Hey people, I'm going to purchase 300E from a guy who has worked on my families benz's for a while now. I recently owned a VW Corrado VR6 (loved that car) only problem is i flipped it in the ditch. (long story short I shouldn't have been driving around that turn with the tires i had they were pretty much bald) Anyways, the 300 is tan interior and outside with a scratch were the former owner rubbed against a poll. I cant wait to get it, and am really looking forward to driving it around. I have aquestion though. What are the usual problems that i am going to see with this car, and will the AMG monoblock rims 18" fit without a problem? (it has over 220,000 miles on it) The engine runs strong besides the fact that it was sitting for a year befor i wanted to buy it. I'm hopefully going to be working on any of these problems myself just cus i got used to doing that with my corrado, and its cheaper haha. Thanks in advance

 

welcome aboard 300. as for ur rims question look at my post titled what do u think, im sure it will answer ur questions. later man good luck with that scratch i cringed when i read that.

 

I'll make it easier on you so you don't have to search around.

AMG Monoblock wheels will fit in the 18" size. The real question is the width and offset. 18 x 8 and 18 x 7.5 will fit perfectly on your car. Search the forums and you will find a lot of information about puttuing wheels on the W124.

hehe...my former owner rubbed against a pole too at the gas station. As far as common problems you'll see...it's mostly all age related since our cars are about if not over 15 years old.

Driveshaft flex disks - Expect the front ones to last about 80-100K miles and the backs to last at least 150K miles. First symptom is clunking sound while coasting to a stop. Center bearing supports can wear out, causing droning vibrations at cruising speeds.


Climate Controls - Most climate control systems (ACC) on MBs do not seem to be as long-lived as the counterpart American systems. Don’t know why, but since most Mercedes systems are automatic, an extra layer of complexity has been added to the mix. ACC systems seem to need service at least every 50K miles. A/C parts that tend to wear out are: Compressors, Pushbutton Control Units and control relays. Non-operating aux fan can cause compressor failure. In most cases, just a coolant recharge is all that is needed. Many of the flaps controlling venting are activated by vacuum elements that tend to develop leaks at about 150K to 200K miles. Blower motors typically last about 150K miles. The brushes wear out and the first symptom is intermittent operation. Squealing is caused by the bearings in need of lubrication – use ATF.


Shocks/Struts - They tend to be more robust and last much longer than people expect, which may lead to unnecessary replacements. Expect to get at least 125K miles or more out of a set of shocks and struts.


Gas Engines - Expect to replace the valve seals at 125-150K miles on gas engines. First symptom is increased oil use. Head jobs are typical at 180-200K miles. Bottom ends should last at least 250K miles as long as oil is changed regularly. Expect oil leak problems on the 190E 2.6/300E/E320 engine at the head gasket, front timing cover and valve cover gasket. Timing chains and tensioners (and maybe rails) should be replaced at 100K miles. Owners of 91 or older 4.2 liter V-8s should especially heed this advice or your engine could be trashed. Big $$$$


Diesels Engines - Most of the Mercedes diesels are very robust and do not require much internal service for 250K miles. Timing chain “stretch” should be monitored and changed if beyond 4 degrees retarded. Chains generally are shorter and last longer in diesels. Expect a set of injectors to last at least 100K miles and glow plugs typically last 75K miles. Older diesels (in 123s) require valve adjustments every 15K miles. Vacuum pumps last 125-150K miles. Failures in certain 123 vacuum pumps can result in oil being sucked into ALL the vacuum lines. $$$$ to clean and replace all the lines.


Exhaust Systems - Tend to be more robust (and heavy!). Expect 100K miles at least. Keep the engine in tune and get longer life from the catalytic converter and the muffler. Rust is usually the culprit for failures.


Bushings - 150K miles is a good estimate. The rubber just gets hard or shrinks, resulting in excessive vibrations, squeaks, and harshness. This is one of the most neglected service items and yet it plays such a pivotal role in ride comfort.


Cruise Control (CC) - Is there anyone who has owned a Mercedes at least 5 years who has NOT had CC problems? Typically it is the amplifier under the dash that causes the most problems. The servo and the stalk switch can also cause problems. The amplifier tends to have solder joint cracks that cause intermittent operation, the typical first symptom of trouble. Make sure all linkages at the engine are cleaned and lubed with transmission fluid. There are testers that can quickly diagnose CC problems.


Motor Mounts - Typically last about 100K miles. First symptom is excessive vibration at idle. Mounts for diesels typically last less than their gas counterparts.


Hydraulic Suspensions - Nitrogen cells last about 75-100K miles. First symptom is very hard ride because hydraulic fluid permeates the nitrogen gas cells. Most other parts are robust, but make sure fluid is drained and filled at recommended intervals. Use only MB fluid. Older air suspension systems have characteristic sag as a first symptom and can be very expensive to maintain. 2000 S-Class? Too early to tell.


Airbags - There may be a sticker on your car that says to replace the airbag after 10 years. The change interval has been extended. Check with Dealer if unsure. NOT a DIY item.


Transmissions - B2 piston failure causes no forward gears but reverse works. Overhaul is usually not required in this case. Most transmissions last 150K miles or more. Some transmissions will go 250-300K miles without problems, assuming regular fluid/filter changes. 722.2/3 transmission flairing/hard shifts can be a misadjusted Bowden cable, vacuum modulator leakage or modulator out of adjustment. Long delays in engaging reverse can signal an overhaul is due, but if all else is OK, drive it until it fails.

Fuel Pumps/Fuel Pump Relays - The relays typically last about 100K miles. Carry a spare. Easy to replace. Fuel Pumps often last the life of the car. Fairly expensive but not hard to replace.

Wheel Bearings - Not unusual to last life of the car if re-packed at 90,000-mile interval. Make sure grease levels are strictly maintained and runout is within specs. Don’t mix greases.

Brakes - Pad wear is too dependent on driving style. Fronts can last from 10K-60K miles.

Rear pads can last 30-70K miles. Front rotors last about 50K miles. Backs last longer. Do not have them turned; replace them. Original equipment is highly recommended. ABS systems are fairly robust, with exception of the sensors/wires at the hubs. First symptom is ABS activating when wheels aren’t sliding.


Cooling Systems - Plastic radiators crack at upper hose mount. Usually last only about 75K miles. All-metal radiators can last 100-150K miles. Fan clutches last about 100K miles. Water pumps last about 100K miles too. Thermostats last about 40-50K miles.


Electrical - Alternators last indefinitely but regulator brushes should be changed at about 100K miles. Bearings cause squeal. Regulators can fail but are cheap and easy to replace.

Fuses tend to corrode over time. Clean and or replace all fuses at regular intervals to prevent intermittent operation of electrical devices. Make sure battery posts and grounds are clean and connections are tight.

Do you plan on adding any mods?

 

wow u went buck chris haha

 

lol

 

Thanks again everyone.

About the monoblocks again where is the best, aka cheapest, place to find them in good condition, and is there a good place to get some performance parts for these cars? I have been lookin around for some but cant seem to find any

thanks