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are the cams going to try to pop out when the valve covers come off?
They won't pop out, but they will definitely lift if the timing chain is off of the adjusters when you pull the valve cover. Since you are removing the adjuster it's not a big deal if they come up as you'll have to index (time) them before you put it all back together anyway. The cam holders only are used to keep them in place so you can rotate them with the chain off.
They'll lift about 1/2" to 1" with the cover removed and the chain off.
They won't pop out, but they will definitely lift if the timing chain is off of the adjusters when you pull the valve cover. Since you are removing the adjuster it's not a big deal if they come up as you'll have to index (time) them before you put it all back together anyway. The cam holders only are used to keep them in place so you can rotate them with the chain off.
They'll lift about 1/2" to 1" with the cover removed and the chain off.
so do you recommend taking the tensioner off before the valve cover or after? Also where did you get the adjuster from, Mercedes? How do you keep time after you index, and go to reinstall the valve cover? Will the chain hold it?
not even a difference there. That is the exact sound, and goes away after the same amount of time. Just replaced the chain tensioners. Same sound. What do you guys think? Check valve? Camshaft adjuster?
I have the same issue and notice on Cold start in the morning a high sound for 5 seconds and then disappears. Also the same as your video if i drive it and stop in for 30 min and turn it on again.
In the morning if i turn the key to position 2 before starting the engine, and wait till the needle come back to position. And you start the car, the sound is less exposed and smoother as if the air and oil has been activated...
That would be highly useful to know if you have been able to fix this issue.
so do you recommend taking the tensioner off before the valve cover or after? Also where did you get the adjuster from, Mercedes? How do you keep time after you index, and go to reinstall the valve cover? Will the chain hold it?
If you have the cam tools, I would take the tensioner off AFTER you remove the front cover and valve cover. I ordered all of my parts from Mercedes parts online, they allow you the ability to pick up at your local dealer and the pricing was actually cheaper than 3rd party online sources, and in my case, if I ordered early enough in the day, I could pick up same day.
Once you index the cams again (this is wear you will want the cam tools to hold them) you can put the chain back on, then the tensioner, and they will stay put unless you turn the crank again.
It seems a lot more daunting until you actually get inside...then it's just making sure you have the driver's side cams in spec before you tear into the passenger side. Good luck!
I have the same issue and notice on Cold start in the morning a high sound for 5 seconds and then disappears. Also the same as your video if i drive it and stop in for 30 min and turn it on again.
In the morning if i turn the key to position 2 before starting the engine, and wait till the needle come back to position. And you start the car, the sound is less exposed and smoother as if the air and oil has been activated...
That would be highly useful to know if you have been able to fix this issue.
Thank you
The only way to fix this is to replace the tensioner if it's gotten to the point that it's weak, or to have the updated check valves installed. If you let it go too long with dirty oil or use poor oils it'll get to the point where mine was which was a failed tensioner and adjuster which allowed the timing to jump enough to misfire. Mercedes will want $10k to fix it which is a repair of all four cam adjusters, two tensioners and new timing chains. In addition to all of the seals, bolts, etc.
If you have the cam tools, I would take the tensioner off AFTER you remove the front cover and valve cover. I ordered all of my parts from Mercedes parts online, they allow you the ability to pick up at your local dealer and the pricing was actually cheaper than 3rd party online sources, and in my case, if I ordered early enough in the day, I could pick up same day.
Once you index the cams again (this is wear you will want the cam tools to hold them) you can put the chain back on, then the tensioner, and they will stay put unless you turn the crank again.
It seems a lot more daunting until you actually get inside...then it's just making sure you have the driver's side cams in spec before you tear into the passenger side. Good luck!
thanks seems like I’ll need it. If the dampener is at 40* past tdc I should be fine right? Do I need to remove both valve covers and index both heads or just the side that I’m removing. Also will I be able to physically see that it has failed?
Last edited by Brian Da King; 04-23-2020 at 01:45 PM.
thanks seems like I’ll need it. If the dampener is at 40* past tdc I should be fine right? Do I need to remove both valve covers and index both heads or just the side that I’m removing. Also will I be able to physically see that it has failed?
Yep 40*. There should be a marking.
You only have to remove the passenger side if that's where the noise is coming from. It's rare that the driver's side is affected like this.
Once you index at 40* pull the driver side intake cam sensor out, if you see half of the cam adjuster lobe in the window, you're at 40* after TDC on that side and the passenger side won't matter. I always rotate it 360* again just to make sure it falls in that window again.
