car when accessing your torque converter as part of the transmission service.

ECO mode was created to allow the car to EPA test at a higher MPG in city driving, however, it actually increases your cost of ownership. But, because it makes the car more attractive to potential buyers, who have no idea how it works and its cost-to-benefit ratio until they have purchased the car, MB has developed it. This is pretty much a German engineering thing, or rather over-engineering thing. There are many examples of this phenomenon in MB (not to mention VW, Audi and BMW) cars and SUVs, not the least of which are the emissions defeat devices that have now cost them billions and a huge PR black eye. Basically, they solve a potential buyer marketing problem with complex engineering, only to create a worse problem for the buyer once they are owners.

The shortened battery live is probably more thanks to "smart charging" who keeps battery at low charge in normal cruising, to give it high charging voltage during braking.
Don't think we can easy calculate how much fuel those ideas can save versus added $10-20 a year cost of frequent battery change.
But where I live, we have 5 miles drive from the freeway with lot of red lights who can last 2 minutes. I got so used to ECO stops (and HOLD) not only saving the fuel, but also making car quiet on those stops, so now when ECO will not stop the engine, I am getting irritated by vibration and my mpg meter dropping down from 35 mpg.

That’s certainly a lot of stop in stop and go situations
 

It’s embarrassing for me to admit this, but I once left my E250 parked at idle in the driveway to run into the house for an item. I was then distracted by a family member’s small crisis and promptly forgot all about the car running outside.

SIX HOURS LATER I went back outside for something else and found the car still at idle. It had consumed about an 1/8 of a tank of gas in that time. Doing the math for my 21.5 gal tank, that’s abut 2.6 gals of gas. At a round figure of $3/gallon fuel cost, this little senior moment cost me about $8.

Soooo, if you’re going to sit stopped in traffic or at red lights for about 15 HOURS EVERY YEAR! then it becomes feasible to run in ECO mode, given the ~$20/year auxiliary battery amortization cost.

Good luck with that! Lol

P.S.- The above amortization figure is based on a non-OEM aux battery. If you use an OEM battery, it’s closer to $30/yr amortization and thus a whopping 22.5 hours stopped in traffic each year to realize any ECO mode cost savings benefit. That’s ridiculous. NOBODY (outside of London or NYC cabbies perhaps) sits stopped in traffic that much. ECO mode is a total bust.

I know the 2.1 diesels just sip the fuel at idle and that is why converting Sprinter, I use the engine as generator. Frankly when I can't find reliable data how much fuel it really takes (scanner show bogus data) I still believe the OM651 engine takes less fuel than average gas generator would for the same load.
But talking about ECO stops, it is more than fuel saving.
Talking about lowering global warming, beside quiet time you are getting while waiting at red light.