brake bleed procedure
#2
I just did this, the procedure is standard. Suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and refill with fresh DOT 4 fluid. I use Super DOT 4 by Pentosin. It has a slightly lower viscosity than regular DOT 4. Fill a clean pressure bleeder with 2 liters of fluid and screw the cap onto the fluid reservoir. Pump it to 15 psi and make sure its holding pressure. I then remove the passenger rear wheel and the cap on the bleeder screw. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder and into a container on the ground. I prefer a clear container so I can monitor the fluid color. Open the bleeder about a 1/2 turn and watch for the fluid to slowly drool out. It should come steady but slowly. When the color changes to a lighter color of fresh fluid or you get about two cups in the container, close the bleed screw and replace the cap. Repeat for the drivers rear, the passengers front and the drivers front in that order. Every so often, repump the bleeder to 15 psi to keep the fluid moving. Watch the bleeder to make sure the fluid level stays well above the pickup in the bottom of the bleeder. If you pump any air, you will have to start all over! After the last wheel is done, release the pressure in the bleeder by slightly opening the top and letting the air out. Carefully unscrew the bleeder cap from the reservoir, making sure you don't spill fluid on paint. Some fluid will come out so have rags. Suck out fluid from the reservoir until the fluid level is at the MAX line and replace the cap. I then run the hose over the reservoir area to wash away any spilled fluid. The brakes should work as normal but check them carefully before moving the car.
#4
No Distronic. I don't know if that would change the procedure. I actually doubt it. The only time I know that this procedure may not work is if the brake booster is hydraulic instead of vacuum operated. (very unusual)