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Old Oct 18, 2023 | 02:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Quint22
Well my truck is 650-750w,
He's looking at an oil pan heater, not a block heater. Apples to oranges.

Last edited by John CC; Oct 18, 2023 at 02:55 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2023 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by John CC
He's looking at an oil pan heater, not a block heater. Apples to oranges.
Yeah and he was also asking about wattage which if you had quoted the entire line gave him what the MBs have stock, I also recommended him a good reviewed stick on heater which is better than the one he had listed (albiet more expensive).

Did you answer his question or recommend a pan heater? I may have missed it.
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Old Oct 19, 2023 | 09:39 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Quint22
Yeah and he was also asking about wattage which if you had quoted the entire line gave him what the MBs have stock, I also recommended him a good reviewed stick on heater which is better than the one he had listed (albiet more expensive).

Did you answer his question or recommend a pan heater? I may have missed it.
The recommendation of wattage I saw was for a block heater on a truck. Probably 6L displacement or larger with quite a bit more oil I assume. The stick on heater I linked was just an example of a stick on, because I don't know what wattage will be safe for 9 qts of oil at -20F sustained overnight temps. I am guessing at 250 watts. My engine block has been confirmed to not have the threading for the block heater. My mechanic recommends not using at water jacket style because the heat will get sucked out the radiator.

Can anyone reccomend a wattage for a stick on style oil pan heater?
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Old Oct 19, 2023 | 10:07 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MudFoots
My mechanic recommends not using at water jacket style because the heat will get sucked out the radiator.
Water won't flow into the radiator unless the thermostat opens, and if that happens you probably have to much wattage...
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Old Oct 19, 2023 | 10:19 AM
  #30  
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Mechanic trying to be expert in thermodynamics is not building my confidence.
The pan heater will loose close to 50% of the heat for warming up the air below, so heating element inside coolant is the best, especially that German engineers made the fitting directly on engine block.
Warm coolant will be slowly moving up the block.
Efficiency aside, I don't think warming oil pan, or engine block matters much for the engine start.
We are talking warming up 10-20C up, what in engine work is nothing.
Either way, the engine block will be warmer for starting.

Last edited by kajtek1; Oct 19, 2023 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2023 | 10:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by kajtek1
Either way, the engine block will be warmer for starting.
I do NOT have an engine block heater, nor the bung to add one.

Originally Posted by John CC
Water won't flow into the radiator unless the thermostat opens, and if that happens you probably have to much wattage...
adding a coolant heater outside of the block is on the radiator side of the thermostat. Therefore heating the radiator before the t-stat will open.

I just want to heat my oil without burning it!
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Old Oct 19, 2023 | 06:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MudFoots
adding a coolant heater outside of the block is on the radiator side of the thermostat. Therefore heating the radiator before the t-stat will open.
Depends on which hose you put it in. In the return hose heat will travel up the hose into the engine, not down the hose into the radiator.
I just want to heat my oil without burning it!
Unless you get one of those dip stick heaters there's no chance of that. How hot are you thinking it's going to get?
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Old Oct 20, 2023 | 10:15 AM
  #33  
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I read a reply from firefighter about engine heaters.
Fire trucks are plugged in 24/7 as they need to take off with high speeds when starting and even the trucks have oil change done more often than in normal use, there are no signs of constant heating lowering oil quality.
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Old Oct 20, 2023 | 10:17 AM
  #34  
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Excellent!
Thank you. I am gonna get the highest wattage I can find. Looking like 250.
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Old Oct 20, 2023 | 10:30 PM
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Fire engines have the normal block heaters installed from factory....FYI

The manuals I have read for installed block heaters say to plug it in 2 hrs give or take before driving. This is why most people that I know have a timer plug so you set it for 2hrs before you leave for work or whatever. Saves money also since theres no point in running the heater all night.
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Old Oct 21, 2023 | 09:06 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Quint22
Did you answer his question or recommend a pan heater?
I recommended against a pan heater. I also think somewhere I said that if he's set on getting one the 250 watt version is appropriate. Without a block heater it's not going to be much help, though. Don't forget, there's still a slug of -20 degree oil in the filter housing...
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Old Oct 21, 2023 | 09:44 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Quint22
Fire engines have the normal block heaters installed from factory....FYI

The manuals I have read for installed block heaters say to plug it in 2 hrs give or take before driving. This is why most people that I know have a timer plug so you set it for 2hrs before you leave for work or whatever. Saves money also since theres no point in running the heater all night.
Most of the big diesels have heaters installed at factory.
My 7.3l Powerstroke had it next to the oil filter... mounted in coolant.
Time of heating depends on the heater power. Those 200W heaters are design to be plug overnight.
When you have 700W heater, that's the one you want to run 2 hr before engine cranking.
My Sprinter has diesel hydronic booster heater. It require engine running and temp below 40F to run.
Strange logic to me as I can't use it to preheat the engine, but then it warms it up fast when running. That's how German engineers see it.

