W124
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
W124
Hi to all out there,
Needs help with my 1993 W124 280E.The engine stall frequently when I slow down and stepping on the brakes.It can be restart immediately.It getting to be a big risk to me as it's so unpredictable.Have sent the car to various workshops without much sucess.Any simillar experinces and how to rectify it will be much appreciated.Thanks
Needs help with my 1993 W124 280E.The engine stall frequently when I slow down and stepping on the brakes.It can be restart immediately.It getting to be a big risk to me as it's so unpredictable.Have sent the car to various workshops without much sucess.Any simillar experinces and how to rectify it will be much appreciated.Thanks
Last edited by Stoney eye; Nov 14, 2006 at 07:53 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 117
Likes: 1
300CE 24V Sportline 1991
Engine stalls under braking
Hello,
I have had this problem since 1998 when I bought the car. It usually stalls when:
At slow speed under braking
When turning left or right at same time as braking
The problem is usually worse as the weather gets warmer. It usually stalls once every 3 - 6 months but, during some hot weather this year, it stalled 3 times in one afternoon. That was at the same time as I was having fuel delivery problems that are now solved by installing a new EHA (on the fule distributor).
During this summer I also installed a different ICV (Idle Control Valve). Things seem better but I haven't driven much recently so "who knows?"
I aslo changed the OV relay for one that was installed in an '97 300 TE 4-Matic. This "new" one had 2 fuses on top indicating that it was not the original part.
Anyone with other comments on this?
Hope my comments help someone.
All the best.
RayH
I have had this problem since 1998 when I bought the car. It usually stalls when:
At slow speed under braking
When turning left or right at same time as braking
The problem is usually worse as the weather gets warmer. It usually stalls once every 3 - 6 months but, during some hot weather this year, it stalled 3 times in one afternoon. That was at the same time as I was having fuel delivery problems that are now solved by installing a new EHA (on the fule distributor).
During this summer I also installed a different ICV (Idle Control Valve). Things seem better but I haven't driven much recently so "who knows?"
I aslo changed the OV relay for one that was installed in an '97 300 TE 4-Matic. This "new" one had 2 fuses on top indicating that it was not the original part.
Anyone with other comments on this?
Hope my comments help someone.
All the best.
RayH
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,062
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Dora the Explorer
Hi to all out there,
Needs help with my 1993 W124 280E.The engine stall frequently when I slow down and stepping on the brakes.It can be restart immediately.It getting to be a big risk to me as it's so unpredictable.Have sent the car to various workshops without much sucess.Any simillar experinces and how to rectify it will be much appreciated.Thanks
Needs help with my 1993 W124 280E.The engine stall frequently when I slow down and stepping on the brakes.It can be restart immediately.It getting to be a big risk to me as it's so unpredictable.Have sent the car to various workshops without much sucess.Any simillar experinces and how to rectify it will be much appreciated.Thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,062
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Dora the Explorer
Hello,
I have had this problem since 1998 when I bought the car. It usually stalls when:
At slow speed under braking
When turning left or right at same time as braking
The problem is usually worse as the weather gets warmer. It usually stalls once every 3 - 6 months but, during some hot weather this year, it stalled 3 times in one afternoon. That was at the same time as I was having fuel delivery problems that are now solved by installing a new EHA (on the fule distributor).
During this summer I also installed a different ICV (Idle Control Valve). Things seem better but I haven't driven much recently so "who knows?"
I aslo changed the OV relay for one that was installed in an '97 300 TE 4-Matic. This "new" one had 2 fuses on top indicating that it was not the original part.
Anyone with other comments on this?
Hope my comments help someone.
All the best.
RayH
I have had this problem since 1998 when I bought the car. It usually stalls when:
At slow speed under braking
When turning left or right at same time as braking
The problem is usually worse as the weather gets warmer. It usually stalls once every 3 - 6 months but, during some hot weather this year, it stalled 3 times in one afternoon. That was at the same time as I was having fuel delivery problems that are now solved by installing a new EHA (on the fule distributor).
During this summer I also installed a different ICV (Idle Control Valve). Things seem better but I haven't driven much recently so "who knows?"
I aslo changed the OV relay for one that was installed in an '97 300 TE 4-Matic. This "new" one had 2 fuses on top indicating that it was not the original part.
Anyone with other comments on this?
Hope my comments help someone.
All the best.
RayH
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
w210 e240
replace your engine coolant temp sensor since its giving a high temp signal to ecu causing your eha to lean fuel delivery
on my e300-24v 104 engine i have a bad ect which measures 220 ohms at 80 degrees c (normal range is 290 to 370 ohms). 220 ohms is sending signal that the temp is 90deg.
change bad ect or
do a modification like my set-up by adding a adjustable resistor that will add 80 to 100 ohms so that 220 ohms will become 320 ohms increasing the idle and fuel delivery and will boost performance and corrects sluggish acceleration
your old eha probably needs adjustment and need not replaced
materials needed: wire routed to dash, variable resistor(4K ohms or smaller)
ECT wire to ecu is the green with redline wire
on my e300-24v 104 engine i have a bad ect which measures 220 ohms at 80 degrees c (normal range is 290 to 370 ohms). 220 ohms is sending signal that the temp is 90deg.
change bad ect or
do a modification like my set-up by adding a adjustable resistor that will add 80 to 100 ohms so that 220 ohms will become 320 ohms increasing the idle and fuel delivery and will boost performance and corrects sluggish acceleration
your old eha probably needs adjustment and need not replaced
materials needed: wire routed to dash, variable resistor(4K ohms or smaller)
ECT wire to ecu is the green with redline wire
