2012 e550 lowering Help
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2012 e550 lowering Help
Ok so I waited a week just to ensure any further compression on the springs (Eibach pro). It doesn't pull or anything of the sort though I understand camber can be off correct?. So I took it to the Mercedes dealership in Calabasas and the tech told me there's no guarantees on aligning since the factory specs have been changed and if there is any pull afterwards then it's tires blah blah and I have to sign an agreement releasing them etc. so basically it drives like a dream and if the screw it up I'm out almost $200 with nothing to show for it. Would you risk it? I just wanted to get it aligned to ensure proper tire wear as it drives with zero pull or issues so far. What would any of you do?
edit: I didn't allow them yet as I wanted to research it further and get a collective voice of opinions and experience from this board first.
edit: I didn't allow them yet as I wanted to research it further and get a collective voice of opinions and experience from this board first.
Last edited by JDScott; 03-30-2017 at 06:49 PM.
#2
Senior Member
Try to find a shop near you that specializes in dealing with cars that have modified suspension. Usually places that do corner balancing, etc. have alignment equipment and they are well versed in working on lowered cars. I'm in orange county and have heard good things about evasive motorsport (santa fe springs) and mod auto (la habra). I haven't done alignment at either place, but mod auto installed my springs and were very professional. Planning to take my car back to them for an alignment after a couple hundred miles. Don't have any knowledge of shops closer to you though unfortunately.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks I'm trying to look into that now. Makes me not want to trust the MB dealership after trying to blame tires for off alignments that they perform. Basically them covering their butts if they screw my alignment up and it starts pulling. Really has me wondering how intelligent that facility really is.
#4
Thanks I'm trying to look into that now. Makes me not want to trust the MB dealership after trying to blame tires for off alignments that they perform. Basically them covering their butts if they screw my alignment up and it starts pulling. Really has me wondering how intelligent that facility really is.
#5
SPONSOR
Current models only have basic ‘Toe’ adjustment front (and rear) OEM!
OK if vehicle maintained and driven at showroom height, but day to day commuting with high cambered roads, altering/lowering height, load carrying, suspension sag, fitting wide profile tires or curb knock damage – the feature of having “ongoing Camber adjustment” to change tire “contact angle” is essential. Along with front “Caster” to correctly resolve steering pull and improve brake and steering response.
We saw the need therefore to design, manufacture and provide “precise” adjustment (requiring no modifications) - reinstating from the early ‘90’s front kits that not only provide up to “4 times” the adjustment range of the inaccurate “one” offset position fluted bolts (available for front only and offering a minimal 1/8” / 3mm change). . . . but also the bonus of the K-MAC front and rear adjuster kits replacing the 4 highest wearing suspension bushings at the same time!
The patented design allows “precise/accurate” single wrench adjustment – on car (under load direct on alignment rack). No more ongoing trips to Dealers or alignment shops (where a full front and rear alignment is merely adjusting Toe) or constantly changing tire brands – INSTEAD FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME.
Rear kits also providing Camber for the 1st time (and additional rear Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility). Advantage of the K-MAC rear bush design compared to rear adjustable “Camber Arms” is that to resolve premature inner edge tire wear Camber arms need to move “top of tire” outwards, diminishing all important clearance to outer fender – K-MAC moves bottom arms inwards and easier access allowing to be adjusted accurately (on car under load).
C207, A207
Front Camber and Caster #502616 K $480
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) #502226 K $480
Delivery $40 one kit or $50 front and rear kits. We accept PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
Also manufactured for serious adjustment on “Track Days” (up to 3 “extra” degrees). Also easily adjustable Front Replacement Top Strut Mounts (Camber and Caster) - available in Stage 2 (Street / Race) or Stage 3 (Full Race).
Along with a rear bush kit for the 6 multi link arms – providing noticeably improved rear end control- less flex / twitch, especially when applying power lane changing / overtaking.
OK if vehicle maintained and driven at showroom height, but day to day commuting with high cambered roads, altering/lowering height, load carrying, suspension sag, fitting wide profile tires or curb knock damage – the feature of having “ongoing Camber adjustment” to change tire “contact angle” is essential. Along with front “Caster” to correctly resolve steering pull and improve brake and steering response.
