NorCal124

I was working on my car today and found that this wasn't connected. One side had electrical tape covering it to prevent it from connecting to the other side. This is the first time I've seen this since I've owned the car. I went ahead and connected it and test drove the car. I didn't notice any difference. Could someone help me find out what this is, it's going to annoy me for a while if I don't.

YNVDIZW124

there is sumthing wrong with your ABS because that should have set off the ABS light since it's the connection for the ABS sensor. Also you have not felt anything wierd with your breaks?

NorCal124

nope, nothing wrong w/ the brakes

CDP

I'm curious about my engine bay - Does anyone know why there are lines that go from my Coolant tank to my Windshield washer Resevoir? My friend and I tried to remove the windshield fluid tank all together since I don't use it and when we removed the lines we found out that it's connected to the coolant and had coolant spray all over the place. I'm kind of curious because I never knew our set up was like that.

Legoinsaniac

If you look into the washer fluid tank, there is coiled tubing that goes down the center. This runs coolant into the tank to act as a way to heat up the washer fluid, so as to remove light ice on the windshield. That's the only reason coolant is run into the washer fluid tank.


Upon looking at Norcal's engine compartment, it looks like his washer fluid tank does not have the coolant lines running into it. Maybe this was an option, or only for later model cars?

CDP

Makes good enough sense - I suppose I'll completely remove it one of these days ... I wonder how I would completely clamp the hose that runs to the washer tank or is there something I can buy from the old model W124's that will delete this.

NorCal124

Quit hijacking the thread Chris unless you know what that part is. Haha.

CDP

hahaha I can't help it!

bamberger_1

That'ws what you think. There is of corse something wrong with you brakes. Either someone diconnected the warning light or the ABS controller is gone. The cable you pulled is the sensor (passenger side) which sends the speed signal to the controller which compares to the the other side and the rear count to give ABS the a go or no go to react. Just pull the plug and try to force your car for a n ABS braking. My gues there will no such thing happening, rather then blocked wheels.

YNVDIZW124

My ABS system has bad wires going to the sensor when i drive around 10mph the abs is working like it should but above that my ABS lights come on and the ABS disengages and acts like there was no ABS. I think that's why feel there is nothing wrong with your brakes. I have the ABS sensor to replace it im just lazy....but when i stop i just pump the brakes. It does look like someone took out the ABS light after they disconnected that. Trust me if you break hard enough your wheels are going to lock.

NorCal124

I did some series of really hard braking with the sensor connected and I didn't get any ABS lights coming on. No wheel locks either. This is starting to concern me. If the ghetto *** mechanic that jerry rigged this before I owned this disconnected it could he just have been doing so to avoid replacing an ABS sensor?

NorCal124

Anyone else have info?

Bigpete123

So how exactly did you conduct your braking test? I.E. at what speeds?

If you get going fast enough and absolutely slam on your brakes, you can usually tell if the abs is working (i.e. a rapid vibration feeling). Did you get that in your tests?

The safest and easiest way to test out your ABS without destroying your tires on pavement is to find an empty gravel parking lot, go 20 MPH, and slam on the brakes. As a courtesy, you should kick the gravel back over your skid marks after your little test. The shuddering of the ABS should be apparent.

I'm hardly a mechanic, but if your ABS works, it works. If you're really worried, it's worth taking it to the shop to have it checked out. Your safety is very important!!

shadowgriffen

have you ever replaced your pads? If so did you replace the sensors? they are, or rather should be, on your front pads.

mhorn

Are you referring to the wear sensors on the brake pads? To my knowlwedge a routine brake pad replacement doesn't involve any ABS sensors.

neanderthal

bigpete nailed it.

you have to test your ABS functionality on surfaces that will allow your wheels to lock up, low traction surfaces like a wet road or a gravel road. on high traction surfaces like a normal road your ABS may not kick in as long as your wheels arent close to locking up.

if you test it on a dirt road, locked up tires should produce obvious results.