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Decided to replace the oil separator on our 2015 GL350 as a preventative measure. 90k miles. I've seen the threads where folks replace it due to high oil loss and the seal where it seals around the cam loses its pliability and becomes visibly worn. Took me about 2 hours start to finish, not a bad job, but it is tight working back behind there. One thing I was very surprised to find was that the old separator had no seal whatsoever! It has not been replaced before, the date code on it says July 2014, so it's the original. Here it is as removed from the engine:
And the new part for comparison:
I thought maybe the seal got left behind in the engine, so I looked really well with a mirror and couldn't see anything stuck inside, no old seal, no old broken seal pieces, no nothing.
I recently had the timing chain replaced at the dealer. I think the right side cams get removed for that job? Perhaps the old seal fell out during the chain replacement and the dealer tech didn't notice or didn't care? I'm just speculating here. I can't think of any other explanation for why an original never-replaced part would have no seal at all.
At least now I know why there is always so much oil in the Y pipe at the turbo inlet. Hopefully this is solved for good now.
thanks for sharing. this replacement is on my to do list as preventative also, but with what little tools i had i couldnt fit back there at all. i tried on my 2014 ml350 bluetec, so maybe the clearances might be different also.
mind sharing what tools (specifically) you used to complete the job?
thanks for sharing. this replacement is on my to do list as preventative also, but with what little tools i had i couldnt fit back there at all. i tried on my 2014 ml350 bluetec, so maybe the clearances might be different also.
mind sharing what tools (specifically) you used to complete the job?
Metric sockets: 8mm and 10mm
E-Torx sockets: E10 and a larger size (E14?) for the support brace
3/8 ratchet with some different length extensions
All standard stuff that anyone attempting some DIY should already own. Get everything out of the way to give the most access: Remove right side insulation panel at the firewall, remove cabin filter housing cover, remove right strut brace, remove bracket at rear of valve cover that holds several wiring connectors, remove Y pipe, remove right side air filter.
The only tricky spot was the two E10 bolts that hold the PCV on. There's very little room between the back of the engine and the firewall heat shield. I had a low profile 3/8" stubby ratchet that just barely fit. A better option would be a 1/4" drive stubby flex ratchet and 1/4" drive low profile E10 socket. Snap-on TKF72 ratchet and Hazet 850-E10 socket would be excellent choices here.
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Hopefully this is solved for good now.
