My key is not springing back after starting and the starter will continue to crank. I can use my second key VERY carefully and it works. Do I need just a key and tumbler; or key, tumbler and ignition switch? Can I WD40 this thing? Does anyone know how to remove the ignition switch? Any advice is welcome. Car is a 1983 240D 348K miles.

 

My ignition switch WAS the problem. Then it was one OF the problems. The key almost refused to turn, so I shot some PB Blaster in the keyhole and when I tried to turn it; nothing. Slapped the second key in, it caught for a second, then turned. Drove her home and neither key would do anything. I had a new tumbler and keys and ignition switch arriving the next day, so I set to work using Diesel Giant's page as a guide to remove it. Finally got the assembly out, but to remove the wiring harness and tumbler, you have to turn the friggin KEY! There is lock that runs through the whole thing that secures the ignition switch wiring harness to the back that frees up when you turn the key to posistion 2, which is between the 1st and 2nd marks on the black ring. That is also where you insert a paper clip to hold down the mechanism that prevents the black ring from unscrewing. And use a SMALL paper clip. I tried for a looonnng time to get a heavy-duty paper clip in.It will go through the hole, but is too big to get in the hole on the side of the tumbler that unlocks the the black ring. Also remember to disconnect the battery posts so you don't accidentally start the engine and have oil shooting out the pressure gauge line, but I get ahead. Had my friend come over with a reciprocating sander. We put blue painters tape on the head, set it on the floor with the ignition housing assembly on top of it and vibrated the crap out of it. I applied slight pressure to the key, and when my hands were just about numb, the dang key turned. Then, after the whole fountain of oil incident, we had to do it again. Got the new parts put in and found that "posistion 2" on the ignition is a spot where the key clicks into place, there is no mark on the black ring. My switch was so worn out I could not feel it. The new ignition switch does not have the piece that locks the wiring harness into place, but it butts up against the airvent, so hopefully it won't fall out. The parts are very cheap at Autohaus, do this while you can still turn your key, or you will be SO screwed.

 

I replaced mine when the key would not turn. In my case it was due to the ignition lock mechanism being worn completely out and gunked from years of oiling.

If you have the misfortune of this situation, you can pull out the key and core (if the hardened metal security piece is out) and then actuate the starter / unlock the column with a large pair of needle nose pliers. This will unlock it and you can pull the whole assembly. Replace the ignition switch behind it while you are there and you won't have to worry about either for about 30 years.

 

What ever you do the key must be turned to key 1 before you take out the barrel by using the two wires to take it out.

If you do not have the key turned to 1,,the steering lock can fire and you will never release it