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Hi,
I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the OM642. I have leaking oil cooler seals and am about to tackle to job.
Would anyone have the WSI pages for this repair that they would be willing to share?
Hi,
I can provide the WIS document but only in German
However, this is a standard procedure on the OM642. You will literally find tons of step by step tutorials on youtube just search for "OM642 oil cooler".
If you need part numbers, you can check a part catalogue like this: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine
There are also tons of parts and kits available online, just search in Google for "OM642 oil cooler set" - literally tons of sets and kits available.
Pay attention at the last step, before lifting the oil cooler! Make 100% sure to clean the engine inside the V around the oil cooler before lifting the actual cooler off the engine. When doing it the dirty way, you risk debris falling into the holes of the oil cooler, especially because stuff can be oily and messy when those seals go bad. This is a shortcut to a broken engine
I very much appreciate the guidance. I am actually German myself living in Canada so that would be well.
Thanks for the info on the need to keep everything clean on the last step. This is a huge heads up thanks.
On another note, I understand the job requires some bolts to be changed as they are one time use only. I'm trying to figure out which ones they are. I have all the gaskets just not sure on which bolts are needed to be changed.
The bolts that need to be renewed are the ones on the exhaust side in the red boxes. Although, often the old ones can be re-used I have to admit, when they brake or wear out, then the job is raised to the next level of "fun"
I am not sure if this is relevant for your model, but pay attention to the little cooling pipe (12) in the picture above. There is a little o-ring rubber seal where the pipe sticks into the engine - I would recommend renewing this o ring. If it starts leaking there, because of bad o ring, then there is no way to change this o ring without lifting the whole turbo again.
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I have to admit, when they brake or wear out, then the job is raised to the next level of "fun"