Depending on what is wrong, you might see something. My tensioner was totally collapsed and the chain was loose. If you remove the front cam cover (and don't remove the tensioner) and rotate the engine, you'll see if your adjuster is bad. It will jump when it rotates, which is where the rattle noise comes from. A good adjuster will not.
You only have to remove the passenger side if that's where the noise is coming from. It's rare that the driver's side is affected like this.
Once you index at 40* pull the driver side intake cam sensor out, if you see half of the cam adjuster lobe in the window, you're at 40* after TDC on that side and the passenger side won't matter. I always rotate it 360* again just to make sure it falls in that window again.
Depending on what is wrong, you might see something. My tensioner was totally collapsed and the chain was loose. If you remove the front cam cover (and don't remove the tensioner) and rotate the engine, you'll see if your adjuster is bad. It will jump when it rotates, which is where the rattle noise comes from. A good adjuster will not.
Yea rotated the engine by hand and watched it jump through the window, it also was squirting oil out the front of the adjuster. Is the sealant for the valve cover the same as the timing cover sealant? Thanks for all your help, I really do appreciate it.
Yea rotated the engine by hand and watched it jump through the window, it also was squirting oil out the front of the adjuster. Is the sealant for the valve cover the same as the timing cover sealant? Thanks for all your help, I really do appreciate it.
Sealants are the same. No problem! I remember when I searched the internet for help on this...there is next to no data so I just jumped in with what I could find, so I am more than happy to help out so others can find at least ONE resource.
The only way to fix this is to replace the tensioner if it's gotten to the point that it's weak, or to have the updated check valves installed. If you let it go too long with dirty oil or use poor oils it'll get to the point where mine was which was a failed tensioner and adjuster which allowed the timing to jump enough to misfire. Mercedes will want $10k to fix it which is a repair of all four cam adjusters, two tensioners and new timing chains. In addition to all of the seals, bolts, etc.
Sound is still here at cold start and also strange noise like the video when warm and parked for like 30 minutes and start again, i am doing the left intake adjuster next week.
I did the same procedure and still hears a noise after sitting down for 30 mins, would that be a cam adjuster?
100%. Only other cause of this specific rattle.
Followup, I am the OP and I have since sold my E350 3-4 months ago. Bought my loaded 2013 E550 coupe from Carmax with the same rattle. Under warranty, it was taken to Mercedes and replaced the tensioners and check valves, per the service bulletin. Sound is gone! So thankful it didn't need cam adjusters.
It's quite insane how this tiny rattle can become such a nightmare on tons of Mercedes.
Yes it is, mine was throwing P0346 Bank B sensor A my mechanic when he changed the tensioner told me that the left adjuster spit some oil and needed to be changed. It will be done next week and I will keep you updated, but he was very sure that it was it.
Originally Posted by DennisW212
I did the same procedure and still hears a noise after sitting down for 30 mins, would that be a cam adjuster?
It's the adjuster...it's ALWAYS the adjuster. Unfortunately you need to do all of the 'fixes' anyway. Upgrade the check valve, replace the tensioner, and the intake cam adjusters. Once you hear the sound, the adjuster has already wear spot internally where the pin locks the adjuster in place during advance. If it isn't too far gone, when the adjuster has enough oil pressure it will quiet down so you don't hear it inside the car, eventually no amount of oil pressure will help the adjuster and it will fail to the point mine got to which is jumping a tooth.
This is a pain in the a$$ and Mercedes should be proactive, but they aren't. If you go the dealer route for an out of warranty repair, this is a $10K min quote, they do all four adjusters, two tensioners and the check valves and likely, will want to R&R the chains. If you do this yourself, it's (these are rounded up avg costs):
$700 X 2 Intake Adjusters
$80 X 2 Tensioners
$80 Cam tool kit
$50 in one use bolts
$150 in intake seals
$30 Check Valves
$20 Valve cover/Cam cover sealant
I have fixed the problem today by changing the adjusted left for the exhaust. P0346 code...
It was a long job but all is done and fixed. I have posted some pictures..
Originally Posted by Georges Saadé
Just made the tensioner and Check valve.
Will inform if things have changed
Hello guys,
Sound is still here at cold start and also strange noise like the video when warm and parked for like 30 minutes and start again, i am doing the left intake adjuster next week.
I hate seeing that. In my experience it'r rarely the driver's side. I hope when you switch out the passenger side intake adjuster, it clears up for you.
The car is a left drive and the problem was from the left side.