Last edited by kajtek1; Oct 21, 2023 at 09:47 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2023 | 12:01 PM
  #38  
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Mud, go with the oil pan heater. Years ago, I had an old Suburban with a diesel and that 'ol 6.5 liter DEFINITELY needed help in the colder temps! Without it, that thing would fog the neighborhood and clatter like crazy. I initially had a block heater - and that was fine. But I later installed a pan heater and I like that better (so did pretty much everyone on the 65.L forum I was on). As you know heat rises - so you get not only the benefit of warmer oil fo reasier starts, but the heat will rise and start to warm the block, too. Eventually, I did plumb both the block an dpan heater's cord to one line so I could run both of them at the same time - I figured "why not?".

For reference, I used a Wolverine oil pan heater - they're more expensive, but they seem to be a better company - not a fly-by-night internet only company. It looks like they're now Phillips & Temro... but their US headquarters is in Minnesota... where I believe it gets quite cold!

I don't think there's any chance of burning the oil - there's way too much oil in the pan for that. And the engine is still subjected to the ambient temps. Maybe if you only had 16 ounces in there... but then you've got other problems! Get the biggest pad you can. It will probably be about 250W, though. But you could call them and ask them those questions to be sure.

I had a simple, outdoor timer that I used and would typically set that for about 3 hours before I would be starting the engine.

Last edited by DennisG01; Oct 29, 2023 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2023 | 01:55 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DennisG01
For reference, I used a Wolverine oil pan heater - they're more expensive, but they seem to be a better company - not a fly-by-night internet only company. It looks like they're now Phillips & Temro... but their US headquarters is in Minnesota... where I believe it gets quite cold!

I don't think there's any chance of burning the oil - there's way too much oil in the pan for that. And the engine is still subjected to the ambient temps. Maybe if you only had 16 ounces in there... but then you've got other problems! Get the biggest pad you can. It will probably be about 250W, though
@DennisG01 Thank you! You are correct on all accounts. Wolverine is P&T and also Zerostart. They recommended the 250W for the pan capacity and sell directly through Amazon.
https://a.co/d/iylsL96
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Old Jan 21, 2024 | 08:23 PM
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So I just got Vinnie (like Vinnie Diesel... lol) back from a local diesel shop. Had the 150K service done, including fuel filter and the oil pan heater. So craziest thing.... using the oil pan heater trips the oil temp sensor!!! If I use it too long I get a CEL...friggin annoying. Other than only using it when it is super cold, anyone have any recommendations? I am thinking to only use it when the overnight temp goes below zero and only for 30 minutes or so; which will be starting in about 8 days if the forecast is correct. I do not have my own code reader, so I cannot clear the CEL without driving out to the NAPA and fussing with them.
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Old Jan 21, 2024 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MudFoots
So I just got Vinnie (like Vinnie Diesel... lol) back from a local diesel shop. Had the 150K service done, including fuel filter and the oil pan heater. So craziest thing.... using the oil pan heater trips the oil temp sensor!!! If I use it too long I get a CEL...friggin annoying. Other than only using it when it is super cold, anyone have any recommendations? I am thinking to only use it when the overnight temp goes below zero and only for 30 minutes or so; which will be starting in about 8 days if the forecast is correct. I do not have my own code reader, so I cannot clear the CEL without driving out to the NAPA and fussing with them.
What temperature does the sensor trip a CEL? I would be concerned on how hot the oil was getting at that point assuming the sensor is accurate.
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Old Jan 21, 2024 | 11:02 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Quint22
What temperature does the sensor trip a CEL? I would be concerned on how hot the oil was getting at that point assuming the sensor is accurate.
When I called my mechanic about it, he said the trip was due to temperature differential between the jacket water and the oil temp, not like a high temp trip. Sounds to me like there is a maximum variation allowed, but that seems silly since some engines have a block heater which would heat up the jacket water... or that may be the clue. That the jacket water is programmed to be hotter than the oil, but not the other way around. But I am just guessing at things.
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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MudFoots
When I called my mechanic about it, he said the trip was due to temperature differential between the jacket water and the oil temp, not like a high temp trip. Sounds to me like there is a maximum variation allowed, but that seems silly since some engines have a block heater which would heat up the jacket water... or that may be the clue. That the jacket water is programmed to be hotter than the oil, but not the other way around. But I am just guessing at things.
Interesting, from my limited experience with MB that sounds very reasonable considering German over/under engineering. Hope ya find the answer and if you do please share. I remember my time working at Jeffco airport (long time ago), when we forgot to plug the fuel trucks in they would take a good hour to get fired up and then another hour to warm up before you could turn them off and not worry about it for a while. Old big rig diesels were a different animal.
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