We saw the need therefore to design, manufacture and provide “precise” adjustment (requiring no modifications) - reinstating from the early ‘90’s front kits that not only provide up to “4 times” the adjustment range of the inaccurate “one” offset position fluted bolts (available for front only and offering a minimal 1/8” / 3mm change). . . . but also the bonus of the K-MAC front and rear adjuster kits replacing the 4 highest wearing suspension bushings at the same time!
The patented design allows “precise/accurate” single wrench adjustment – on car (under load direct on alignment rack). No more ongoing trips to Dealers or alignment shops (where a full front and rear alignment is merely adjusting Toe) or constantly changing tire brands – INSTEAD FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME.
Rear kits also providing Camber for the 1st time (and additional rear Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility). Advantage of the K-MAC rear bush design compared to rear adjustable “Camber Arms” is that to resolve premature inner edge tire wear Camber arms need to move “top of tire” outwards, diminishing all important clearance to outer fender – K-MAC moves bottom arms inwards and easier access allowing to be adjusted accurately (on car under load).
C207, A207
Front Camber and Caster #502616 K $480
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) #502226 K $480
Delivery $40 one kit or $50 front and rear kits. We accept PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
Also manufactured for serious adjustment on “Track Days” (up to 3 “extra” degrees). Also easily adjustable Front Replacement Top Strut Mounts (Camber and Caster) - available in Stage 2 (Street / Race) or Stage 3 (Full Race).
Along with a rear bush kit for the 6 multi link arms – providing noticeably improved rear end control- less flex / twitch, especially when applying power lane changing / overtaking.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
how many miles have you driven since you installed the Eibacht springs? and,
has it only been a week with the new springs? if the turnaround has been
relatively short, I might agree with MB on this.
if you brought the new suspension and it hasn't fully settled, then you may not
be satisfied with the resulting tire wear etc as the suspension continues to
settle and then point to the dealer as not having perform the alignment correctly.
alignment is good if the suspension is stable and not undergoing changes.
also, depending the the degree of drop, yes, camber may need to be adjusted
beyond the factory and physical limits possible under OE trim.
has it only been a week with the new springs? if the turnaround has been
relatively short, I might agree with MB on this.
if you brought the new suspension and it hasn't fully settled, then you may not
be satisfied with the resulting tire wear etc as the suspension continues to
settle and then point to the dealer as not having perform the alignment correctly.
alignment is good if the suspension is stable and not undergoing changes.
also, depending the the degree of drop, yes, camber may need to be adjusted
beyond the factory and physical limits possible under OE trim.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've driven around 800miles on it so far. My concern was that if MB screws my alignment up causing pulling they won't fix it or adjust to what it should be mathematically at the new ride height. Even told me that if it pulls, it's not MBs fault it's the tires and they would not correct it. That's like saying a surgeon is replacing a knee, cut the "appropriate" angles in the bone to align the new knee, and having a patient walking incorrectly due to improper alignment of placement, yet blaming the implant instead of the work performed. Once they told me that I refused to allow them to work on my vehicle. It drives perfectly straight with zero pull, I was just wanting them to check alignment and correct camber if necessary. Someone messaged me a shop that stands behind their work so I'm probably going to give them a shot.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
theoretically, I'm thinking the 800 miles of workout (not just highway, but street
use, railroad tracks, inclines etc) should have settled things by now. you didn't
mention if any other parts were replaced such as links, bushings, spring pads
(dunno if your suspension uses these)...all of which have a bearing on the
settling timeline.
makes no sense to be bringing the car in while the changing geometry is still
in flux and then presuming the alignment process was flawed. it's not as if the
suspension will settle the same rate at all four corners at the same pace
use, railroad tracks, inclines etc) should have settled things by now. you didn't
mention if any other parts were replaced such as links, bushings, spring pads
(dunno if your suspension uses these)...all of which have a bearing on the
settling timeline.
makes no sense to be bringing the car in while the changing geometry is still
in flux and then presuming the alignment process was flawed. it's not as if the
suspension will settle the same rate at all four corners at the same pace