No more rattle and even with warm startup no more sound.
Originally Posted by Ubercarfan
I hate seeing that. In my experience it'r rarely the driver's side. I hope when you switch out the passenger side intake adjuster, it clears up for you.
It's the adjuster...it's ALWAYS the adjuster. Unfortunately you need to do all of the 'fixes' anyway. Upgrade the check valve, replace the tensioner, and the intake cam adjusters. Once you hear the sound, the adjuster has already wear spot internally where the pin locks the adjuster in place during advance. If it isn't too far gone, when the adjuster has enough oil pressure it will quiet down so you don't hear it inside the car, eventually no amount of oil pressure will help the adjuster and it will fail to the point mine got to which is jumping a tooth.
This is a pain in the a$$ and Mercedes should be proactive, but they aren't. If you go the dealer route for an out of warranty repair, this is a $10K min quote, they do all four adjusters, two tensioners and the check valves and likely, will want to R&R the chains. If you do this yourself, it's (these are rounded up avg costs):
$700 X 2 Intake Adjusters
$80 X 2 Tensioners
$80 Cam tool kit
$50 in one use bolts
$150 in intake seals
$30 Check Valves
$20 Valve cover/Cam cover sealant
It's a big job time wise, 8 hours.
Wow ill be doing this very soon my part number according to the parts dept from the dealer are A276 050 3600 left intake and A276 050 3700 and they will cost me 1800 bucks Wow! there are ebay ones that's cheap but that's a big gamble there. I was wondering if any other good after market OEM made Adjuster that doesn't cost arm and a leg
The car is a left drive and the problem was from the left side.
No more rattle and even with warm startup no more sound.
So happy to see you did it! It really light up many owners suffered from this issue.
Some questions hoping to get your comments, not sure if they are related though.
1.The throttle is sluggish during city drive. For example driving up a ramp at about 60km, I press the gas pedal the car barely accelerate or downshift untill I almost floor the gas it then downshifts and accelerates.
2.city gas mileage is really poor than before. But pretty good on highway.
3.even though rattle every start, I got no engine code, kind of weird. I once shorted the alternator positive stud and chasis, not sure if that blown the ECU.
So happy to see you did it! It really light up many owners suffered from this issue.
Some questions hoping to get your comments, not sure if they are related though.
1.The throttle is sluggish during city drive. For example driving up a ramp at about 60km, I press the gas pedal the car barely accelerate or downshift untill I almost floor the gas it then downshifts and accelerates.
2.city gas mileage is really poor than before. But pretty good on highway.
3.even though rattle every start, I got no engine code, kind of weird. I once shorted the alternator positive stud and chasis, not sure if that blown the ECU.
Thank you,. Well.regarding your issue, I would start with a fuel filter, a bad fuel filter can damage the fuel pump.
How is the startup of the car?
Try also to.clean your airfilter.
Try to reset the transmission, there is many video on google that shows how to do while car is stopped it's easy and can be done by yourself.
Also by checking OBD2 you might have some codes if you have a bad AirMass.
thanks for the input. please find my reply to your questions.
Originally Posted by Georges Saadé
Thank you,. Well.regarding your issue, I would start with a fuel filter, a bad fuel filter can damage the fuel pump.
How is the startup of the car? The startup is not bad, longer than before though especially in winter. (I have brand new AGV battery)
Try also to.clean your airfilter. The airfilter is just less than 10,000 KM.
Try to reset the transmission, there is many video on google that shows how to do while car is stopped it's easy and can be done by yourself. I tried resetting the transmission couple of times, no help.
Also by checking OBD2 you might have some codes if you have a bad AirMass. I scanned the ECU today, got one permanent code P0111 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance Bank1). The second code is a random code because I found nothing wrong lated to it and t comes and goes itself. On my engine 276.957 there is no AirMass sensor , but intake air temperature sensor + intake air pressure sensor.
can you share the method to disassemble the adjuster, what tools will needed? Mine is the driver side intake adjuster failed. I searched around everywhere online, rarely anything can be helpful.
Well, then manage to.change the temperature sensor , it is located near the airfilter and not very expensive.
Please let me know when you have done this.
Hopefully it will.fix you issue.
Thanks for the quick reply Georges. This is the weird part now - I DID replace the sensor with a new one a week ago , but it does not help. If I check the readings from the sensor, it DOES gives the correct temperature readings. If my memory serves me right, the error I got from last time scan is the P0113 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1). I'm really lost now.
04-20-2020, 02:47 PM
